Any Hot Tips For Putting Up Backdrops?

Stick it on masonite and tack that up.

Makes it removable and re-useable as well as letting you work flat & smooth in mounting it.

I am with Russell on this one...attach your "printed sheet backdrop" to a piece of Masonite or similar hardboard that you can work with at your desk or work table.  Attach by setting bottom on benchwork of layout and simply using small brads along the top that help keep the Masonite from sagging over the years.

 

If the backdrop runs along the center of a table/island style layout section you will have a couple of options that work well enough...

 

First, you can (during construction, but it sounds like you are past that phase) attach the backdrop to sturdy framing below the top of the layout...in other words, build "around" the backdrop rather than add it later.

 

Second, if you already have the layout in place and you are retro-fitting to a "table top", if possible, "cut a slit" in the center of the table top that you can slide the Masonite in, attach bracing below the table top then remove Masonite and attach backdrop.

 

Third, "IF" you can "hide" it, attach a small piece of wood on top of the layout and screw the Masonite to that.  I used this approach on one HO layout.  The "base" I used was whatever scraps I had (2x4 in a couple of places, 1x4 and 1x2 in others) as one side was going to be covered by a hillside, allowing me to completely hide the base on that side.  How did I hide the screws?  Well, where possible, I placed "puff ball trees/shurbs" and structures, etc.  It lasted several years without any hint of "sag" before I had to take down the entire railroad.  I used the same technique on my next layout...however, I elected to use smaller wood pieces.

 

Another option for a shelf layout is to screw a base along the back and affix the backdrop to the front of the base.

 

Using the above option on a table top/island, you could use "twice as much Masonite" by simply putting the "screw base" along the center and putting Masonite sheets on both sides.  You can put a small piece of the base material on the visible ends and painting "sky" color.

 

Finally...and this is worthy of notice...

 

A friend elected to use sheet vinyl flooring in the corners to permit a smoother curved corner.  Where the vinyl meets the Masonite or other backdrop, you can smooth the joint with spackling.

I'm going to hire a wall-paper hanger expert to put up the Backdrop Warehouse stuff ... when we get to that point ....

Great idea!  Maybe after years of procastrination, I'll follow Rod's lead.  Maybe..

 

Seriously, that's a good idea and the seed has been planted....

 

George

You should put up the masonite first, your walls may NOT be perfectly flat. Put up the Masonite and let it adjust to the room a few days. We used 2" carpet tape along the top and sides. Works like a champ, lets it hang naturally, and easy to re-position if needed when you first install it. Just don't press it down tight onto the tape until you have it exactly where you want it. 

I used the carpet tape as well, I ran two runs near the top, and then some on the sides.  This let the backdrop hand on the wall and no noticeable wrinkles.  Also the use of a laser level really helps to get it hung straight.

 

I used smaller double backed tape to tape the seams between sections

My round-the-room layout is only 9x16 with 13-1/4" rise from benchwork to ceiling pitch rising from top of the kneewall. A skinny Backdrop to say the least but using 1/8"x13-1/4"x 8' Masonite, panels I planned to remove and place on easels and have an Artist decorate. i primed it a couple of coats,sanded it and painted it sky blue. As a result of this plan I Velcroed the panels to the wall for easy removal and reattachment.

 

However health issues stymied me for over two years on layout work and the panels remain sky blue blank. All my structures and building fronts are also spot velcroed for easy removal and reattachment as are the back drop panels,when and if I ever get around to the art work.

 

Old photos below show some of the scene.....

 

 

 

 

Dewey:  Unless your town is supposed to be smack in the middle of forests or mountains, I would leave it as it is today.  Looks good to me.  It matches my current layout backdrop...more or less.  (smile)

 

I did a pretty fair job of painting my HO layout backdrop, if I do say so myself.  I had a friend help me get started...that layout was set in the Ozarks/Ouachita Mountains south of Ft Smith Ark.  So...using 2 or 3 shades of green paint, I got the basic shape of the hills (mountains?) on the wall in layers...more distant, more gray...closer, more green.  Then I used 3 or 4 sponge cut outs to represent trees on the distant hill sides...closer hills got Hydrocal land forms with similar paint and puff ball trees. 

 

I got most of the technique from Dave Frary's book and video on "water soluble scenery". 

Russel;

That sounds like a great idea, but the sections are 36" x 12' long.

Where would I ever find 12'  long masonite or tempered board I wonder.

 

Lots of other great ideas here all.

Please keep them coming.

 

Rod

I highly recommend AGAINST putting the backdrop on the Masonite 1st, and then putting up the Masonite. For several reasons, besides the initial expense of the backdrop and having to handle it twice to install. We put up about 36' of the 42" backdrops, and I was nervous the entire time as that's a lot of $$ to have an "oops" with.

 

If you put the backdrop on the Masonite 1st, how will you secure the Masonite to the wall? 

