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I have been working on this very nice engine in between other projects and it is now complete-o. I had to fabricate a coupler mount for the tender and while I was at it I installed a PSC steam line for pulling passenger and/or manned mail/express service. I am working on another YouTube for it and I am hoping to get it done soon. In the meantime, here’s some poser shots on the layout:

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Here’s a couples shots of the coupler setup fabrication in progress:

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I tried to make some nice boiler streaks:

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And lastly, here it is all snuggled up in the roundhouse:

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Last edited by Norm Charbonneau
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I have a Weaver M1 that I will get around to detailing in the next year. I will use your photos as a reference since they are better than most of those I found searching the net for days to find how one detail should be. Or not finding as the case may be.  Love the fine wash marks running down the sides understated yet so vital to the effect.  Thanks for the inspiration.                    j

Norm, watched your video on weathering. Really well done. I’ve always used either Flo Quil or Scalecoat 1 for engines. I do clean them a bit to get good paint adhesion by wiping the side rods and wheels. Usually I tend to give the tender and engine  shell a rinse in the sink with Dawn if possible. It’s still tough to get in every nook as far as cleaning.

I would like to move to acrylics. They just seem more user friendly. I seldom if ever run smoke. I like the Micro Mart brand and discovered Mission Models paint. Just curious after all the handling on the workbench how you prep the engine for painting. The enamels I’ve used seem to adhere even if every thing isn’t squeaky clean. Just curious if the acrylics go on well as far as holding up over time.

Dave, thanks man! I typically prep everything with Windex. I'll use a brush to apply it and maybe do a bit of scrubbing if needed. I meant to show that in the vids. A hair dryer helps or a bit of air from the airbrush to push the Windex around and dry it. I can get smoke fluid off of outer surfaces pretty well this way but it's a real fight to chase it all out from openings and gaps, etc. I prefer my used engines to be un-smoked. Disassembly and scrubbing with dishwashing detergent and hot water can be of great help and most factory paint and assembly can survive a full dunk if needed. Gloves are used to protect the model from skin oils, etc. I will wash my gloved hands with Windex as I work so I don't accidently transfer wet paint, etc. With acrylics you can handle the finish very quickly and can avoid a lot extra disassembly.

With Polly and MM gone I am gravitating toward Vallejo. Model air shoots right out of the bottle much like MM with no thinning needed. I tried the ModelersDP stuff but the sheen is too much.

Here's the vid if anyone wants to see:

Last edited by Norm Charbonneau

Dave, thanks man! I typically prep everything with Windex. I'll use a brush to apply it and maybe do a bit of scrubbing if needed. I meant to show that in the vids. A hair dryer helps or a bit of air from the airbrush to push the Windex around and dry it. I can get smoke fluid off of outer surfaces pretty well this way but it's a real fight to chase it all out from openings and gaps, etc. I prefer my used engines to be un-smoked. Disassembly and scrubbing with dishwashing detergent and hot water can be of great help and most factory paint and assembly can survive a full dunk if needed.

With Polly and MM gone I am gravitating toward Vallejo. Model air shoots right out of the bottle much like MM with no thinning needed. I tried the ModelersDP stuff but the sheen is too much.

Here's the vid if anyone wants to see:

Looks amazing Norm. Your work always amazes me as it seems there is no limit to what you can do. What sounds are you planning to use or are you keeping the OG TAS sounds?

Norm - Awesome, super informative and helpful video.  Thank you for sharing your experience and tips especially with the weathering / airbrushing!!!  Would love a video if/when you have the energy on weathering approach and technique with your buildings and scenery.  As everyone has shared it's outstanding.  TY, JP

No BS, you have a talent.  I have watched a ton of O gauge and model railroad how to videos and you are in the top top 1%.  First, great knowledge. You cover the material in sufficient detail but not too much.  You move along at a good pace.  Videos are great quality.  Thanks again, keep them coming.  Jim

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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