Wiring a 'test track' with a TIU and A 180w Powerhouse

The fuses in the TIU are 20 amp, which is more than should be passed through it.  Suggested practice, even with a modern transformer, is to install a breaker or fuse not greater than 10 amp in the feed to each TIU input.  Lesser ampacities are preferable if your trains don't need the power.

Sam,

Would it be advisable to wire the 180 directly to the track and hook the TIU to the track passively?

You could most certainly do this. However, tou would not be able to do so with a Variable channel in variable mode, and you would not be able to use the E-Stop button on the remote.

Would that prevent a momentary short circuit from passing through the TUI or am I misunderstanding this?

Yes, it would.

The simplest for me would probably add a twin banana plug and connect to power 1 in and then to the track as the Z1000 was wired. Is the circuit breaker in the 180 brink adequate to keep the TIU fuses protected?

Which way would be preferable please?

I've got the dcs TIU wired with a ph 180. I'm no expert, but when I had a derailment, that breaker in the 180 tripped before I could hit the E-stop on the dcs handheld. Those bricks are great....no blown fuse.

(I have the 180 going into the aux 1 input with jumpers to the fixed input 1 to power the TIU)

The PowerHouse 180 has the best circuit breaker of any of the common transformers, at least any that I've seen.  It's an electronic breaker that will open in a few milliseconds on an overload, basically the reaction time of the internal relay.  I use them with the TIU, and we use them at the modular club with the TIU.  Many breaker trips, no TIU fuses were ever harmed in the incidents.   OTOH, I've seen more than one Z1000 brick take out the fuse in the TIU and not trip it's internal breaker.

Sounds as if I'm good to wire the 180 THROUGH the TIU rather than direct to the track with the TIU in 'passive' position then?

It works fine for me.  There are very few circuit breaker options that are better than offered on the PH180, so if it's ever going to control power, the PH180 is one of the best choices for powering it.  If you're really worried, stick a 10A fuse in series with the input power feeds, but I haven't seen that as necessary.

I don't see any problem with the PH180 for running a layout.

But I recommend using a transformer with amp meters and handles for rolling up the voltage slowly on a TEST TRACK. It can possibly save the electronics on your engine by watching the amp meter as you roll up the volts. If they approach 2 amps you have a problem with a short and it can be caught before any damage is done. I saved a replacement board on a GG1 with a roller insulator installed wrong that blew the original board. Otherwise, the replacement board would have been toast also.

All you need to do is pinch a wire when replacing the shell or some other problem and poof, the board is done when you instantly apply 18 volts.

I am with all the others here about the PH-180's, they have excellent breakers, extremely fast. Excellent protection for your trains and the electronic equipment used with them. 

c. Sam,

   gunrunner john is correct this particular PH180 has the best most sencitive breaker

of just about anything on the market, however I still recommend using the Scott type 10 Amp breakers in front of every power supply to ultimately safe guard your TIU.  Easy to install, easy to reset and they protect your DCS TIU.

PCRR/Dave

Several fellas have mentioned the Scott 10a breakers - where do we get them please?

Train Electrics LLC

cSam,

   Scotts Odds & Ends was bought out by Train Electrics LLC, Rob is absolutley correct, you can purchase the 10 Amp breaker banks from them, shipped right to your door.

They are the only breaker banks I use on my layouts, sensitive and dependable 10 Amp breakers, that seem not be able to be worn out.

PCRR/Dave

cSam you can see the Scott 10 Amp breaker 4 bank, in front of my Transformers in the picture below.