 

I also highly recommend from experience, using the 3/16" (1/4") stuff and not the 1/8" stuff. Especially on a 12' run, the 1/8" is too flimsy and bow in or out, in between mounting locations. You will notice the waviness (is that even a word) of it.

We cut the white border off the top.

 

Would also recommend from experience, to put the backdrops on the wall before you even start the bench work....if of course you know the heights where they should be. It would make it so much easier than crawling around on sheets of plywood on top of the bench work.

 

 

 

 

When I put up my backdrop, I used 3/32 fiberglass panels from Lowes.  The advantage to me was that it was thinner than masonite and much more flexible. I was able to bend it in the corners.  Once I mounted the fiberglass panel, I used double sided carpet tape to secure the backdrops.  I also did what Rich said and used double sided tape to put the seams together. 

 

Good luck with the project.

Wow it seems there are pros and cons regarding the masonite panel idea.

I think I will research availability of 12' long panels and go from there.

My thought for fastening the completed panels to the wall was to use velcro as needed. This is as per Dewey's suggestion.

One worry in bending panels around corners is possible wrinkling of the backdrop.

Anyone had that problem?

 

Rod

Rod, I would like to propose a different line of thinking if I may.

 

No doubt about it the backdrop prints are fanstastic. However I stay away from them because they give the perspective that the background is sharper in detail then whats before them. I also want to create a backdrop that I can remove easily for modification or detailing after the layout is being created.

 

Thus my process is to paint my walls a sky blue. I use modular building drawings mounted on gater board to create individual sceens. The gater board is attached to the walls with velcrow. My focus is on adding at much detail and dimension to the scene to make a visitor believe the building has more depth.

 

The attached photo shows how I treated one corner by elevating the streets and having them extend over the layout only about 3 -4".

 

Modular drawings are available on my web site www.westportmodelworks.com

 

 

 

they never did as far as I know.Everything they recommended when I did my last one  ruined the media.Thats what made me use the carpet tape. Carpet tape is the only way to go imho. Use it very sparingly along the top and let the backdrop hang.No bubbles no seams .If you could cut the roll long ways (1" wide )it would be perfect but I didn't have any luck cause it was so gummy. . That Velcro idea may work out good as well if you attach it to the back of the media and and the board at the top

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rod,

As I mentioned in your previous thread on this topic, tacking the top and bottom of the backdrop to thin wooden strips and suspending the entire thing like a curtain is simple, removable and very effective.   You can read about it here:

 

Curtain backdrop

 

 

NewHaven;

Those buildings look great IMO.

I particularly like the skewed dimensions of the one on the right, so as to create an illusion of depth. Nice work.

 

Patrick;

I appreciate your thoughts.

When I was ordering the extra panel recently I mentioned to Don at BW that I was planning on using carpet tape because the layout is existing, and I figured rubber cement would be too messy.

He suggested if using carpet tape, to also use tacks or staples along the top to prevent creep and minimize the chance of bowing and waving of the media.

So this may be the best way to go.

Still pondering the various options.

Man, the backdrop project may go back into the "to do another day" tank at this rate. Trouble is that tank is getting kind of full!

 

Rod

 

Avanti;

Thanks for the reminder and the link to the old thread. I thought it was long gone.

I knew there was another idea floating around that I should reconsider. I think your method might be the way to go.

Since I don't want the backdrop to stick out too far from the wall I will likley search out a fairly flat molding and glue/staple the backdrop to it, then fasten the molding to the wall with finishing nails or something similar. I don't mind having a few holes in the drywall; they can be patched up later if needs be.

Have you had any issues with the backdrop sagging or detaching since you installed it?

 

Rod

We got the carpet tape idea from Patrick H and Rich from Korber Models. It works great, even in the corners. Go slow across the top and let the backdrop hang naturally and you won't get any wrinkles...anywhere. We also used carpet tape on the ends, and joints, but let the bottom hang loose. After putting up 36' of it, I couldn't imagine using rubber cement to glue it up, but I know several people have.

 

You need at least 2 people to hang them no matter which method you go with, and 3 people is even better. 

Rod,

The only problem I had was with the attachment of one of the fishline pieces to the suspended ceiling, but that was my fault. Hanging the assembly is not a one-person job (especially going around a corner), and that is how I did it. 

 

It is important to get the geometry right--everything taut and level. But once it is in place, the weight of the bottom strip keeps the backdrop perfectly flat and stiff. It is really a pretty good technique.

Laidoffsick;

I like the look of how your backdrop turned out. You had the big advantage of putting them up before the layout was built. Great time to do it.

I may still go with the carpet tape idea, and if I do I will let the bottom hang free as you have suggested, and as Patrick did.

Still got time to ponder the alternatives, but for sure the rubber cement idea is out.

 

Rod

If the mounting surface is smooth, use 3M or Krylon photo-mount adhesive It will not bleed through to the front of the backdrop and can be repositioned easily if necessary. They come in a spray can and can be purchased at any arts and crafts store.

