Hello, wondering if there is a “known or typical” reason I wouldnt have power to this connector? I put power to the lighting board and it lights but I don’t seem to have power to the connector from the trucks. Also do I just update to leds and if so what is a good set up to use to upgrade? Thanks for the help
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Hi I would Recommed changing to led kits and check with Gunnrunner he sales everything you need to convert it over! he is here on the forum!
Alan
Have you checked the switch? It could be off, bad or have dirty contacts. I'd start by trying both positions. If it works intermittently, the contacts may be dirty or there may be a bad solder connection to the PCB. With power off, you could also check the switch and solder connections for continuity.
Either way, if exercising the switch doesn't reveal the issue, a continuity check of the circuit is likely to reveal where the fault lies.
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If you're not adverse to soldering, you can upgrade to LED's using the Warm White LED strips and this LED regulator module.
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@SteveH posted:Have you checked the switch? It could be off, bad or have dirty contacts. I'd start by trying both positions. If it works intermittently, the contacts may be dirty or there may be a bad solder connection to the PCB. With power off, you could also check the switch and solder connections for continuity.
Either way, if exercising the switch doesn't reveal the issue, a continuity check of the circuit is likely to reveal where the fault lies.
it isn’t intermittent always off, exercised the switch no change. I’ll try that and see if it’s the switch.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:If you're not adverse to soldering, you can upgrade to LED's using the Warm White LED strips and this LED regulator module.
Thank you I’m going to order these and upgrade to leds while I’m at it.
Two common points of failure are the switch as mentioned above and the ground (outside rail) connection to the truck. I would first spray electrical contact cleaner into the switch and work it back and forth. I have revived switches in this manner.
Sometimes the truck ground relies on the mechanical truck mount, but yours appears to be wired directly to the truck. Make sure the screws mounting the wires to the truck are tight. I have also been fooled when I disassembled a K-line passenger car and needed to loosen the trucks. The screw that secured the flat sheet metal truck mount to the frame ended up being the point of continuity for the ground connection of the truck. Mechanical sheet metal to sheet metal contact was not enough.
With the resistance or continuity function of your multimeter, test from the power plug to each truck. One pin should have continuity to both center rollers and the other pin should have continuity to the truck wheels. Don't forget to test with the switch in both positions. If the the failed portion of the circuit runs through the circuit board with the switch, you may need access to the back of the circuit board to test further for the failure point. Also this will allow you to test across the switch terminals.
One last thing to check: burned insulation especially at the ends of the wires. A derailment where one roller pickup contacts the outside rail can burn up the wire between the 2 center rollers. This will usually result in failure at only one pickup.
Bob