Applying dry transfer decals?

Make sure the area is clean. I use a dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener to rub the transfer paper.  I like to rub the paper both vertically and horizontally to ensure that the lettering/numbers adhere to the loco/car.  Carefully lift one edge and see if the complete letter/number transferred.  If not, lay the paper back down and rub it again.

The transfers made by Janice Bennet years ago were the best ones.  They transferred very easily.  The new ones seem to be more difficult to get a good transfer (even if they are used immediately after purchase).  I have pretty much given up on them and have switched to rubber stamps.

You can burnish the letters after transfer with the cover paper (basically re-rubbing the letters to ensure adheasion).  They can be overcoated, if desired, immediately.

I have used dry transfers extensively, mainly those produced by CDS decals and prefer them to water decals in some cases. There is no waiting after transferring them, you can clear coat them immediately. A few tips to help you which I have learned from trial & error:

• they will not apply well on a gloss or shiny surface, you must dullcoat the shell first to give the decal paint something to "bite" on. This is the opposite to water decals
• In the case of lettering, it is important that the decal is aligned, sometimes a light pencil line helps to keep it horizontal. The tape mentioned in the next bullet will help keep it in position.
• You have to make sure that the decal, once positioned, will remain in place while burnishing (rubbing the lettering). I usually use a small piece of low tack tape (masking tape) to hold one side (or both) of the decal. You must hold the other side with your fingers to keep it tight and prevent it from moving while burnishing.
• There are two stages to burnishing, first transferring the paint from the decal to the shell which should be done with a light to medium pressure. Having the tape on one side allows you to "hinge" the work to check that all the paint has been transferred as Jon indicates above. If you n.otice a piece or corner hasn't transferred you can hinge it back and burnish that corner again. If you press too hard at this stage, you can distort the paint. Burnish in all directions, horizontally and vertically as Jon suggests. Second, the decal comes with a semi transparent shiny cover, which is thicker than the decal paper, to protect the paint side, use this to do the final burnishing with more pressure to set the decal paint on the shell.
• The decal must be covered with a gloss, semi gloss/satin or dull coat to protect it, otherwise it can be scratched off.
• I invested in two burnishing tools that I got from an art store. It is a small cylindrical or pen-like tool that has a small, smooth metal ball on the tip. One has a smaller ball for more intricate decals but you could get by with one medium tip. Jon suggests a sharpened dowel which would work also but you have to be careful not to puncture the paper. I find the rounded ball burnisher ideal.

Good luck!

Mike

Thanks guys.

I bought a burnishing tool from P&D when I got the decals.  I should be able to apply them tomorrow.  I will post some photos when I am done.

I did like mike said,
for random letters try to cut them out with even spacing on both sides. This makes all the letters/ numbers look the same distance apart.
I lay down a strip of blue painters tape face up on a work board and using the edge of the tape as the bottom of my transfers I lay the individual letters in place.

Now although I can't see my letters when I place it I do know the edge of the tape is the bottom . Once in place rub it real good I like the round ball as well . Remove the blue tape and the transfer paper will come with it and your numbers and letters will be spaced and aligned perfectly .

David

Sounds like a great tip. 

This post is very timely.  I have a planned locomotive repaint and my dry transfer letters/numbers just arrived yesterday.

Thanks for posting the tips, everyone.

Mike, I'm glad you mentioned not applying these to gloss paint.  That is what I was going to do.  I'll do a dull coat and gloss over, as you suggested.  I actually have a rounded metal tip burnishing tool from doing chrome foil on diecast cars, so I'll use that.

I just applied my frist decals to the locomotive, and it went on really well and easy.  

The tender will have to wait till tonight or tomorrow since the paint is not cured enough yet.

I also need to get some dull coat to spray on after.

Here is the 90% finished product.

I just have to add the numbers to the side of the headlights and a tender capacity decal for the back of the tender.

I also plan to do some light weathering in the future.  I have another 0-8-0 switcher that will be painted the same and be numbered 2.  These are the only 2 locomotives my rail road owns.  It is served by the Pere Marquette with her berks and the Ann Arbor.  

Here is my Michigan & Great Lakes 0-8-0 switcher moving some hoppers to the elevator to be filled.