Atlas Switches

I have a lot of both the older and newer Atlas switches.  The wiring issues with older switches is fairly easily addressed.  While I realize we all feel as though we shouldn't have to do anything like this, when fixed I still love the looks and operation of these switches.  Ross is also an excellent switch, so whatever you like will work.

 

Art

they are using heavier wire under the switch,still a good idea to supply power drops to all 3 routes of the switch.i'am not aware or any other problems .-Jim

any issues with Atlas switches have to be addressed to the manufactures overseas. this takes a long time and you never know if the problems were corrected until after the purchase. Ross are built right here in the USA, problems are corrected as soon as you call them. customer service is EVERYTHING and Ross rates 5 stars when it comes to service. no brainer to me which switch to use

Our whole layout is Atlas O track & turnouts. I have only had to electrically repair about 3 turnouts, which was really quite easy. Atlas did up-grade the wiring on the underside, and their latest product works fine. 

FWIW, Putnam Division had a fit with the switch machines on his Atlas switches. He converted all of his over to Z-Stuff.

 

Availability hands-down, I went with Ross.

Beemer,

    IMO for modern trains use either RMT (K-Line Super Snap) or Ross, unless you want to use FasTrack.  Atlas has not made any changes that I know of in their Track & Switches and the availability of the product is not good either. 

PCRR/Dave

The last batch of switches have been upgraded. I believe most of the bugs have been worked out of their switches.

prrhorseshoecurve,

    Can you tell us exactly what new engineering changes Atlas has incorporated to upgrade their switches?

PCRR/Dave

I've been hanging on for the past seven months trying to get Atlas track.

Finally gave up. Love the track! It's beautiful!  But enough is enough!

Ordered Ross track last Friday. Eagerly awaiting delivery.

No switches yet. Planned on Ross all along for them after what I read here. I have about 60 feet of Atlas track. Not sure if I'll incorporate it or just sell it and go all Ross with GG flex where I need it.

 

The first generation Atlas switches had flat copper strip jumpers molded into the ties that made pressure contact against the rails to provide power to the various rails that make up the switch. These switches are poorly engineered as the pressure contact frequently fails leaving portions of rail without power. I suppose installing enough jumpers you could make these switches work reliably, however, I've junked the few of these I've had.

 

The second generation switches replaced the copper strip jumpers with wire jumpers under the switch. The jumpers have tiny ring terminals attached and they are screwed into the rails. After a time apparently vibration from passing trains can make the screws back out causing intermittent power loss. Now before I install an Atlas switch I make sure the screws are tight and put a little dab of epoxy over the screw head and rail to prevent it from ever backing out. The main problem with this generation of switch was the jumpers were a pretty small gauge and a short on the switch could cause them to melt.

 

The third generation switch used a heavier gauge wire for the jumper.

 

I haven't seen any of the latest run of switches so I don't know if any additional changes have been made.

 

I use Atlas on my home layout and I believe this is the smoothest and quietest track system available (however, I have no experience with Scaletrax. It could be better but its so hard to find). I have no problem at all with my switches and I have 35 of them. They do need a little prep before installation and therefore may not be for everyone. What I suggest to make them operate reliably:

• Tighten all the jumper screws. Make sure you have electrical continuity to the rails through the jumpers then place a dab of epoxy over the jumper screw head down to the tie and/or rail. After the epoxy dries make sure you have continuity again as sometimes the epoxy can get between the screw and the ring terminal and act as an insulator.
• Use a Bright Boy to remove the blackening on the center rail especially the black coating on cast part of the center rail. It is a conductive paint of some sort and has a minute resistance.
• Use Rossbed for Atlas track for the switch. This ensure the switch remains level and not twisted to ensure the mechanical part of the switch works reliably.
• Use a capacitive discharge power supply for the switch machines to give them a good jolt when activated and to prevent the switch machines from burning out.

 

 

 

 

 

Ken

I am building a layout presently and have Atlas track on order. It is my understanding that the turnouts have been redesigned and are improved over the previous.   The turnouts I'm told will be available in the 2015 October timeframe.  

