Atlas Electrical Controllers #215

One more thing:

If you believe these #215 Atlas switch controllers are not good to use for sidings and accessories for O Gauge (they are considered good for HO), are there other controllers on the market that you recommend for O Gauge sidings and accessories?

Layout builders have made their own homemade block controllers using stuff from Radio Shack, but I'm hoping to avoid doing this. Arnold

They are not rated for the current our O gauge trains draw, and overheat.  I doubt you will do damage to the trains with a switch that has melted closed.

Atlas makes a heavy duty version of this as part of their "Atlas O" product line.  

HD CONNECTOR

It's about double the price of the Connector.

Good luck.

-Jim

Jim Harrington posted:

They are not rated for the current out O gauge trains draw, and overheat.  I doubt you will do damage to the trains with a switch that has melted closed.

Atlas make an heavy duty version of this as part of their "Atlas O" product line.  

HD CONNECTOR

It's about double the price of the Connector.

 

Good luck.

-Jim

Thanks a million, Jim. I did not know about this heavy duty Atlas connector. I was hoping that such a product existed. Can they be purchased from Atlas on the Internet? It looks like they can from your reply. I will Google it. Arnold

Do these products have specs?

Boy, kind of sad, no specs, no instructions, bare minimal info on the Atlas website. The HD selector #6929 looks very interesting but with very little added info how does Atlas expect people to buy it?

Steve

Arnold,

I have two Atlas O Selectors of the type pictured below to control the mainline track power on my 12-by-8 layout. Each selector controls power to three blocks. This looks similar to the #6929 HD Selector on the Atlas O website which they recommend for O-scale and large-scale trains. I don't generally run at currents greater than about 3 Amperes with my modern trains but these have operated trouble free for 20 years on my layout.

As to your concern about starting up engines on sidings with your present #215 controllers, if the siding is an isolated block, current will pass through the controller only when the train (or engine) is on the siding and will become zero when the train moves off the siding. At low speed, the voltage and current draw are low and last only for a few seconds until the train moves off the block, so I don't think there would be a problem with heat in the controller. Have you ever had problems with these controllers overheating?

MELGAR

MELGAR posted:

Arnold,

I have two Atlas O Selectors of the type pictured below to control the mainline track power on my 12-by-8 layout. Each selector controls power to three blocks. This looks similar to the #6929 HD Selector on the Atlas O website which they recommend for O-scale and large-scale trains. I don't generally run at currents greater than about 3 Amperes with my modern trains but these have operated trouble free for 20 years on my layout.

As to your concern about starting up engines on sidings with your present #215 controllers, if the siding is an isolated block, current will pass through the controller only when the train (or engine) is on the siding and will become zero when the train moves off the siding. At low speed, the voltage and current draw are low and last only for a few seconds until the train moves off the block, so I don't think there would be a problem with heat in the controller. Have you ever had problems with these controllers overheating?

MELGAR

Melgar, No, I have never used those. I've only used #215 Connectors , and a few times they did overheat and melt.

Last night I bought on the Internet 3 HD #6929 Atlas O Connectors, which I will use for my 8 sidings. I will use the #215 Connectors that I already have for my accessories. Arnold.

Arnold D. Cribari posted:

MELGAR posted:

Arnold,

I have two Atlas O Selectors of the type pictured below to control the mainline track power on my 12-by-8 layout. Each selector controls power to three blocks. This looks similar to the #6929 HD Selector on the Atlas O website which they recommend for O-scale and large-scale trains. I don't generally run at currents greater than about 3 Amperes with my modern trains but these have operated trouble free for 20 years on my layout.

As to your concern about starting up engines on sidings with your present #215 controllers, if the siding is an isolated block, current will pass through the controller only when the train (or engine) is on the siding and will become zero when the train moves off the siding. At low speed, the voltage and current draw are low and last only for a few seconds until the train moves off the block, so I don't think there would be a problem with heat in the controller. Have you ever had problems with these controllers overheating?

MELGAR

Melgar, No, I have never used those. I've only used #215 Connectors , and a few times they did overheat and melt.

Last night I bought on the Internet 3 HD #6929 Atlas O Connectors, which I will use for my 8 sidings. I will use the #215 Connectors that I already have for my accessories. Arnold.

I used those for over 6 years on my o gauge layout with no problem.  No layout now due to moving, but next layout i plan on using mini toggle switches...

I've unintentionally acquired many Atlas #215 selectors. They are intended for use with the likes of N and HO which have a much smaller power draw than our O Gauge trains. However, I have used them for decades on O gauge trains without fault - from my perspective, I didn't explicitly pay for them, and if they blew up, I could then spend money on the "right" thing, what ever that turned out to be. So far, no issues. However, I make a habit to not switch them under load.