Richard;

Interesting idea.

Have you put up backdrop using this stuff?

I would be worried about creep and sagging that may cause bulges.

One possible idea might be spray on contact adhesive. Anyone tried this idea?

 

Rod

 

I wish I thought of this sooner. I used this on some of my backdrops and it works great. It works better than rubber cement, it doesn’t dry out and lose adhesion. Air bubbles and sagging are not problems. Regular spray adhesive should be avoided, You lose the ability to reposition so you only get one try to mount it correctly

Richard;

Sounds intriguing.

I think I will see if I can find it at the local Michaels.

Would you coat the entire backdrop, or just a band along the top 6" and the ends perhaps?

 

Rod

 

Rod

 

I world coat the entire backdrop, you don't want air space behind it.

I was thinking just the opposite. I have always found it very difficult to use any kind of a spray adhesive over large areas of paper without ending up with bubbles somewhere or other. I'm sure it can be done, but I have not found it easy.  That is one reason why I have gravitated to  free-hanging paper weighted on the bottom.   I have never tried a strip of adhesive along the top of a free-hanging sheet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

As you can see by the responses there are a million ways to hang backdrop.  It is much easier if you had done it before the layout benchwork was up. I used rubber cement on mine but I did it before the layout  Out of all the suggestions I like Russells idea of mounting it on Masonite and then just putting the Masonite behind your scenery.  I wouldn't let these backdrops hang freely because you will probably see waves and your seams won't look too good.  I took a piece of the backdrop sky and brought it to Home Depot to match the color.  I painted the whole room this color so there are less noticeable seams.  Backdrop Warehouse also sells these things called EZ Cut clouds that your able to add clouds over seams

 

blueline;

I really like how your backdrops turned out. Definitely you installed them at the right time. Like a dummy, I did not unfortunately.

Is that your highline up near the ceiling?

It's going to be quite a grade getting up there! Can you say "cograil?"

(Just kidding)

 

Rod

 

Same here ... the benchwork is up ... and now I have to put in the backdrop ... ugh.

Well you might say its the "High" line because that is where the Coors Bullet runs 

My hat is off to you, sir for successfully purchasing from Backdrop Warehouse. Did you get your order in through their website, or did you get assistance in placing the order? I never could find pricing for what I was wanting to buy.

 

Rude does not approach how I was treated when I called attempting to place an order. I knew what scenes I wanted, and the sizes. Money-in-hand I was insulted and hung-up on. Even now, I would still have liked to have purchased one of their backdrops for my train room. I'm really not satisfied with what I have up right now....

 

Gilly

 

I did just check (again, again) and the website is just as deplorable as ever....

Two rules

 

Rule 1: Put the backdrop up before wood comes into the house.

Rule 2: Always follow Rule 1

Blueline,

I agree that your backdrop looks really nice.  Great work.

 

I am curious about your "probably see waves" comment. What were the circumstances under which this occurred? I have never seen this happen using the curtain method, assuming that it was hung straight and level from a rigid top support.

 

As for the seams, they will be as good or as bad as you make them. With modern roll-fed printers, you can print extremely long strips, so you can usually avoid seams entirely. If you do need them, the best thing is to crop the images so they overlap about an inch and then attach them with rubber cement. Again, done properly they will hang perfectly.

 

The other advantage of curtain-style mounting is that it is easy to produce smooth radii around corners that make them almost invisible:

 

 

 

Blueline....you say you would see waves and the seems won't look too good? hmmm

 

These hang freely and have a seem... can you find either? And I'll give you a hint... The seem is NOT where the Masonite seem is  

 

Scrappy;

Where were you when I needed you?

Kidding aside, I wish I had done it that way, but hey that was 1998.

Who knew the layout would still be up?

 

Rod

Gilly;

Sorry to hear you were mistreated. You must have caught him at a bad moment (not that I ever have those mind you.........)

 

I bought the first 3 backdrops from a forum member, who had ordered them several years previous, but never used them. The 3 scene panels he had were perfect for my application. When I got to looking at where to put them up, I realized I needed an addition reversed panel to cover one blank wall.

I knew the stock number, so I just got on the phone, and about 5 minutes later it was on order. The gentleman at BW (Don I think?) was quite cordial and I had the new panel within about 10 days. The colours do not perfectly match (which he warned me about), but I will make the transition in a corner where it won't be so noticable.

 

I know what you mean about the website; that has been a subject of great debate here on the forum for a few years now. But if you find the scenes you want, its best to just get on the phone and place the order IMO. I would not let one bad experience hold you back if a really nice backdrop is what you want.

 

Rod

 

 

Put it on 1/16 polycarbonate sheet. Use a quality 3-M spray adhesive. It will conform to just about any curve. If you hang it it will drape nice. Will not absorb moisture. Light weight. Last forever. Reasonable cost. Sheet styrene is even less expensive but can break, crack and will eventually deteriorate turn yellow and little UV resistance if near a window.