I agree with Kanawha above, he explains things very well. Only exception is I have not had to remove any blackening on either the switches or track. I have both DCS and Legacy and no signal problems with either. I have had absolutely no problems with any Atlas switches I have purchased new in the last 3 years. Only problem has been getting them.

 

I have had some problems with used switches I have purchased due to not being able to find new ones. I was able to get parts from Atlas and some new switch machines and now have most of the used ones working just as well as the new ones. I haven't had any wiring or conductivity problems with them.

 

I can't say much about the older switches as I have only been using Atlas Track and switches for about 3 years or so, but I again I think Kanawha has also covered that very well above. Pretty sure I have at least one older O-54 switch because it has a 14-1/2" continuous straight run and the newer ones have a 10" with a removable 4-1/2" piece on the straight run. I am not currently using that older O-54 switch.

 

I really like the looks of the Atlas track and with the solid nickel-silver rails it is very quiet and also very seldom needs cleaning. It seems to work just as good dirty as it does clean, at least it does here anyway. I have wired my layout for DCS following Barry's guidelines, using OGR wire and MTH terminal blocks and it all works very well.Better than any temporary layouts I have had before this more permanent one I have now. I am very happy with it so far, after almost a year in operation.

 

I have had very good results with Atlas track and switches, also with Atlas as a company for getting parts and answering questions. My only hope is that they get their switches back in the trains stores soon. I have not had problems getting track, even when it was in short supply my LHS has always gotten me what I wanted. Sometimes it took a few weeks, but they finally got it.

What a coincidence i email atlas yesterday about switches and they told me around October due to some improvements, what sucks is last year around may I email them on their track system as a whole and back then replied that by that summer all would be in stock
Just a common issue with this hobby

Calabrese94,

   No sir not with the entire hobby just some companies, if you gentlemen want to continue to wait and have problems that continue to need corrected, that is your choice.

I definitely choose not too.

 

Ken,

   The pictures of your Atlas engineering set up, does look mighty impressive however,

with the Ross Roadbed/Atlas Switch combination, this combination looks like it really gets the job done, very nice looking track/switch design for the layout sir!

 

PCRR/Dave 

Availability is definitely an issue with the Atlas track system which would discourage me if I was building a brand new layout. Other than that big issue, before considering Atlas you should consider what kind of layout you are building and what kind of equipment you plan to run on it.

• It is not intended for a carpet layout. The track connections and rail joiners won't stand up to a lot of assembling and taking apart. The switches need to be mounted dead flat so that the switch will reliably throw completely.
• Some postwar and tinplate may have problems. The Atlas switch frogs appear to be designed for modern scale equipment and there is little slop for oversize flanges and wheels slightly out of gauge. I had an issue with Ross switches and big articulated engines as the rear engine of an articulated would bump through a Ross frog (no issues with diesels or non-articulated engines). After discussing this with Ross via email, they said their frogs were designed to accommodate a wide variety of equipment and were designed somewhat wider and deeper than needed for more recently produced engines and rolling stock. I still have the bump with articulated engines and Atlas switches, but its not so noticeable on the Atlas switches.
• The Atlas switch machines are weak. Even at 18VAC powered from a separate transformer, not all of my switches would throw successfully. The capacitive discharge power supply I'm using cures that problem, but it requires an additional power buss running through the layout just for the switches.

Ross is a great product and is readily available. I like the Atlas track system better because it is very quiet and very smooth operating, but then I primarily run modern equipment on a permanent layout and am willing to put in the extra work to overcome some of the fussy switch problems.

 

Ken

Ken,

   That maybe the most honest appraisal of Atlas Track and Switches I have ever seen in print.

PCRR/Dave

I'm hoping October date for switches, etc. does not come and go, because I am at the point that I need track to continue building the SOUTH FORK RAILROAD.  I have been notified that I am receiving a shipment of some track this week from ATLAS.  No switches.    That hopefully is good news that product is being received.