@Arnold D. Cribari, your picture in your first post is of a number of ATLAS #205 Connector sliding switch:

, not the titled ATLAS #215 Selector: 

I've never had the 215 Connectors, only the 205 Connectors.

I'm "switching my switches" for starting up and running my O Gauge trains on the sidings. I think the HD 6929 Atlas O Connectors is the way to go, unless one decides to make their own heavy duty homemade controls using toggle switches for their sidings.

The screws that come with this are not long enough to connect any wiring. How did you over come this?  I do not know the size the included machine screw as Home Depot does not have anything this small. 

I use spade terminals on the wire ends, then it fits just fine with the stock screws.

I attached spade lugs to the ends of the wires. The opposite ends of the spade lugs are very thin so the Atlas screws can be used. Purchased from Radio Shack.

MELGAR

Atlas has the correct spade lugs. Any good hobby shop should have them. https://shop.atlasrr.com/p-52-...pade-connectors.aspx

BTW I have been using Atlas connector switches for O gauge for 20 years and have never had a failure. I run large locos and passenger cars.

milnyc posted:

BTW I have been using Atlas connector switches for O gauge for 20 years and have never had a failure. I run large locos and passenger cars.

Same here - 20 years on an O-72 layout without a problem.

MELGAR

Arnold D. Cribari posted:

I've never had the 215 Connectors, only the 205 Connectors.

I'm "switching my switches" for starting up and running my O Gauge trains on the sidings. I think the HD 6929 Atlas O Connectors is the way to go, unless one decides to make their own heavy duty homemade controls using toggle switches for their sidings.

Hi Arnold,

Probably a little late now, but for heavy-duty, on-off switches for O-gauge layout sidings and accessories, don't overlook plain old "on-off" electrical switches that you would normally use for your household lights.  At less than a buck apiece, you could equip a whole lot of sidings and accessories on your layout for very little in cost. 

I use some of the Atlas #205 switch machines for accessories only, and my layout is 20 some odd years old. You may run trains in conventional mode, therefore adjusting track voltage variably, as required by the power needed to pull short or long trains.  I see your post, mostly postwar vintage, is of the older Lionel trains, which is fine, so, I recommend your getting A really good grade of toggle on/off switches at an electrical device store.  I would line them up on a control panel easily visible for the blocks in use.  (my layout is Lionel Legacy, controlled by TPC 400’s, w/2 -180 watt bricks via BPC’s electronic block control, Legacy/Conventional by a Cab 2 handheld controller) 

I really like your layout, the videos that you produce,  and your fondness of the Hobby. You may want to consider running your trains via a Remote Control System such as TMCC/Legacy, or DCS and use the electronic on/off switches like the ASC’s, BPC’s as they really enhance the performance of our vintage trains. That’s just an idea, it’s food for thought.  When I returned back to the model train hobby, 1996, after a 8 year absence, my friends encouraged me to try TMCC, so, I did. This is when I discovered a more realistic control of my trains, thus an addiction hard to control....Sorry if I swayed away from your Question, it’s just my answer to your block control, accessory control operation. Happy Railroading.

Good info on this thread.

I’m doing something wrong. I can’t even get their spade bridge to fit, the plastic is too thick for the screw. I ordered longer screws #3-48 and I guess I should add spacers to the base so that I don’t run into the plywood I’m attaching it to. 

Interesting topic. I have used 7 of the 4 pole DT #215 switches on my layout for over 20 years including switching them under load, without a single problem. I also tested one originally at several amps load to see if it would overheat, and it was just fine. I don't understand what all the hoopla is about. 🤠

Rod 

The spade lugs I used are cylindrical at one end into which the wire fits and have the lug on the other end.

MELGAR

MerCrewser posted:

I’m doing something wrong. I can’t even get their spade bridge to fit, the plastic is too thick for the screw. I ordered longer screws #3-48 and I guess I should add spacers to the base so that I don’t run into the plywood I’m attaching it to. 

The piece you are showing in your picture is not for use with the terminals on the top of the selector box. It's used between selector boxes to piggyback several together via the side terminals.

Yes, I wanted to demonstrate in the picture how something even this thin cannot be attached. 

I don’t think those Switches are rated very high, as i recall! I would use toggle switches mounted in a small plastic box! I wouldn’t go any lower that switches rated at 10 AMPS !!!

