Williams by Bachmann Reverse Unit Question

None of the many WbB dcru had a lock out feature. I use them in other brands to fix fried boards. 

AMCDAVE, are you talking about a TMCC board?  This is a conventional reverse unit.  The Owners "manual" that I downloaded indicates it has a lock out switch. However, mine may be a prior version that didn't have that feature.

Dean

I was only referring to the WbB conventional DCRU (reverse board) that Williams and Bachmann has been selling for a number of years as repair or aftermarket parts.  I may have used ten of them....none had a lock out option. I switched to Dallee units when the WbB dried up so new/current version could be different. 

Ah, OK.  Well, I figured if it had that feature I would add the switch.  But I'm thinking it doesn't, and so I'll just fix the tether and leave it be.

Dean

I'm not sure if still available but Williams website had a drawing on how to add a switch to E unit. If you can't get it off website email me your address and I'll send you a copy.  Lenny J

This is the same board that is used with twin motors too. Thats why the extra sockets are there.

Rob

OLDROB is right in that for the twin motor diesel engines both the 4-pin sockets are used (one for each motor).  The top 2-pin socket is not used and normally has a big red X drawn on it.

The Williams web site posts two modifications you can do with that board.  One is a "reverse lockout" mod and the other is a "start in reverse" mod.  Both modifications require custom soldering to the board that voids any warranty.

dean,

here you go (attached pdf) Yours is the earlier board pdf. I didn't find the mod instructions.

edit: found them on the Williams forum (see attached)

Did the pin fix get it running?

Have fun!

Lenny J, thanks for the offer to email the instructions, but it looks like Carl has found what I need. Carl, thanks for this. Installation looks pretty straight forward. I won't get a chance to modify the board until this weekend, but I'll post back the results. Thanks again for all the help!

Dean

Carl, I did test the pins for the motor and the motor runs fine. It is hard to see in this picture, but the 4th pin from the bottom is pushed back into the tether receptacle on the engine. That pin and the one below it go to the motor.  I also tested the tender tether plug connections and confirmed the reverse unit is working, so I just need to anchor the pin in the receptacle so that it does not submarine back into the receptacle when the tender tether is plugged in.

Well, after reviewing again the instructions for installing a reverse lock-out switch, I realized that this requires three wires be run to the engine, but the tether only has two open pins.  So, I think I will leave well enough alone.  I bought this engine to repair and re-sell, so since it came from the factory without this switch, I'm just going to fix the tether pin issue, confirm everything works OK, and then pass it on to a new owner.  They can decide for themselves if they want to add this feature.

Thanks again for all the info.

Dean

Why not just put the switch on the tender where the reverse board is?  Easy to do and solves the problem of the three wires.

I thought about that, but decided I didn't want to modify a like-new engine too much that I was going to sell. Then again it is a feature most folks who run conventional would probably like to have.  Perhaps I'll reconsider that solution.  Thanks John.

FWIW, these, unlike most other Wms die-cast steamers, have really good, low gearing. 

This is one that I modified for the AT&N (fairly close), re-tendered (die-cast tender from 1940's - using the original trucks!), and added ERR Cruise Commander/Electrocoupler.

The gearing is so good that I used the ERR DC Commander, not the Cruise Commander - it didn't need it; the low-speed performance is that good. 

Is that the Senco sound tender that you added? I considered doing that, but the tender seemed too wide.