I certainly agree about the Atlas track, it is my favorite as well, by a lot over everything else available. I have looked closely at most other track types when starting out a few years ago and Atlas won hands down. I have heard Scaletrax is also very nice and has solid rail and many of the features of Atlas track, but I have never actually seen a piece of it in person, that's the only kind my LHS does not carry. It may be even more difficult to get than Atlas is right now?

 

As you probably already know (others may not?), the switch machine problem requiring the capacitive discharge circuits is due to the type of switch machine Atlas uses. It is not unique to Atlas switch machines, but it is all twin coil switch machines that have this problem. The CD circuits have been used by the smaller scale folks for many years. long before Atlas O track was ever produced. I have mine all working pretty well right now, but I have been experimenting with powering them with DC with pretty good results. Doesn't stop the burn up problem from holding the button down too long (which I have not yet done), but it does seem to give them a little more oomph and snap when switching.

I agree atlas track is the best track system but availability is a big issue, as anyone ever used Ross switches with atlas track and what are you opinions on the look and operation of the combination

Calabrese94,

    Atlas track & switches are not the best for running all different kinds of trains far from it, even for modern trains, Ross has Atlas beat badly, especially for actual engineering that constantly operates, and is immediately available for purchase.  Having run most all the different companies track & switches, I no longer own any Atlas track or switches.

Ken's engineering design for using it, is about the best I have ever seen, it looks real promising for those who want to run with it.  However it still has problems if you own and operate Tin Plate Trains, and the availability of the Atlas Track & Switches is way to much of a problem for me to use. Each to his own on the choice on track & switches but Atlas is far from the best.

PCRR/Dave 

PCRR Dave, we get that you don't like Atlas because you can't run some tin plate on it, why do you keep bringing that up over and over int eh same thread when the OP said nothing about tin plate here?

 

Even with the issue of Atlas being hard to get, of the track brands I have seen and used, Atlas is my pick, and I do have tin plate.  But for tin plate I use a pair of old Marx switches because my locomotive has a sliding shoe and it's the only switch I've found that it will run on without shorting.  And I don't run my newer trains on that loop because the pickup rollers get caught and thus bend on those switches.

 

As for the R/GG combo, lots of guys will swear by it, but it's not the end all.  I personally don't care for them, the looks, sounds, and operation of Atlas track is my favorite.  Perhaps that's because of my N gauge days.  After that my pick is Lionel FasTrack.  And I only use FasTrack with any carpet layouts I set up.

 

So to answer the OP's question, Atlas has addressed the issues with the switches, and when the new ones finally hit the market, they will be better than the ones you currently have.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

 

Our whole layout is all Atlas O, and everything I, and all my friends have, runs fine, including 2-Rail SCALE wheel rolling stock. What is this "tin plate" stuff, anyway?

I think many folks here have reported they have and/or are successfully using Atlas track and Ross switches. Atlas has great track and switches, so does Ross, Gargraves, Lionel, MTH and all the other track manufacturers. It's what you like and what works for you that counts. I don't think there is a bad track system out there today.

 

As I have stated here before, Atlas is my preferred track system, I like it and I will continue to use it. I also think choice of track is a personal preference, there is no right or wrong. It can all be made to work reliably, especially with the knowledge and help of all the folks around here. However, what works for one person may not work for the next person. I think some track is too noisy, others think the same track is quiet. Doesn't make either one of us wrong or right. There is no need for track bashing, it's just not necessary.

" Atlas is far from the best".....alot of the magazine layouts are using it. since its in short supply ,apparently many people think it is the "best".-Jim

I never had to tinker,  tinker tinker with my Atlas stuff.

Our modular club layout uses Atlas track with Ross switches. They mate OK using the Atlas rail joiners, however, the rail profiles are slightly different so the operation across the Ross /Atlas junction is a little rough. I've done some grinding on the rails to make the transition smoother but its still a bit off.  Now, I would recommend using Ross track with Ross switches and Atlas track with Atlas switches.