Here are several #215 switches on my layout daisy chained together using the flat jumper plates that come with each one. Very handy for block wiring, which is how my layout was wired originally, and still is, even though I have long since gone all command operation.

MerCrewser posted:

Yes, I wanted to demonstrate in the picture how something even this thin cannot be attached. 

If you're referring to the width of the spade, there are spades that are narrower than that. I had spade terminals that were very close but we're a tad to nsnug,  and I actually squeezed them a little with pliers actually distorting them slightly like a letter v,  and when you screw the screw down tight it flattend right out.

Train Nut posted:

MerCrewser posted:

Yes, I wanted to demonstrate in the picture how something even this thin cannot be attached. 

If you're referring to the width of the spade, there are spades that are narrower than that. I had spade terminals that were very close but we're a tad to nsnug,  and I actually squeezed them a little with pliers actually distorting them slightly like a letter v,  and when you screw the screw down tight it flattend right out.

No, the widths are fine. It’s the thickness of the material or length of the screw. I’m waiting on another one to get here that I plan to daisy chain so I guess we will see the length of the screws that are included in that package. 2 different vendors 

Zooming in on the picture it looks like there's a lot of excess metal around the screw hole. Almost like it's raised up. That might be hindering you. The screw looks plenty long from the picture.

Maybe you know this, but those fishplate connectors do not go where the red arrow is pointing below. They connect where the green arrow is pointing and are used to jumper to another #215 if needed, placed right next to this one. If you are only using one #215 they are not needed.

The only thing that connects where the red arrow is, is the wire to each track siding or block, using a #16 spade or ring type crimp terminal. The power supply from the brick or transformer connects to the opposite side terminal from where the green arrow is pointing, way over on the left side of the pic. This is the A power supply. The B power supply (if there is one) connects to the terminal at the diagonally opposite corner from where the green arrow is pointing.

Are you saying that the fishplate connector is too wide to drop down in between the two plastic ridges on either side of the screw terminal? If so, it will have to be filed on each side to make it narrow enough to fit. There is no way you should need longer screws on any terminals. The crimp terminal or fishplate needs to be sandwiched tightly between the lower metal plate (that the screw goes into), and the underside of the screw head, in each case. And shame on Atlas for producing parts that do not fit. 

Rod

Rod Stewart posted:

Maybe you know this, but those fishplate connectors do not go where the red arrow is pointing below. They connect where the green arrow is pointing and are used to jumper to another #215 if needed, placed right next to this one. If you are only using one #215 they are not needed.

The only thing that connects where the red arrow is, is the wire to each track siding or block, using a #16 spade or ring type crimp terminal. The power supply from the brick or transformer connects to the opposite side terminal from where the green arrow is pointing, way over on the left side of the pic. This is the A power supply. The B power supply (if there is one) connects to the terminal at the diagonally opposite corner from where the green arrow is pointing.

Are you saying that the fishplate connector is too wide to drop down in between the two plastic ridges on either side of the screw terminal? If so, it will have to be filed on each side to make it narrow enough to fit. There is no way you should need longer screws on any terminals. The crimp terminal or fishplate needs to be sandwiched tightly between the lower metal plate (that the screw goes into), and the underside of the screw head, in each case. And shame on Atlas for producing parts that do not fit. 

Rod

Yes, I understand all of that but I cannot get even the smallest crimp connector to fit as it’s too thick. They are small enough to fit the metal plate just fine. Very bizarre. 

That is strange for sure. I do not have any of those new style 215's but it looks like Atlas has shot themselves in the foot somehow if the screws are too short. Maybe you would be better off acquiring one or two of the old style which work great. They are frequently found at train shows and the misc electrical box at train stores. You could also post a WTB ad here on OGR. Just a suggestion.

Sorry about my previous long post, I thought for some reason you were trying to attach the fishplates to the output connections, my mistake, duh! 

Rod

Rod Stewart posted:

That is strange for sure. I do not have any of those new style 215's but it looks like Atlas has shot themselves in the foot somehow if the screws are too short. Maybe you would be better off acquiring one or two of the old style which work great. They are frequently found at train shows and the misc electrical box at train stores. You could also post a WTB ad here on OGR. Just a suggestion.

Sorry about my previous long post, I thought for some reason you were trying to attach the fishplates to the output connections, my mistake, duh! 

Rod

I appreciate your help 

So I got another selector in. The one in question is defective.  You’ll see the new one on the left works fine, with molded in threaded inserts. The defective one on the right has hex inserts, with extra hex nuts included in the factory packaging. It is completely unusable as is. I will try longer screws (3-48??) when they finally come in next week. If that doesn’t work, I wonder if Atlas might replace it?