Zett's Union Station - Update 02/26/13

Ok, update time. Here are some pics!

The street level walls are almost complete. Cutting all of those angles was a lot of work. Once I add a few more trim an decorative pieces, I will be ready for some paint.





The corner of the walls look bad, but I will clean them up when I permanently piece them together. I completed the relief wall work that borders the window openings. This was a challenge as well. I have a lot of 'patch' work to do, but it should look pretty **** good after its painted.





I should have a lot more time to work on my train projects now, so hopefully the updates will be a little more frequent now. Hopefully I can get some major work completed on the station within the next week.

Well done, Zett!

Peter

quote:

I am extremely happy with this method. Thanks CSX Al. My only worry is that when it is painted that a lot of this detail will be lost. I have some trim pieces made of bass wood that I will be adding next.

You're welcome Zett. I have been quite busy and haven't been on the forum as much as I used to. Your station looks great. Once it is all painted everything will pull together nicely.

There are some tricks to getting your exterior detailing to stand out more, if you're willing to apply some light weathering. I used an India ink and alcohol wash to get some black into the crevices and brick patterns, which can really help "define" them much more after the paint has been applied.

With the techniques you used, you may find that something a bit thicker may work better. Even black acrylic paint, thinned a bit with water, and rubbed in with a sponge might do it. You then immediately go over the surface areas with a dry napkin or rag to get most if it back off. The rest will stay in the cracks and corners.

For dang sure, I'd create one or two test pieces, with similar patterns and details applied, to get the hang of it and see if it will produce the desired results before applying the technique to your model. Although, I've found you can always paint back over it and try again if you don't like the results.

Progress looks wonderful - thanks for the updates.

John

Hi Zett

Wonderful progress! We are planning something similar at the club built on a platform with the tracks below and and covering sheds on the back side. Your progress and ideas are being watched with great envy. Hope to see it sometime.

Ray Marion

I have not made much progress on the station in the past week, however I have made major progress on the layout room itself! I did however temporarily assemble the walls of the station to take some measurements as I prepare to build the base for the station. Here is a picture of what she looks like:



I cant wait to get this thing together. Overall the footprint on the layout will be approximately 4 foot by 4 foot. (Yikes). I know, thats pretty enormous. Especially when the main area I have to work with is 23' by 9'. With that said I am extremely happy with it so far, and think that because I made it scale, it will look amazing as the focal point of the layout. One thing that I am realizing is that I will probably not have the room to assemble diamonds on the layout. I can do it but having that feature will pretty much require me to designate half the layout to completing this scene. So unfortunately it is looking like, for now anyways, that there will be just a 0-72 curve behind the station. Perhaps down the line I will develop the space to construct a monster layout.

WOW That looks great!

Ok here is a quick update. I am finally home from vacation and got some work completed. Work on my layout itself really took off in December so I got next to nothing completed on the station, until the last two days.

I finally got around to ordering some trim for the side walls. Here is what I have so far.







The area where the trim meets in the corners is very hard to connect seamlessly. I am going to have to do some sort of putty work in this area. As I said on my blog, as soon as I complete the benchwork where the station will sit, I will be able to start working on the base, and hopefully progress will really take off from there.

Very nice!

John

Lima I actually used a miter box which obviously left me with some problems. I am going to redo the corners and overcompensate for the angles, then trim down if I need to from there.

Anzani I like the gargoyle idea, LOL.

A few project "moments" today. Came home from work and found out my siberian husky Comet attacked some new bass wood I purchased yesterday. Not a big deal, I need to go back for another piece or 2 now though. I made some more progress today (I will post pictures tonight). My lovely wife was looking at my progress and said "wow thats really detailed." Thinking I am doing a good job a smile came to my face until she said "when your done can we light it on fire?" She then laughed like it was the first joke ever told.

Ok quick update, pictures as promised. I finally made it to the top of the platform level outside walls. I still have a quick trim piece to add to the bottom, one to the top where the overhang is, and then some detailing at the very top where it looks completely plain. Once that is finished these pieces will be ready for paint. Of course thats after I fix the corners.





I see what some of you do in 2 weeks time and it blows me away. I think I am close to a year into this project now? My goal is to have it completed by June 1st, so we will see how that goes.

Well today started well, I finally worked my way to the top of one of the walls. I just need to add 2 more small pieces of trim which I still need to order and I will be finished.



As I stood back and was comparing my work to the original, I discovered I made a horrible mistake that is making me feel sick. Heres the original:



I am surprised it took me this long to figure this out. If you compare the two its pretty obvious (at least it is now) that something is off. When I started adding the upper trim, I started 1 course of block too high. So everything above the windows is now off. Dont ask me how, I always work with a picture in front of me. Nightmare of a mistake.



