5TH EDITION 916 KORBER POWER PLANT HELP

Jim

i only use super glue to put the windows in. There is time before the glue sets up. I normally use the accelerator on one end after I line it up. I assume the windows you have for the kit are plastic and not the laser cut wood ones. If the gap on the opening is too wide, you can add a styrene strip to widen the window.

as far as warpage on the walls after painting, I do not think it is a problem. As you put the building together you can always add additional bracing.

if you want to talk about this more you can call me or e mail me and I will help.

alan graziano

The old Korber kits could definitely be difficult. I've built of lot of them but don't recall that kind of window problem. One suggestion might be for those that don't fit property is to add some small styrene or even wood strip wood inside the frames. If painted black you might not see them but it would hide the spaces. Ideally you would make the opening the exact size so the windows would fit well. If that's too difficult and it may very well be, you might try putting the strips behind where the window goes in so the window has something to rest on and to which it can be glued. If the spacing is small between the window opening and the window, I don't think you'd really notice the strips. After adding the strips, and glueing in the windows you could also add some filler (putty or caulking) so the spacing is brought flush with the window frame. 

As far as warping, that was pretty common back then. The solution I used was to brace the backs of the walls with heavy (e.g. 1/4"-1/2") strip wood, glued with 5-minute epoxy and held with clamps until cured. That almost always straightened them out. To minimize the warping, you could also heat the walls with a hair dryer then immediately weight them down with heavy books, etc. and leave for an hour or so. 

Hope this helps. Good luck. 

Jim:

I have built some of the older kits also. what you are experiencing was common. I will echo what Alan and Jerrman said.

Thin styrene strips (will need to use CA glue) insdie the frames will work.

To line up the widows use a ruler to either line up the bottoms or the tops.

As for warpage I have tried the old method of heating the walls in an oven and placing weights on them and had limited success. I now use Alan's method of bracing the walls. I also add hardboard  interior walls where appropriate to help with the bracing. Also adding a floor helps a lot.

Joe