Hi I would Recommed changing to led kits and check with Gunnrunner he sales everything you need to convert it over! he is here on the forum!

Alan

Have you checked the switch?  It could be off, bad or have dirty contacts.  I'd start by trying both positions.  If it works intermittently, the contacts may be dirty or there may be a bad solder connection to the PCB.  With power off, you could also check the switch and solder connections for continuity.

Either way, if exercising the switch doesn't reveal the issue, a continuity check of the circuit is likely to reveal where the fault lies.

If you're not adverse to soldering, you can upgrade to LED's using the Warm White LED strips and this LED regulator module.

LED Lighting Regulator

@SteveH posted:

Have you checked the switch?  It could be off, bad or have dirty contacts.  I'd start by trying both positions.  If it works intermittently, the contacts may be dirty or there may be a bad solder connection to the PCB.  With power off, you could also check the switch and solder connections for continuity.

Either way, if exercising the switch doesn't reveal the issue, a continuity check of the circuit is likely to reveal where the fault lies.

it isn’t intermittent always off, exercised the switch no change.  I’ll try that and see if it’s the switch.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

If you're not adverse to soldering, you can upgrade to LED's using the Warm White LED strips and this LED regulator module.

LED Lighting Regulator

Thank you I’m going to order these and upgrade to leds while I’m at it.

Two common points of failure are the switch as mentioned above and the ground (outside rail) connection to the truck. I would first spray electrical contact cleaner into the switch and work it back and forth.  I have revived switches in this manner.  

Sometimes the truck ground relies on the mechanical truck mount, but yours appears to be wired directly to the truck.  Make sure the screws mounting the wires to the truck are tight.  I have also been fooled when I disassembled a K-line passenger car and needed to loosen the trucks.  The screw that secured the flat sheet metal truck mount to the frame ended up being the point of continuity for the ground connection of the truck. Mechanical sheet metal to sheet metal contact was not enough.

With the resistance or continuity function of your multimeter, test from the power plug to each truck.  One pin should have continuity to both center rollers and the other pin should have continuity to the truck wheels.  Don't forget to test with the switch in both positions.   If the  the failed portion of the circuit runs through the circuit board with the switch, you may need access to the back of the circuit board to test further for the failure point.  Also this will allow you to test across the switch terminals.

One last thing to check:  burned insulation especially at the ends of the wires.  A derailment where one roller pickup contacts the outside rail can burn up the wire between the 2 center rollers.  This will usually result in failure at only one pickup.

Bob

I would agree about the common connection.  While newer models have a swiper on the axles, earlier models heavily relied on the pivot point of the truck to the frame.  I just recently converted all my trucks on a set of SF car to the axle wiper for common while replacing all the side frames because of zinc rot, and it made a world of difference.  The washer between the truck and frame becomes dirty and tarnished and no longer conducts.  Cleaning them helps but a reliable common from the axle wipers is the way to go. Now the unfortunate part, this is not a Lionel part they sell without buying the entire truck.  Fortunately I had the entire truck to get the side frames so I killed 2 birds with one stone.  Something to look at.

Regardless of whether you do an LED conversion or not you will need a good common.

@MartyE posted:

I would agree about the common connection.  While newer models have a swiper on the axles, earlier models heavily relied on the pivot point of the truck to the frame.  I just recently converted all my trucks on a set of SF car to the axle wiper for common while replacing all the side frames because of zinc rot, and it made a world of difference.  The washer between the truck and frame becomes dirty and tarnished and no longer conducts.  Cleaning them helps but a reliable common from the axle wipers is the way to go. Now the unfortunate part, this is not a Lionel part they sell without buying the entire truck.  Fortunately I had the entire truck to get the side frames so I killed 2 birds with one stone.  Something to look at.

Regardless of whether you do an LED conversion or not you will need a good common.

I do see what you mean.  That could be it as well and not a bad idea, do you know what the part number is for the trucks for these cars with that sweeper?

6-25622

@Sparty1225 posted:

I do see what you mean.  That could be it as well and not a bad idea, do you know what the part number is for the trucks for these cars with that sweeper?

6-25622

I look it up when I get home.  I had Silver side frames so the PN maybe different.  The other issue is they came without couplers so I basically had to disassemble the new trucks and the old trucks and swap the bad parts. FWIW, I only ordered 1 set to confirm they were the correct parts.   If they came with couplers, which they may under a different part number, I would have just swapped he trucks.

I remember a set of Lionel Delaware & Hudson passenger cars that Lionel painted the parts before assembling.  I had to totally disassemble all the trucks to remove the paint and restore reliable lighting, it was a real PITA!