The trim marked by the yellow arrow above should actually be where the blue arrow is pointing. So right now the wall is approximately .25" too high. This is a huge issue, especially when I am trying to build the station to exactly scale.

So I now need suggestions on how to fix this. I made the same mistake on all 6 walls that are constructed this way. The trim is attached with wood glue, so peeling it off is not an option.

So far I am thinking I need to find a table saw with a very fine blade, and cut just below the trim marked by the yellow arrow, and then on the line marked by the blue arrow. Then connect the top of the wall to the bottom of the wall again. The only thing going for me on this is that the seam will be just below the trim piece, making it somewhat easier to hide.

I am praying that this is fixable... otherwise a year of work pretty much just went down the tubes. I appreciate any suggestions.

That's a lot of work to just move a molding a little bit lower.
I realize the model isn't "exactly" like the original with that molding in the present location.
However, if you had not said anything, I really don't think anyone else would have seen the difference.
Even you didn't see the difference while you were fasting the molding on.

The building looks fantastic just like it is and I wouldn't change anything.

Zett

I can understand your frustration when you personally are aware of an error. Seriously though if it doesn't alter the dimensions you may be the only one to notice. It looks terrific from here.

Ray Marion

I have to agree that nobody will notice--I purposely searched the picture before I finished reading your post, and I never caught the problem.

OTOH, if *you* are going to cringe every time you look at it, then you should fix it. Scratchbuilders are their own harshest critics.

I cut them. As soon as I figured the problem out I had to make the correction. I ended up cutting just below the yellow arrow piece and right at the blue arrow. Those were some pretty nerve-wracking cuts. All in all it was a success, crisis averted. Now I just have to glue the tops to the bottoms. The seam should be hidden just below the trim, its going to look like one piece, especially after it is painted and weathered.

Ray I stood the walls up the way it was, and I think if you have seen the Joliet station as much as we have, you would probably pick up that something is off. An extra .25" goes a long way. It does make a world of difference.

I will post some pictures when I complete the reassembly.

Glad to see you got the problem solved.
I'm new at model buildings but I've been creating things all my life.
I fully understand that if you can see it, then it needs to be corrected whether anyone else can see it or not.

Good job ...

For filling the small gaps in corner joins try a product called Mr. Surfacer.

I get it from a hobby shop.

It dries nearly instantly and is very sandable unlike putty fillers or zap a gap.

Used by plastic modelers to fill wing seam gaps but excellent for hiding small errors in scratch or kit building.

ROB M

quote:

Scratchbuilders are their own harshest critics.

Yes indeed.

Zett, I would have let it fly, but as others have said, if it's bothering you that much (and apparently it was), then you have to fix it.

Enjoying every update,

John

UPDATE 02/01/12Crisis averted!!

 

My last two days off I corrected the problem, and now the side walls are almost finished. I am waiting to add 2 trim pieces, need to square up the corners, and then it will be ready for paint. Cutting the extra .25" off made a massive difference. I had to do it or else it would have bothered me forever. It really was not difficult, more stressful than anything.

 

 

If you compare this picture to the one posted above before the surgery, you can see the difference.

 

 

I am starting to make some great progress finally!

 

Check out my blog! http://zettsoscaletrainlayout.blogspot.com/

Today I cut the base of the platform (upper) level and did my first mock-up on the benchwork! What a joy to see the station where it will actually be on the layout. I just started my benchwork and have a long way to go, so many projects at once...

 

Anyway, it needs a little trimming but I used 1/8" hardboard. Also today I started cutting bricks for the platform floor. I am going to use Vulcan's technique, using acrylic  canvas. Tedious job so far, but at least its something you can do while watching TV. Enjoy some quick pics!

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I am sure that last shot really shows you how many bricks I need to cut... yay. My next step is to cut out about 8 million more bricks, and then get ready to glue them all. I am going to construct a sound base for the building, and then need to begin construction on the handrail section.

 

Looking at the height of the side walls in the second picture, I think it really shows how much of a difference was made by cutting off the quarter inch last week. It would have looked just way too high.

 

Well thanks for stopping by again, and remember to check out my blog http://zettsoscaletrainlayout.blogspot.com/ I uploaded some old family photos there this week.

 

I need to get some track laid before my MTH EJ&E Transfer Diesels show up at the door!

Awesome!  Really nice work.

 

don

Man, that is just too cool for school!  I'm sure you posted these earlier, but these are way too cool.  I love old video games and pinball.  I'd buy these from you if you were in business selling them!  If nothing else, I'd put them in a flat car and parade them around the layout

 

I just had to compliment you. Nicely done!  

