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Originally Posted by G3:

I Which thickness should I buy or do you have a better recommendation?

 

 

It's all a personal preference, what works best for installation, what looks best when done.

 

For me, a thicker acetate is preferred.  The thinner stocks (.003/.005) are too flimsy to work with, sometimes end up a bit 'wrinkled' or wavy on larger windows/panes for my liking.

 

Evergreen makes a clear styrene in .010 (9006) and .015 (9007) thickness.  Either of those is preferable to moi.  Unfortunately, Evergreen has been going through some change of ownership, or some such disruption, and the clear sheets (esp. 9007) have been out-of-stock for a bit.  They'll be back, though.  Of course, there are other purveyors of sheet styrene/acetate, too.

 

FWIW, always...

 

KD

Last edited by dkdkrd
Originally Posted by dkdkrd:

Evergreen makes a clear styrene in .010 (9006) and .015 (9007) thickness.  Either of those is preferable to moi.  Unfortunately, Evergreen has been going through some change of ownership, or some such disruption, and the clear sheets (esp. 9007) have been out-of-stock for a bit.  They'll be back, though.  Of course, there are other purveyors of sheet styrene/acetate, too.

 

FWIW, always...

 

KD

Agreed......,010 or .015 styrene is perfect. Plastruct has it in stock, sheets are bigger than evergreen and the folks at Plastruct are great to work with....give them a call.

I too use blank transparency paper for clear windows and picked some up at Office Depot last week for 50 cents per single sheet. They sell it behind the counter at the copy center area, just ask. Works well & cheap. They also carry vellum paper for translucent windows. 

 

Whatever you decide to do, good luck. Sounds like a fun project. 

 

Copter

Last edited by Copter
Originally Posted by Copter:

I too use blank transparency paper for clear windows and picked some up at Office Depot last week for 50 cents per single sheet. They sell it behind the counter at the copy center area, just ask. Works well & cheap. They also carry vellum paper for translucent windows. 

Me, too.   Another advantage is that transparency paper can be run through an ink-jet printer, allowing one to print on muntins, signage and other details.

Thank-you, everyone, for your suggestions. I guess I had no idea there were so many ways to make windows. I was looking through a desk drawer and found a package of inkjet transparencies, so I'll start with that. I kind of like the idea of printing on them if you want to. I'll also get a sheet or two of vellum paper at the local office supply and try it. My wife saved me a milk container...that goes in my collection to try also.

 

Just in passing I'd like to say that I belong to several other forums that focus on my musical and gardening interests. Not a single one of them is as helpful and congenial as this forum. We have much to be proud of.

 

George (G3)

 

 

 

Where do you get the glass slip covers?  All the ones I can find are plastic.

 

 

We (LHS) sell them...they're part of our Science section...it's an item used with microscope slides....very thin clear glass rectangles to cover a specimen on a glass slide.

 

But, depending on your area, your LHS or establishment that serves science departments locally will surely have them.

 

Or on-line.....as usual.

 

KD

Good information.
 
Originally Posted by Copter:

I too use blank transparency paper for clear windows and picked some up at Office Depot last week for 50 cents per single sheet. They sell it behind the counter at the copy center area, just ask. Works well & cheap. They also carry vellum paper for translucent windows. 

 

Whatever you decide to do, good luck. Sounds like a fun project. 

 

Copter

 

Originally Posted by Trainman2001:

My big complaint with acetate is you can't use solvent cements with it. You have to use CA or canopy cement which is PVA. Styrene glues nicely into styrene frames with just a touch of solvent. If you using wood or paper frames then either works equally as well since you can't use solvent cements.


I've used "foam safe CA" with great results...no fog!

I've never had to glue acetate, as the windows I've done popped right into the frame. 
 
"Foam Safe CA" is something I'll consider for flush mounting.  Thanks for the info.  
 
Copter 
 
 
Originally Posted by Trainman2001:

My big complaint with acetate is you can't use solvent cements with it. You have to use CA or canopy cement which is PVA. Styrene glues nicely into styrene frames with just a touch of solvent. If you using wood or paper frames then either works equally as well since you can't use solvent cements.


I've used "foam safe CA" with great results...no fog!

 

Originally Posted by Copter:
Clever idea re: the microscope slides. 

Are they cut by scoring them like plexiglass and then bending along the score mark?

Once installed, any issues w/ breakage?
 
Copter
 
 
 
 
Originally Posted by Scotie:

They're not too hard to find. You might start here cover slips

Scotie

 

Cut with a diamond scribe - a few steady passes and the glass will separate on its own.

Breakage - sure! It's really thin glass, but you can make a nice broken glass window with it that looks just like........broken glass!

mwb,

 

Really good idea for modelling a scene requiring broken glass.

Your idea might be an excellent suggestion for this thread: 

 

What's your favourite repurposed item on your layout?

 

Cut with a diamond scribe - a few steady passes and the glass will separate on its own.

Breakage - sure! It's really thin glass, but you can make a nice broken glass window with it that looks just like........broken glass!

 

Last edited by Copter
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