Your opinion: Work with DCS Commander or get 50-1001 now?

There's no reason to expect that the full DCS systems will suddenly disappear, so I'd wait until you need it.

Dave,

Some things to consider:

• Other may disagree, however, the DCS Commander is a a poor choice for operating O gauge engines under DCS. It lacks full-DCS functionality and it lacks a walk-around throttle
• The DCS Commander is intended for DCS operation of MTH's HO engines. It's underpowered for O gauge with a maximum of 6 amps draw
• It only provides one DCS output which limits its use to very modest-sized layouts
• I would encourage you not to purchase any DCS components on eBay or other than from an authorized MTH dealer, of which there are plenty from which to choose. Purchase new units only, that come with a warrantee, since you really cannot repair a TIU or a remote yourself
• Consider buying a Rev. L TIU and remote now. The very earliest that you'll possibly see a new TIU is 2015, and a new remote isn't even being planned at present. MTH is going to wait until the DCS app is available before considering if a new remote is even needed.

(Comments to each topic in red)

I started out a couple years ago by getting 2 MTH starter sets and the full DCS system for a temporary layout. Have been happy with that choice. They had to order my DCS system so I used the remote commander that came with the sets for a while. Was really happy when the full DCS system arrived, switched immediately.

Also, I think buying new is the way to go. Personally I have not had good luck with the very few purchases of used items I have made. Never purchased any electronic stuff used or w/o manufacturer's warranty and don't intend to start. Lots of others have purchased used and had good luck, just not for me.

As far as waiting to purchase DCS, I did that with Legacy. When I finally got around to ordering one (Sept. 2013) they were no where to be found and the price had gone up $50. I'm still waiting. Rumor has it they may be near!  I have no idea about DCS pricing or availability right now, that's just what happened to me with Legacy.

If you can find it (and that may not be easy), I would recommend buying the full DCS system, and I would definitely recommend buying it new from an established MTH dealer--preferably one near you, if possible--so you can get assistance and service, if needed.

A good percentage of my motive power is MTH, and I have two of the full DCS systems--one for my regular O gauge layout and the second for my all-tinplate (MTH/LCT) layout in another room.  Both have performed well over a long time.

Dave R,

   I do believe Bill & Walts in White Oak, Pa has a newer DCS in stock, purchase it from Dave at Bill & Walts, get the MTH dealer guarantees, and if it needs to have the very latest revisions intalled, send it to GGG here on the OGR, and have it up graded to the very latest revision.  IMO the full DCS is the only way to go, I purchased my DCS long ago and have been fully satisfied with it. 

PCRR/Dave

You should be able to upgrade to 4.20 yourself, no reason to be shipping stuff around and paying someone for a 10 minute job.

MartyE,

   Bill & Walts in White Oak is 90% conventional, he might not be able to up grade the TIU at his location, that is why I worded my prior post the way I did.

PCRR/Dave

I was just in there the other day and I think.... THINK it was gone.  They do have either the older version or just the TIU (I really cant remember).  If they do have it, it is $300 there.

Dave R,

I haven't set up my TIU, but I found it (50-1001) at the last train show in Monroeville, PA brand new from a local train shop for a really good price.  I have the DCS Remote Commander that I will hang onto for maybe a single engine around the Christmas tree or for testing, but I'd go with the full system.  Like you, I didnt really want to spend the money, but when I ran across it, I jumped on it. 

Just my 2 cents

-Mike

SeattleSUP,

   You are probably correct, I purchased another DCS hand held remote for this very reason, got tired of waiting for MTH to put out an updated new one.  Having Bill upgrade the newly purchased DCS remote control to make it fully rechargable, eventually I will have the old one upgraded the same way. 

PCRR/Dave

With absolutely no intent on bumping this topic, as of today, I still cannot find an MTH 50-1001 Rev. L brand new. Honestly, I'm frustrated. I spent quite a bit of time and effort deciding on what track I intend on using and the control system for it.

Originally (a repeat of the above), I bought the MTH DCS Commander to see if I wanted to proceed the DCS way or not (I do). But if I can't buy the dang product...what the heck???

In a WTB post I asked if anyone had one for sale, and even though I emailed the only respondent to offer a "payment to hold", I didn't get any reply.

Are they all gone?

