44 Missile Firing Locomotive

Pictures?

The locking mechanism for the missile launching assembly relies on a strip of foam, mounted to the frame underneath the mechanism The foam pushes up on the latches.
The foam is almost always decomposed on original Postwar #44 and #45 Mobile Missle Launchers. I usually replace the foam with a piece of foam weather stripping. 

I don't recall seeing anybody offering individual pieces to the launching mechanism itself. There is a foam cushion inside there too. I believe it is there to absorb the impact of the launch. I've replaced those with a different type of weather stripping. Before you get too far into your mechanism, check for cracks. I've only run into a couple with cracks, If yours is cracked, you may want to just replace the whole thing.

Below is a link to the explosion diagram of the modern era issue. It is fairly close to the original Postwar one.

If you are interested, I may have an extra modern era missile launching assembly, new old stock. If I do, it would be a black one. You could replace the whole thing, or take the guts out of the new one to fix your original. Write to me using my contact information in my profile.

Modern era missile launching loco

For a denser foam, I used a mouse pad.  it worked well and I hope will last longer.

I cut one of the foam cheapy paint brushes, to get my foam. If you want another 44 let me know I have 3 two postwar one modern. The one I'm talking about works and all but is missing steps like most of them are. 

Below are some pictures.  I believe I'm missing some springs in the launch mechanism... among other things.  The far right and far left stations are jammed.  It looks like someone did some glue repair possibly.  Is it beyond repair?  I hate to give up on this stuff.  Any help is greatly appreciated!

There is a little information if you look at parts list for accessory 448.  Jeff Kane (Train  Tender) carries the foam pad,  44-28.

There should be a spring and a latch for each of the four launch positions. I think I see the latches underneath the metal plate. That isn't how they go.

I may be able to take some photos later on today.

It appears they glued the metal plate to the plastic frame.  I assume it was originally held by screws.  Just want to confirm before I get it apart.

It appears they glued the metal plate to the plastic frame.  I assume it was originally held by screws.  Just want to confirm before I get it apart.

Two screws.
I wonder whether the posts for the screws are broken.

Here are some photos that should help. See the small pictures at the bottom for captions.

As RichO mentioned, a mouse pad is a good source of material for the internal dense foam piece. He jogged my memory, that is what I used on the last two mechanisms I rebuilt. Each unit got two strips, cut from a mouse pad I purchased at Walmarts specifically for this purpose. I did not see the need to bond them together. (The one pictured still has the original material. I will determine whether the pad needs replacing when I get the part ready to be installed)

Also, this part has pan head screws, some have round head screws. They are self-threading, as opposed to self tapping. That means they have a fine cutting thread.

C.W. - thanks for the pictures.  They are a tremendous help.  I'm missing significant parts!  All for springs are gone.  Only 1 of the latches is present and 3 of the guides.  You were also correct, they used glue because the post screw taps are broken.  Definitely a mess and likely just parts.  Thanks for all the help!!!

OK - more fun with this project.  The Collector truck doesn't have a truck stud.  Looks like they did their own mod to get it to work - see picture below.  I've looked and can't find what this should look like - the newer ones have a different style collector truck.  Anyone know how this connects to the frame?

Thanks and have a great Thanksgiving!

Your truck is fine.

That piece that is bent up takes an external snap ring to hold the truck in place.
Look carefully and you will see a groove for the snap ring.
You have to be careful not to align the opening in the snap ring with the edge of the bent-up piece. If they are aligned, often the snap ring will slip off.

C.W. - thanks again!  OK - that's how it was, just didn't know if that was a "mod".  I've noticed that - the snap ring I normally use for truck studs will slip right off if it aligns.  I think I'll try and flatten out a little more than it is so it grabs better.

I guess you can get away with the E-rings or horse shoe washers that were used with truck studs. External snap rings look a bit different. Below is a photo of a current snap ring that is similar, but not identical to what Lionel used on that style collector truck.

John Email me at my email in my profile. If you want another that works but missing steps. 

C.W.

I have a snap ring for it - they are a real bear to get back on.  Any tricks - much more rigid than horse shoe washers.

Snap rings are normally very hard and very brittle.

