AF Testing

If you are testing steam locomotives, look for loose tires/rims on the driving wheels. They can be repaired with epoxy.

Also look for loose driving wheels on the axles. I have no idea how that can be repaired, but every one that I have seen that was repaired with super glue has come loose again.

Look at the amount of smoke produced and how long the smoke continues.

The pulling power is going to be different with engines with Pul Mor wheels.,  On the bench with light and smoke unit most steamers are going to be under 1.5 amp draw.

Marty

kb0fhp posted:

As recommended by the forum, I am going to set up a small oval to verify operation of the AF trains and accessorizes.  Regarding the locomotives, what should I look for for proper operation?  I know forward and reverse, but should I also be looking at amp draw, pull power of engines (using a small fish scale), etc.?  Any suggestions?

Scott

The Gilbert Service Station documents specified speed and current draw of their locomotives, if operating properly.  

For example, for a 374-375 T&P GP7 set, the service manual states, "On a 160" oval of track, Locomotive to run a minimum of 9 R.P.M. or 9 times forward and reverse.  Not to draw more than 2.5 amps while pulling 4 boxcars"

For a 365 Santa Fe dual motor AB unit, the service manual states, "On a 180" oval of track, Locomotive to run a minimum of 9 1/2 R.P.M. or 9 1/2 times forward and reverse.  Not to draw more than 3.25 amps while pulling 3 passenger cars"

For a 336 Northern steam locomotive, the service manual states, "On a 140" oval of track, Locomotive to run a minimum of 11 R.P.M. or 11 times forward.    On a 140" oval of track, Locomotive to run a minimum of 10 R.P.M. or 10 times reverse.  (Under Load) Not to draw more than 2 amps while pulling 4 Box or Cattle cars.  (Unloaded) Not to draw more than 1.3 amps."

K-Line published a collection of the old AF Service Station documents in the 1980s that includes these specification and exploded parts diagrams for all major locomotive types.  This book comes up on eBay from time to time and is worth acquiring if you do your own repairs.  There are 2 available on eBay (search for "Complete Service Manual for American Flyer Trains").

I was also able to find many of these SErvice Station documents scanned and online at: https://traindr.com/manuals/

Attached are the examples I referenced.

RoyBoy posted:

If you are testing steam locomotives, look for loose tires/rims on the driving wheels. They can be repaired with epoxy.

Also look for loose driving wheels on the axles. I have no idea how that can be repaired, but every one that I have seen that was repaired with super glue has come loose again.

 

Look at the amount of smoke produced and how long the smoke continues.

Regarding loose drivers on steam engines, I learned a trick from Joe Haenn a few years ago.  Remove the loose wheel and disassemble it.  Set aside the steel tire and white plastic insulator, and place the cast wheel hub on a flat concrete floor or driveway, and using a ball peen hammer, give it a couple of hard whacks dead center.  This compresses the hub and allows it to grip the axle once again.  Works like a charm.

Dean

Dean,

Are you striking the back face or front of the hub?  Using the round head or flat head of the ball peen hammer?  Thanks.  I'm assuming back face and rounded head, but wanted to confirm that with you.  

I generally place it face down and strike it on the back using the flat head of the hammer.  You want to hit it on the hub as squarely as possible dead center on the axle hole.  A couple of good whacks will do it.  

Dean