 

I have one Ross O72/O54 curved switch on my otherwise Atlas layout. This is by far the roughest running switch on the layout. Some engines acted like it was out of gauge, some had rollers getting caught on the center rail. After a lot of grinding and hammering to widen the gauge at certain points, I've gotten it to be reliable, but its still rougher than my other switches. The Atlas curved switch has too long a power gap through the frog so I've figured out how to rearrange the track so as not to use a curved switch at all. Lesson I learned from this is avoid all O72/O54 curved switches.

 

As far as running tinplate through Atlas switches, I can't speak to vintage tinplate, but I have a modern Tinplate Traditions 256 and a Lionel Corp 260E. The 256 has large drive wheel flanges that look like standard gauge flanges. It runs on the Atlas track just fine, but since the Atlas frog depth is designed for modern O gauge, the 256 sort of goes up and sown as the wheels pass through the not deep enough frog. It does it pretty smoothly. It's just funny looking. The 260E has normal O gauge size drive wheel flanges but the pilot and trailing truck wheels have large flanges. These jump up through the shallow Atlas frogs but don't derail. The main problem I have is with that Ross curved switch. A couple of 710 passenger cars short out going through it and the 256 wheels hit the tops of the rail spikes.

 

Ken

 

Gentlemen,

   When someone says that Atlas Track is the best, like was written in a previous post,  I will dispute it every time I see it in print.  Everyone is entitled to his or her opinion, even me, you can take shots at me all you like, I do not think some young guy or gal starting into this hobby should be told Atlas Track is the best, IMO it can lead to a lot of frustration, for those who have little experience with different kinds of track & switches.  For the more experienced person in our hobby using Atlas Tack & Switches is perfectly fine, improvise and over come and have a ball doing it, however be honest like Ken is about the Track & Switches.  Leading a new person in our hobby into a lot of frustration is no good for our hobby.  There are certain track & Switches in hobby that should be left to the more experienced.  IMO Atlas is not the only track  & switches that falls into this category, GarGraves and others do also.  

PCRR/Dave

 

I've been reading the responses and I really appreciate the information.  But people seem to be getting a little passionate so I thought I better weigh back in-

1) I am not a newbie, or at least do not consider myself one.  I've tried different track and switches (but not Ross and not all) over the years.

2) I am not running on the floor or on carpet or not temporary setups.

3) I am not running Tinplate, mostly TMCC but some post war

4) I do "think" Atlas track is the best

5) I have a kitchen remodel project I need to do first, hopefully I'll get the W&LE expansion started by the end of the year.  If Atlas has track and switches I'll go with Atlas based on the above responses (i.e. the switches have been improved).  If Atlas track is available and Atlas switches are not, then I'll buy Ross.  If Atlas track is not available I'll just wait.

 

Again, thanks for all the advice.

 

I just don't get why some have had so many problems with Atlas and others haven't.   Product inconsistencies?  Installation methods?  It's just odd.  I have never had any problems with their track or switches, but I know others have.....strange.

Discussions on the various track systems available are amusing and always enlightening as we continue to pick up new information and tips. There are obviously several different 'camps' out there declaring the virtues of each system (I know, as I've beaten the drum vigorously for ScaleTrax for years ) to everyone. Each system has advantages and disadvantages - you choose your poison!

 

For many, Lionel's Fastrack is 'the best' and it just may be for carpet RRs and portable displays. Some use it on permanent layouts for its reputed excellent conductivity. It cannot be called 'realistic' however with its uniform plastic roadbed. But for many, it IS the best.

 

Those wanting more realism in their track usually gravitate to Ross/Gargraves (least expensive) or Atlas or Scaletrax. Both of the latter have had supply problems over the last several years which has frustrated these folks. Gargraves & Ross are good systems but suffer from the visual disadvantage of the rails and ties being grossly oversized for O scale. Gargraves 2 rail 'G-gauge' looks great with the larger trains but is visually too large for our O gauge ones (IMO) 

 

Atlas is very realistic in overall appearance but the rails themselves are a bit large and with the addition of the 3rd rail can appear 'clunky' to some. The size of their ties and spacing are excellent however and the solid rail does produce a very quiet system.