The right way: Snap ring pliers. I buy good tips, but I use cheap pliers to mount them in. Cheap ones can be had at Harbor freight....cheap. Sometimes the tips are garbage; sometimes they are ok.

The "Red Green methods": (guaranteed to make you bleed 50% of the time, but who cares eh?) Pried and Held open by a screwdriver blade (ow, my thumb, but good for small snap rings in tight spots), pried open with awl tips.(Ow, guess what.... Those jabs to the fingers and palms; they hurt too)

I've used the tips of good saftey pins and two pairs of needle nose on small ones.

The only thought I can add to Adriatic's post is that the Snap Rings that Lionel used on that pilot truck are indeed very stiff, and difficult to open up. I have a few different pairs of the special pliers for them. It doesn't seem to matter which pair I use, none of them make it easy.
Large snap rings are much more flexible.

As I write this, I think that the way I've been getting them back in place is to slide them onto the bent-up post from the side (taking advantage of the gap in the ring,  then opening them slightly with the snap ring pliers and twisting them around so the gap is at an approximate right angle to the edge of the post.

Thanks - the project is almost complete.  Missile firing works great and the engine runs like a top.  Need to buy some missiles for sure - and the little guy with the control panel.

Any creative ideas on bumper repair.  Without the bumper, the shell isn't secured.  Definitely need to figure that out.  Slight damage on the front also.

Also - some discoloration on the top and sides.  Any tricks for restoration.

Thanks for the help - couldn't have done it without the help on this forum!

What did you do about your launch mechanism?

Unfortunately, your broken front bumper is extremely common. I've seen ones repaired by putting a piece of wood across the front, attached to the sides. 

Sorry to say that your rear bumper is broken too.

The shell is rather thin, and somewhat weak, and tipping the shell up to remove it seems to stress the bumper. According to my understanding, nobody has reproduced the shell because it would require a rather complex, multi-piece mold.
Lionel had some available in the "99" markings on their parts list a while ago, but they were something like $75 each. I managed to snag a couple during one of their 1/2 price sales, and put a couple of engines together.

I see the blue Modern era shell available on Jeff Kane's list:

Thanks - I'll look at the wood option.  I've got enough $ in this project right now.  I also like to restore versus replace if I can.  

I found a launch mechanism for under $20.  I needed the metal frame from my other one since the slots didn't match up.  Works very well.

A slightly fexible metal bracket embedded in JB weld attached to the body inside, covered by "pretty filler".  Jbw also does well for making screw boss repairs by itself or with threaded inserts. I have a tender and control units that I used jbw to do extensive repair to. The color can be a good match with care. I'll post two repairs you can see it on.

"Creative filler"-Id like to see this detail painted as extremly destressed, & weathered, a raw steel or flat black paint like the Stealth airplanes. Rocket nozzels in the back, maybe bumpers off a toy Cadillac And the front: gun pods or some post apocalyptic spikes.

     Why not? If having arcuate PW is wanted, youre hunting another shell at least anyhow; have some fun with the play aspect and some paint. If you need the chassis later your ready...if you don't fall in love with your creation, lol.

  There's always styrene and filler too. A least its mostly flat panels.

JB WeldNever sanded sanded, and a bad color mix too. A huge chip gone, spider cracking would have ended this one.

A better series of 3 mixes. The whole step and riser is JBW as well as 1.5" of sidewall corner, right to the rivet line. The first two areas, a perfect color match

The last coat was a little light, but hey, I didn't have to paint and still could, further smoothing this.( remember how harsh the camera is; in person, you can't tell without very close inspection.

Here you can see wall thickness on my side is thicker and cruder.

The forward risers to the edges of the firemans step is JBW, the tread top is original, but was hanging into space at first. I form with plastic wrap and lift when partially cured (there's a perfect release time, too short it mushes/stretches the mold, too long it sticks in wrinkles, a tiny pita) I form on it and/or plastic wrap with wet pottery tools, and wet fingers sometimes, once soft but partially cured that is.

The frame is wood and on it an old caboose frame split for length. Bracket for weight and to staighten a slight twist warp in the wood.

You can also lightly coat a heavy threaded screw with grease or oil and surround it in JBW. It should mold theads as it sets up and release the screw if coated well.(best for stronger items due to screws sticking sometimes on removal. Test the method a few times.)