I still have some pinball kits left:  http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/Pi...ballMachinesMain.jsp

 

But we're (accidentally) hijacking this topic!  Zett - any updates on this epic project?  We're hanging on every post!! 

Ok quick update, im getting ready for work. Once again it may not look like it, but I have accomplished a lot since the last update. A lot of tedious work so.

 

Here is an overall view. As you can see I finally added the chimneys. If you check the photographs above, some do not have the chimneys. I am not sure why, they vanished sometime in the 1960s. They have refurbished the station since then, however they were not added. I had to guess on the chimney dimensions, and I think they may be about 1/4" too wide looking from the front. I will probably do some surgery and chop them.

 

 

Heres a close up of the west face of the building facing Scott St. The lower wall with the 5 openings is almost completed. The opening farthest to the right will be a stairway to reach the passenger platform.

 

 

Heres a top view showing the curb. I also had to guess on this dimension because the curbs were widened sometime in the 1970s. You can also see I began to add the trim to the top of the main middle section.

 

 

I had to complete the scribework on the outside of the building. This too about 2 days, but looks great. I also had to add more trimwork to the lower level piece shown below where it 90s to the taller portion.

 

 

Here is a view of the top. I added wood to the inside that will eventually support the roof. Also it gives the walls more stability. Right now all of this is freestanding. After I complete the trim I will actually glue it all together.

 

 

Well, thats all I have time for. I have made progress on the benchwork as well, I will post an update this weekend. I am still working on cutting the bricks for the passenger platform, so its coming along.

 

Thanks!!

Magnificent!!  Zett, you are doing a great job.  When completed, you will have a masterpiece to be proud of....very nice work indeed!

 

Alan

Nice work Zett, isn't  it fun to scribe all those blocks

 

keep  up the great work.

Great work Zett. I'm enjoying the process. 

 

Andy

Terrific!  This is such a great building to model.  I like the way it angles at 45's for the wings, this lends a lot of visual interest and actually permits you to have a larger building in a smaller footprint.

 

Great work!

Yes  A very nice project. 

 I did a Doll house kit a few years back and found some of the wood filler products at local hardware stores of help. I can't tell from the pictures/discussion so far whether there has been painting or not.  Since your project is wood you will eventually get into some type of a sander/sealer before paint.   I recommend since there is so much wood both inside and out. I've used Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock White 141-1669 in spray cans. It covers heavy and with some of the modeling fine detail can be lost but it sands very well with 320 and small paper.    Your detail appears bold enough for this product.  You have done an excellent job on the detail, you want to look closely at the whole structure since it is large. When completely assemblied it should be a strong self-supporting stand alone piece, may be requiring inside bracing to assure some of the walls/corner seams don't buckle or warp.  I think the base is heavy enough if you corner brace and use a very good material for the roof that will add strength to the model.  I use a lot of small brad nails/with a brad driver, and Atlas track screws for assembly of the doll house along with white and construction glues.

 

Again  Great project

Mike 

Thanks for the kind words gents. Your keeping me motivated.

 

I need some help/suggestions. There are 3 light fixtures that I need to find for the station. Obviously I want to find something as close as possible to what is there. I know this will be next to impossible but maybe I will get lucky.

 

Light #1 The chandeliers for the main waiting room. There are 3 of them and they will be visible when looking through the 3 main rounded top windows. Here is a link to a picture:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/j...ographer/3301820897/

 

Light #2 These lights have 5 bulbs that are mounted on 1 pole.

 

 

Light #3 Single bulbs wall mounted.

 

 

I appreciate any suggestions you all may have. I have already done some searching online and have not come across anything I am really happy with.

 

Also I have searched quite a lot of chandeliers from dollhouse webpages and such. I am not looking to spend $200 per chandelier LOL.

 

Thanks!

Zett, When I built the Union Station I used doll house chandeliers I found at Niagara Hobby locally. They had several types and I think they ranged from $15-39 depending on size. I wound up using two in side. For the outside lights look at Brawa. They are HO but work great for O. Here are a few kinds. Not exact but good enough to work. These are made of brass, not plastic like Walthers lamp posts & wall lights. They are a little more money but are worth it IMHO.

 

 

 

Where did you find those trim pieces?

I'm beginning a Chicago Union Station project, and will need to find something similar that will work in my application.

 

CSX AL, thanks for the suggestion! Looks like those might work perfectly and be very close to the scale I need as well.

 

Since you have worked with this manufacturer before, is it possible to modify these lights? Right now it looks like the 5173 and the 5356 would be the closest to my needs. Do you think it is possible to remove the enclosure around the bulbs? That way I could possibly make a circular enclosure?

