0-6-0 steam switcher question

Coca Cola,

     A video would help however here are a few things to check. Are your switches level? Do you have a smooth transition to the proceeding and following sections of track? Rub your fingers on the rails can you feel any differences in rail height or gaps in the tracks. If so you need to fix them How fast are you running through the switches? A real 0-6-0 switcher most likely never exceeded 20 miles per hour in it’s lifetime. We have a guy at our club who runs his switches at full speeds when he hits a switch they turn into airplanes.

JohnB

The two third-rail pick-up rolls are relatively close together.  A switch has power holes, points where one roll supplies the power, while the other negotiates the hole.  There is information, about power routing, on the forum. Power routing, a bit more intense, than most hobby-ist would like.  The Atlas 6924 relay board, and DZ 1008 relays, both address switch problems, (1.)Non-derail, and (2.)Power routing.    Atlas SW9 model has (4) roller pick-ups.

Is this the latest release? If so many of them are out of gauge. The width between the flanges should be less than 1.25”. You should check that before buying another engine.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Is this the latest release? If so many of them are out of gauge. The width between the flanges should be less than 1.25”. You should check that before buying another engine.

Pete

I want to say that this one is from 1997.  I bought it used at my local shop.  If I can only use it on my shelf as something pretty, so be it.  What do you mean, the width between the flanges?  Some of this stuff is new to me!

The older ones don’t have a problem with wheel gauge. If yours is stalling its likely due to the distance between the rollers. That can be a problem with most any engine. Depends on the switches used and engine. If yours is climbing the frogs it might be due to traction tires too thick or starting to come off.

Pete

With car trucks, surprisingly, the ones that would derail, the wheel flange spacing was too small (tight). The wheels needed to be moved out.  The flanges would ride up on some of the plastic guides on, switches, crosses, and other track parts.

If the flanges are sharp, they could be picking the joints where the next section of track joins the switch.    o27 curvers are very sharp.    

You could consider changing to gargraves or Ross switchers for your yard.    They would be longer, but would put the tracks closer together and allow more tracks in the yard.    Also, this loco might like the curves better.