Atlas track questions Updated 05/03/12

Zett,

I use Atlas track on my 28' x 45' layout out of the box with out any sanding to the middle rail.  I really have not had any noticeable conductivity issues.  I run DCS, and have had good operating luck.  I do not run TMCC or Legacy at this point so I can't comment if this is an issue with those systems. 

On switches, I use a mostly O72, I have some #7's, and a curved O72/O54.  My yard is all O72.  These have worked well.   I use the Atlas switch motors, and currently they are on top of the table.  Most work well, there are a few older ones that some tie hang up, but tat seems to be rare.

On straight sections I have spaced the rails much closer than 6" and had no issues.  On the curves I do try to give about 6" or a bit more to allow room.  Most of my curves are O81 -O90 with a minimum of O72.

I hope this helps

I plan to use 3.5" to 4" in the yard, 4" on main line straights and 5.5-6" on curves, depending on the radius of the track. I will run articulateds and passenger cars so clearences will be checked! I am using Gargraves track with Ross switches. I will most likely use #6 for mainline cross overs and maybe #4's in the yard. I have some o-72 and 84's for sidings and such.

Tortise switch machines work when installed correctly. We used many of them on the n scale layout we built. The built in contacts really help with signals or power feeding the switch. I will use the 1000 switch machine tied into the AIU for remote actuation.

Frank

Thanks for the replies. I am glad that I can go closer than 6" on the straights.

Rich what made you choose to use an O72 to connect two straight lines rather than a #5? Maybe I am over thinking this. I have to go inspect your layout post again.

With the O-72, O54 curved switch you have... do you run any engines with an O-72 minimum over the O-54 curve? I was thinking of using it in one area, but then I have to pay attention to what engines I can and cannot run over this area.

Personally I use #5 for the yards and #7.5 for mainline.

Depends on your size and curve limitations.   I use all kadee couplers and very broad curves.  

As for the center rail.   I've never had an issue.   If you do power drops and follow all the golden rules of the DCS wiring then there's no concerns.

Ok one more for you. On the corners, what size curve do you place outside the O-72, O-81 or do you jump up to O-90.

When it comes to sanding the middle rail, why do you do this?

I am assuming for conductivity problems.. does this need to be done with new track or only if you start to experience problems?

When you experience problems. It's no big deal with wiping the tops with Scotchbrite Pad.

If it does need to be done to new track, then why do they even finish the top of the rail?

Because it's too costlyin the mfg process  to omit the top of the rail with the coating.

When it comes to the switches and track planning.. typically should the #5 switches be used for connecting main lines on a straight run, and then use O72 switches in other areas such as yards?

You would use #5 for high speed switches on long straight sections. IT is a better  for a train to cross over at a higher speed than the 072 switch.

When it comes to switch machines from atlas switches, I have heard everyone use everything from Z-stuff to tortise, to just staying with the atlas. I plan on mounting the machines under the table. What should I plan on using for this? FYI I am planning on using DCS and Legacy to control switches.

IF you are going underneath with switch machines and you have room. go tortoise switch machine.

 Here is a few link to the Atlas site that would be of help

Atlas Right Track (Freeware) version 10.0.  Design software supplied by Atlas.

Atlas wiring diagram for the 6924 Universal relay board.

Atlas #57 switch controller.

Atlas 6098 Delux undertable switch machine.

Atlas 6931 dwarf lights.

Thanks for the replies. I think I am just going to have to order some #5s, and #7s and then plan from there. For sure on main lines I am going with a 5 or a 7, the 72 seems like too much of a curve.

I tried planning with the track software but I need to hold the product.

Trevize when you use #5s in the yard, how much spacing does that leave between the lines center to center?

Mr. Muffin, I gave considerable thought to using Ross but I decided to go Atlas. I see a lot of newer layouts on here sticking with the atlas switches and am hearing less and less complaints. I think the difference in tie size would drive me nuts.

Thanks for clearing up the discussion on the O-72. I may use that as an option on the back side of the layout.

I really put a lot of thought into the track choice, but I just really made a final decision after watching so many layouts coming together using Atlas track and switches, Eric Siegel, Chugman, BNSF Mike (even though no updates lately, where are you Mike?) Ingeniero (who it looks like is using both Atlas and Ross) Rich883... thats just off the top of my mind.

I already made a tentative decision to commit to Ross Switches and Atlas track for 3R, even though I have a little bit of 2R.

After a careful evaluation of the offerings available, I am more than pleased that in either 2 or 3 rail there are good options.

Zett,

Haven't read through all the replies above...  I was doing pretty good up until the purple text on the dark grey background.  OUCH!!!        My eyes are still recovering from that.

Anyway, I'll quickly cut to the chase on a few key concepts here...

First, the cool thing about Atlas-O track is that it is a SYSTEM.  Except for very special arrangements, you shouldn't need to do too much in the way of cutting special fitter pieces if you plan ahead with layout design software like RR-Track.