 

ACF check out CSX AL's Union Station project link for ideas. This method has pretty much been the blueprint for my project. Thanks for doing the legwork AL!

 

http://home.roadrunner.com/~st...o/Union_Station.html

 

A lot of the trim / details that I have added is achieved by laying different size balsa woods on top of each other, and then topping them off with quarter round, half round, or cove pieces.

Originally Posted by Zett:

Since you have worked with this manufacturer before, is it possible to modify these lights? Right now it looks like the 5173 and the 5356 would be the closest to my needs. Do you think it is possible to remove the enclosure around the bulbs? That way I could possibly make a circular enclosure?

 

Thanks for doing the legwork AL!

No problem Zett

In the last two days I finished the first staircase. Overall I think it looks pretty good. Keeping things honest.. there are 3 extra steps in my model compared to the real station. I tried to come up with a way to make them perfect, but in the end I dont think it would have been worth the effort, for a staircase that is almost completely hidden from view anyways. I cant tell by looking so I doubt anyone else will.

 

 

I have also been working on finishing more scribing in other areas, including the walls that go on either side of the steps. Here is a shot of the access hole down the staircase to street level. The rectangle I cut here is not perfect, but it doesnt have to be because 3 sides of it will be covered with walls that stick up out of the platform.

 

 

For the quick shots I took, I thought this one was pretty cool. Notice I still have to scribe the vertical lines. I have to make a stop out at the station this week and take some measurements before I scribe those lines.

 

 

No pics included, but I started on the 2nd staircase as well, and hope to finish that this week.

not exactly what you are looking for, but it would still "look" about right.

 

http://www.miniatronics.com/Me...amp;Product_Count=12

 

Steve

This HO Brawa that CSX Al posted:

 

looks like this Ebay Vendor's stuff too!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260835595619?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_3723wt_1163

I am way behind in updates, sorry for that but here we go. I am finally getting back to working on the Union Station. I pushed through the summer months getting trackwork and other layout work completed. Now I need to push to get this station finished.

 

Ill start with two pictures from the 100th Anniversary of the Union Station which was October 14th. The Blackhawk chapter NRHS put on a dinner to commemorate the event. It was a great time. The dinner replicated the menu from 1912 which was a very nice touch. Bill Molony, the president of the Blackhawk NRHS had a few nice displays up in the station, including a GM&O and Michigan Central display. He also displayed his Rock Island Aero train and a GM&O Abraham Lincoln passenger train. Sorry I did not take a picture of those to share.

 

The ceremony included a slide show at the end showing the history. Here is a shot of my (incredible) wife and I standing out front. George Bush spoke from the balcony you see behind us when he ran for election in 2000.

 

 

Here is a shot from inside what is now the grand ballroom. This was the waiting room for passengers in 1912. Gorgeous.

 

 

I completed my first pour of the roadway a few weeks ago. I think it turned out amazing. This is only my first attempt so I will make improvements on my next try. I used Durhams water putty and added some black acrylic paint to color. I had to weigh it down to the table because it started to bow when it dried. Remember my roads are going to be removable so I can make changes depending on what era my layout will be modeling. The road seen below is how it appears today.

 

 

 

The trees are here just to get an idea of the finished project. I will use completely different trees in the future. I think the road looks great. I am still working on the sidewalk.

 

 

Another poor lighting shot but here is another view. The top level of the station is off to the side while I work on the platform. Thats my uncles MTH PS1 daylight in the background.

 

 

Notice the imperfections on the road. I made a few mistakes that I will correct. One is to make sure before it dries that the surface is clear of any imperfections that you dont want. I made a mistake of thinking I could just sand problem areas. Durhams is so hard that this is not the case. The road appears to have an icy look to it below. This is because I have done nothing to the surface after it dried, other than my attempt at sanding. With dullcoat and some weathering powders it should look pretty good. Durham's is very hard and I am very happy with it. Now my nephews can push cars around and I dont have to worry about the road flaking or being damaged.

 

LESSONS LEARNED ON ROADS: A little color goes a LONG way. Durham's dries fast so you have to work fast. Make sure you flatten or level out the surface because it is almost impossible to fix imperfections later.

 

 

Here is my work that I started on the platform as of last night. This is 3.5" by 8.5" brick scribed by hand. Very tedious but I could not find a good product to purchase (without spending a fortune) to achieve the effect I wanted. I have a long way to go but my goal is to get the entire platform scribed by the end of Thanksgiving weekend.

 

 

I still have not made a decision on the lights, but thank you all for the suggestions.