Wiring for new layout

What track are you using?  I only have two main lines and on yard.  I wired one complete loop and the yard track to one side and the inner loop to the other side of the Z4000 and use a Z1000 to power the switches and accessories.  My loops are one scale mile if that helps.  I used fastrack and put a drop in every forth track section.  I ran all the drops into three terminal blocks and connected each block together and connected the block to the TIU.  I have 10's all the way around and can run three trains on one track.

I'm using Atlas track. 

Mike,

1) Should power be constant to the sidings, spurs and yard tracks ?

Yes.

2) Should the power to them be controlled by toggle switches ?

Yes.

3) Should I use isolated rail joiners.  

Yes, in the center rail between blocks.

4) Should I use a separate power supply for them. 

Only if you want to do so. That's more dependent on overall power requirements and personal preference. Regardless, if you use multiple transformers, ensure that they're in phase with respect to each other and then comment together one Common wire of each transformer.

5) I plan on using the 4th handle on my ZW-L to power the 22 Ross switches. Or, should I use the 4th handle on the ZW-L for the sidings/spurs.

I'd use it for the sidings and spurs.

6) I'm using a separate power supply for the TIU.  

Good!

This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

Barry,

What type of power supply should I use for the Ross switches if the 4th handle is used for the sidings/spurs ?  Should it have variable voltage capability ? 

Mike   

1) I have my spurs and sidings switched, I would recommend that so you can turn off power to your MTH engines (and others).

2) I used toggle switches (10 amp from Digi-Key).

3) My layout is wired per the DCS O Gauge Companion, in blocks using isolated joiners in the center rail and the MTH terminal blocks feeding the blocks. Very similar to what jmiller320 described above. I also have 10's on my DCS system. However, my layout is only 6'x16, hoping to expand in near the future.

4) If you this one is about the toggle switches, I used track power from the track the siding was connected to, through the terminal block to the switch and out to the isolated siding or spur.

5) I have Atlas switches and they are currently powered from one of my PH-180's that is powering a loop of track. The plan is to have another power supply for those eventually, but I don't have one for them yet.

6) That is a good idea, I am using a Z-500 from an MTH ready to run set for my TIU power.

For my Atlas track power connections I used a method shown by Ingeniero No1 in his build thread. It's easy, works great and can be easily changed if need be. Here is a link to his method: Hidden Pass RR Build thread He also has some other great tips for using Atlas track. This thread has helped me a lot and so has Ingeniero No1. He also has some very nice switch position indicators for Atlas and Ross switches.

Mike:

In addition to your list since you are using Ross turnouts I assume you are using DZ-1000/2500 switch machines. In this case you may want to consider a non-derail feature for the turnouts. In the case of Ross turnouts the non-derail feature is very easy to set up and needs no added electronics. Simply isolate one outer rail (Gnd) on the track entering the turnout. Attach a wire from that rail to the appropriate switch wire (straight or curve) depending on which side you come in - you can do this for both the straight and curve sides of the turnout.

Joe

Joe, thanks for the advice on non-derailing.  When laying my Atlas track and Ross switches I plan on using drops before and after the switch.  Should I use non-isolated center joiners on all 3 track sections of the switch or should any of the 3 require isolated joiners ? 

Mike

Mike: If I understand what you are asking

The non-derail track (I use a short section of Ross or Gargraves track explained below) should be placed on the two exit sides of the turnout (the curve side and the straight side). You don't need a non-derail on the entry track since the train won't derail - it will either go straight or into the curve. 

You want insulator pins on both ends of the isolated rail only on each non-derail track. The other two rails take metal pins. With a wire connected from that rail to the appropriate yellow or green turnout switch machine once a wheel set crosses onto the non-derail track the wheels will complete a ground connection signaling the switch machine to change the the turnout position if needed.

Regardless of non-derail or not I use short 3 inch sections of Ross or Gargraves track to connect Atlas O track to all sides of a Ross turnout for a couple of reasons. One -because their tubular structure makes it easier to solder wires to the bottom of those I am using for non-derail than for solid track like Atlas O. Two - to connect Atlas O to Ross turnout/track I use Atlas terminal joiners which means I either have to cut into the Ross tie bar to make room for the terminal joiner or in the case of Gargraves file down the underside of the track to flatten it for the joiner. I rather do this on 3 inch sections than cut into the Ross turnout itself especially if I plan on selling the turnout down the road or I screw up the cut.

Just in case I misunderstood you - the center rails of all track on all sides of the turnout always takes metal pins unless you want to deliberately isolate one block of track from another. Example the turnout curves into a siding you want to turn power on/off independent of the main line. Or if you are transitioning from one power block into another - say an inner main line to an outer main line each main line having its own power supply. In this case you will want to place an insulator pin in the middle power rail of the track separating one block from the other. On my layout I will have two independent main lines. I want to be able to run command control on one while at the same time run conventional control on the other if I desire. This means I need to electrically isolate the two lines at all points where they intersect. I have two separate power supplies (phased properly since there is a common ground) to achieve this effect.

Joe