Skip to main content

I was going to ask this question in the coupler thread, but felt it deserve it own thread.

 

In putting the Atlas trucks back together, I'm having a difficult time in putting the springs back into the sideframes and was wondering if there was a easier way to place them back onto the cast on nubs? One thing that I am doing as a precaution in order to prevent losing any springs is placing the truck inside a large clear Zip-lock bag so if the springs do pop off, the bag would catch it before it vanishes into the realm of lost things (the home of many lost Kadee and Micro-Trains springs and other assorted parts that I've managed to lose over the years). Even so, it still doesn't help me in my quest to reattach the spring to the truck.

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

Robyn (CarolinaRail)

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I use those small jewelers flat head screwdrivers to compress the springs. I find placing one end onto the nub, then compressing the spring with a small jeweler's flat head screwdriver until it can clear the upper nub.

 

smart that you do this in a clearplastic bag as those springs EASILY shoot out and they are tough to find on the floor!

+1 here, but I've also used Ken's method.
 
Originally Posted by prrhorseshoecurve:

I use those small jewelers flat head screwdrivers to compress the springs. I find placing one end onto the nub, then compressing the spring with a small jeweler's flat head screwdriver until it can clear the upper nub.

 

smart that you do this in a clearplastic bag as those springs EASILY shoot out and they are tough to find on the floor!

 

Thanks everyone. Someone had mention the threaded spring trick a few years ago so that's worth a shot. But my luck with Atlas trucks has gone from poor to rotten since last night.

 

Early on, I've used a jewelers flathead screwdriver to help move the spring around, but was afraid of launching them and switched over to my thumbnail. After 3 trucks in 90 minutes, the tip of my thumb had started to blister, not to mention that I was starting to get frustrated with the last truck, one that came from the new Trinity covered hopper with the working bearings caps. In addition to taking the spring off, I would have to pop off the caps so that I could get the wheelsets out.

 

After many choice adjectives, I've managed to get the caps popped off, and the truck assembled, I've made a horrifying discovery.....the axle on the truck as it turn out was different than the pointed axle that was used with the wheelsets that came with the 2-rail conversion kit (#7036)! The newer version has a shoulder axle rather than a point so that the caps can be attached to it.

 

What's worse is that when I called Atlas a few days ago, they assured me that the 2-rail conversion kit would work with the newer roller bearing truck designs.

 

And to top it all off...I can't take the tinplate wheels off as they are on the axle TIGHT! Any attempt that I try to make in pulling the wheels just bends the axles.

 

AGAIN, I've would have been better off and just buy a new pair of trucks and be done with it.

 

Robyn (CarolinaRail)

Last edited by CarolinaRail
Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×