This is probably a "Barry" question, but I figured that there's no harm in making my question public, as other newbies may be faced with the same dilemma (purchasing several engines and lots of track, only to be left with no reasonable DCS controller).

With all due respect to Barry (he's a really good guy both on this forum an via email), if I had known I was delving into "Betamax-like" situation, hindsight would forced me in a different direction.

My WTB (on the WTB forum) still stands, and I'm willing to pay for a dealer to hold expected stock for me.

Dave,

Go to the following link and click on FIND IT! to see a list of all of the dealers that claim to have DCS #50-1001 in stock. Start at the top and work your way down...

Dealer List

No dealers on that list EXCEPT Eastside Trains has a #50-1001...I know...I've called every one. Eastside Trains may be all gone as well but as of about 2 weeks ago, they had 2 or 3 left. I promptly grabbed one to have as an extra to my current set. 

If you or anyone else are interested in another DCS Remote Commander, I have one more for sale. See HERE

That is the only Eastside Trains I know of!  .... Great group. Johnny especially has been good to me in the past. 

All set on the Remote Commander (have one). I'm using the "DCS Commander", 50-1028, which looks like this:

While it is limited (as Barry wrote), it's a surprisingly capable litte box, easily controlling two engines on a fairly large Fastrack layout. Running two trains opposite each-other on "All" is quite a bit of fun . Learned a few things about DCS while using it:

1. Feed the track at only one point, as more than one will squash the DCS signal (for some reason). Haven't created "blocks" yet, so can't address that.

2. Use auxiliary power on Fastrack switches (I'm using 3 at the present time), as they too squash the DCS signal. Plus, if you use AC for the auxiliary power, you get both red and green colors on the switch remotes.

Anywho...I checked Eastside's website last night and the 50-1001 is not listed. Will call them today, but I'm east-coast, they're west-coast, so I'll have to wait about 3 hours or so.

Thanks for the tip!

There's another topic about the same thing which I put a link to my LHS that has 2 DCS systems in stock:

https://ogrforum.com/t...15#28742126397274815

Dang...duplicate threads (probably my fault)!

Thanks for the tip Bob!!!

I would not buy any train electronics used, except from someone I know personally and trust.  It's a pig-in-poke situation.  I would keep track on the internet for regular dealers (for example, Sidetrack, Trainworld, etc) and buy when you see a good price.

Dave:

Checked my LHS for a System, Seems he ran out recently.

As to your points:

1. Feed the track at only one point, as more than one will squash the DCS signal (for some reason). Haven't created "blocks" yet, so can't address that.

1) This is the reason for blocks, When the signal reaches the track it runs both ways from the power connection. When it gets to the far side it crosses itself. Then again back at the input point it crosses again, repeat with signal strength dropping a bit every 20 feet or so of track.

When the signal is crossing it is garbled to any engine, it's getting bits of both signals out of sync !

Making blocks stops the signal from looping and crossing itself. End of problem.

Also, Only connect the power one place in each block or you create the signal crossing issue again.

2. Use auxiliary power on Fastrack switches (I'm using 3 at the present time), as they too squash the DCS signal. Plus, if you use AC for the auxiliary power, you get both red and green colors on the switch remotes.

2)This is normal with ANY coil type switch motor, which is most of them.

Coils eat digital signals like cotton candy. DCS is a digital signal.

The only switch motors I can think of that don't use coils are the tortoise ones.

But, This is not why most switches allow external power. They also eat power your engines use, and do not throw well at low voltages. This means that if you are running slowly in conventional, the switch won't work ! Thus, Aux power to switches.

Russell,

The only switch motors I can think of that don't use coils are the tortoise ones.

Also the Z-Stuff machines, DZ1000 and DZ2500.

Barry,

I just had a DZ-1000 open and it looks like a small motor inside, is that correct?

 Bob,

I just had a DZ-1000 open and it looks like a small motor inside, is that correct?

Yes, that's correct.

That's correct, Bob.  It's really a great design.  The way Zander has the diodes, the polarity of half-wave DC on the motors differs depending on which outside terminal is fed, and the tiny microswitch keeps the motor from staying powered when it's thrown.  I don't use the Zander-supplied controllers, and I can use LEDs on my control panel to indicate switch positions without havin to insert diodes in the line.

The current draw is tiny, especially compared to those NJInternational motros with the solenoids