 

ScaleTrax is also solid rail but the outer rails are a smaller size with a lower profile while the center one is actually a 'blade' reminiscent of Lionel's Super O from 1957. This gives a very good appearance and has the visual advantage of causing our locomotives and equipment to appear more massive by comparison. It's main disadvantage is that the ties are spaced too far apart which can give it an odd look from some angles. It appears to be a branch line or light rail rather than a main line track in some cases. Many top modelers and layouts incorporate ScaleTrax to great advantage however. It is generally less expensive than Atlas too.

 

Switch selection is somewhat limited but we didn't find that a hindrance on our 16' x 24' ScaleTrax layout using #6s and 072s exclusively.

 

Curious as to why tinplate trains would be mentioned here in a discussion about Atlas track... Wouldn't they look better with tinplate track anyway?  

My first layout was built with Gargraves track and Ross switches. I moved about 10 years ago and made the mistake of going with all Atlas product on my new layout. I like Atlas track but the switches were incredibly inconsistent and problematic. Should NEVER have left the Ross product. Their product is wonderful and their service is above board. My mistake was thinking Atlas track and Ross switches would not have looked good together.

I have 4 Atlas switches.  The switch motors were terrible, since the coils did not disconnect when thrown.  This precluded their use as non-derailing with simple wiring, and caused burnouts.

 

My last Layout built was made with the early Atlas Switches. I had 52 Switches, all operating from either a CAB1 or CAB2. I used all Atlas Track on a 40' X 50' Layout. In  the 15 years that it was in operation, I only had a problem with TWO Switches. I say no more!!

 

FREDSTRAINS

our layout gets run 6 days a week and when you include track cleaning an average of 6 hours a day. we laid the Atlas track in 2001-2002 and have not replaced a single section, that is over 13 years of trouble free service.  we have over 40 turnouts (switches) and have only replace under ten in all these years.  we have actually replaced the ross turnouts more often because they are hollow and wear through.

say what you want but anyone who has seen our layout know the use it gets.

Here we go again. Whenever a discussion comes up about Atlas O track, we end up with these heated discussions and arguments about whose system is the best. The fact is that there is no one system that will satisfy everyone’s needs. For the traditional toy train enthusiasts, Lionel tubular and Fasttrack do very nicely. These simple plug and play systems are just that. Tubular, especially, is made to set up and take apart over and over.

 

Next up are those who want more realism in a track system. Back in the 1950s, GarGraves track was the only alternative. Their turnouts required power drops on each leg to carry current across the switch. This is still true today. However, it was never an issue and, in fact, made it simple to use on/off toggle switches to kill power to sidings or power blocks. Back then, in order to operate 2 individually controlled trains on the same track, it was necessary to divide your layout into electrical blocks powered through single pole, double throw toggle switches. Also, if you wanted to control your turnouts remotely, twin coil switch machines were necessary. This typically involved under table mounting with linkage. 

 

Fast forward to 1972–Ross switches offered an alternative to GarGraves standard switch. Ross manufactured several different sizes and along with their bullet proof design, Ross switches and GarGraves track became the unbeatable combination for hi-railers.  Again, power drops were required on each leg. This is still true today unless you step up to the Ross Ready Switch. Also, separately purchased twin coil switch machines were necessary. Today, both Gargraves and Ross offer DZ switch machines.

 

When Atlas O track entered the scene, it offered an even more realistic track with its solid T rails and scale detailed ties. Many veteran hi-railers, including me, were elated and switched over. Adding power drops on each switch leg was standard operating procedure and one that I still recommend in my book. Why rely on a built-in jumper wire, regardless of its size, that potentially could be a problem down the line? In my opinion, Atlas switches would not have gotten the bad press if they had simply not added that inadequate jumper.

 

Now, I will admit that their switch machines can be finicky and their push button controllers may stick but those issues are not deal breakers for me and others who love the look.  Using a capacitive discharge power supply for controlling twin coil switch machines has been around for well over 50 years and something I adopted back in the day. To this date, I’ve not had any issues with first generation Atlas switches.

 

So to sum up, the track system that is best for you depends entirely upon your experience and what is most important to you—nothing more, nothing less.