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Last winter I started constructing some buildings that will eventually go on my layout.
This winter I decided to build a farm house that is patterned after the house that we currently live in.
It is a small farm house that was built in the early 1900's and has been added on and remodeled over the years.
It currently looks like this.








My layout is going to be set in the late 40's to early 50's area so the model house design will be modified to reflect that.
The base is cut from plywood and the sidewalls are from Masonite.






I used the Microsoft Word program to create a siding pattern that I could print out.




The sidewalls were traced on the back of the sheets, then they were cut out and glued to the model.






Lines were marked on a piece of 1/8 inch paneling to represent porch boards.




This was done for both porches, then cut out and glued to the model.
The windows and doors are also mounted in place.





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Ray, very nice work so far. I'm curious if using plywood and masonite with the printed out clapboard is much less expensive than actual basswood clapboard from Northeastern Scale Models or Mt. Albert, etc? If so, how thick is the masonite and how difficult is to cut the window/door openings? Thanks.

Jerrman
Thanks Jerrman

I can buy a 4x8 foot sheet of 1/8 inch masonite or plywood for less than what a single 3x24 inch sheet of milled clapboard cost.

I want to eventually scratch build all the buildings for the layout and because I'm retired, the cost of building them is a big consideration.
If I construct them all the same way, then the overall look of the layout will be uniform when it's finished.


I have mounted a saber saw upside down under a piece of aluminum so the blade is sticking up.
This makes it easy to cut the openings out.

I don't think I ever realized just how many different angles there are on the roof of this farm house.
I'm sure redoing the real thing was easier than cutting and fitting the roof sections for this model.
It's for sure that this is the most complicated roof that I've modeled so far.

I want to build the roof so that it can still be removed for access to the inside like I did on the buildings that I made last winter.
Here I'm starting with the two front roof panels which weren't really much problem.




Then I started working my way around to the other sides and that's where it gets interesting in cutting and fitting each roof section to the walls and other roof sections.

View of the left front corner.



And the right rear corner.

The base for the roof on the main part of the house is built as one piece so it can be removed.
The roof for the front room and front porch are built the same way.

For now I haven't been putting any interiors in the buildings that I've built.
However, I may want to do that at some time or put lighting in the buildings so that's why I'm making them so the roofs can be removed.

Here is the roof section for the front addition and front porch.






This roof section is for the rest of the house.
Both roof sections still need to have all the edge trim put on and a dormer built for the main house then they can have the shingles glued on.






When I built the factory last year I made up a brick pattern on Microsoft Word and printed out sheets of brick to cover the side wall on the factory.
I used that same process to make the shingles for the roof.

Very nice Ray. You mentioned shingles for the roof but the picture shows a standing seam metal roof?? Standing seam metal roof. Detail says the ribs are 20" to 22" apart which looks pretty close to what is pictured.

Where did you get the 1/8" masonite, most of the masonite I use is flooring underlayment and is about 3/16" to 7/32"? I have one piece, I scrounged from a mother-in-law project many years ago, that is that thin, though is has a finished wall paneling look, (marlite) on one side.

Again, very nice project Smile.
Mike
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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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