Second, for mainline parallel track spacing, do NOT use O72 switches... rather use the numbered #5 or #7.5 switches which give you 4.5" center-to-center spacing and a much more prototypical "look".  Then if your minimum curve on the inside loop is O72, your next loop would be O81 and the third loop would be O90, and so on.  You wouldn't need to cut flex track for any of this... it's all stock, unless you're going above O-108.   And the stock pieces maintain 4.5" track spacing throughout.

As far as switch machines... I'd recommend Tortoise if you're inclined to mount switch marchines underneath the table-top.  On the plus side for Tortoise, the slow movement of the points is very prototypical compared to the quick-action snap motion of most brands on the market.  However, the Tortoise needs constant power applied until the switch points have moved completely from straight to curve (or vice/versa), in which case the Tortoise then cuts off it's own power.  Because of this style of operation, you'll need to connect a relay in between the DCS AIU and the Tortoise, so that you can control the Tortoise switch machines via DCS (and I think the same would apply for Legacy/TMCC as well).  There's a wiring diagram on the MTH website that describes this.

Best of luck... and most of all, have fun!

David

For yard spacing the O-54 (Short) will move the tracks in from 4.5" to a little less than 4" and they stack well to build a yard ladder.  At this point the 6924 relay and power routing may be of value.
Power routing link
Typical non-derail wiring with an MTH AIU link

On a small layout.

Zett,

I have Atlas-O track, 45 Atlas-O No.5 switch tracks, and 12 RCS curved switch tracks on my layout. I used the Atlas-O switch machines on top of the table, and just had to mount a few to one of the alternate locations (on top) for clearance. So far I have had no significant problems with the switch machines or the Atlas switch tracks. I did have to put back in place the small plastic link on a couple of the machines right out of the box because they had slipped out of position.

My track spacing is 4-1/2 inches center-to-center throughout. I used Ø108 and Ø99 curves on my dual main, and have had no problems running my MTH Premier Big Boy on the inner track with 18” passenger cars on the outer track. I also run the MTH No.80 steam turbine at the same time as the Big Boy, and have no problems. The only problem has been running the MTH DDA40X on the outer main, and the Big Boy on the inner track. BTW, no problems with the Lionel Vision Challenger either.

As has been mentioned above, the Atlas No. 5 and & 7.5 switch tracks provide for a 4-1/2-inch spacing, and some bridges, such as the Atlas Dual Track Pratt Truss Bridge,  also have a 4-1/2-inch track spacing.

Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.

Alex

You can see my layout under construction here:

https://ogrforum.com/d...ent/2415514336550790

Thanks for the replies again, this is helping a lot. I thought everyone had agreed that 6" spacing was the way to go, but it sounds like if I run the super large engines on the outside line I should be ok. Hmm now that I look at this though Alex you said your using O99 and O108, I am wondering if the 4.5" spacing would be a problem using O72 and O81, just because of the tighter curve on the inside.

MikeCT thanks for the links, but I am completely lost lol. Once I get the products in my hand and figure out how to install 1 correctly I will be ok from there. So you went with O54 in the yards? I may have to look at that option as well, maybe I could fit in another siding.

Since when does the Tortoise Switch Machine "cut off its own power"? The Tortoise has constant power at all times. When the switch arm reaches the end of its travel, the motor enters a stall condition at full power and maintains pressure of the closure rail against the stock rail.

Zett, just to clear up any confusion... the previous post is correct in that the Tortoise machines receive power at all times -- usually 9-12 volts DC, and they simply stall out at the end of the throw.  Power polarity then needs to be reversed when moving the switch points in the opposite direction.  It's been a few years since I wired mine, so I apologize for misspeaking.   Thanks to the previous poster for refreshing my aging brain.

The point in my original post was intended to emphasize the fact that the Tortoise is NOT a momentary-contact type set-up like the Atlas-O or Ross (DZ-1000/2500) switch machines, and that's why we need the extra latching relay involved if we're gonna control the Tortoise with a momentary-style set-up like DCS's AIU or the Legacy/TMCC equivalent electronics.  Well worth the extra wiring effort, IMHO.

David

Installation of Tortoise Switches with the Atlas 6924 Universal relay board.

Zett:

You don't need to sand the middle rail. Just clean it (and the outside rails) periodically with denatured alcohol. You will know when you are over due for cleaning when you see sparking from the power pick up rollers on some of your locomotives.

Joe

Still working on track planning... 

1. After watching Eric Siegel's Atlas switch video part 1, I am thinking of using the Atlas Terminal joiners. Anyone use these or have any experience with them?

2. I have a few outside curves on my layout that are O-80. Since Atlas does not make an O-80 switch, how do I solve this problem? I dont want the outside loop to have a curve tighter than O-80, so do I use a #5 switch and then custom cut a piece of O-80 curve?

3. It seems that some use O-54 switches for yards. Im correct in assuming then you need a switcher engine to run on these turnouts correct? Obviously you cannot take an engine with a minimum O-72 rating and run her through an O-54 switch... This also confuses me because Atlas makes a O-72 / O-54 curved switch, why not a larger one?

I started my project thinking I would use nothing smaller than O-72, seems like I am being pushed to smaller curves.

Thanks again for your responses.

`Zett,

". . . use a #5 switch and then custom cut a piece of O-80 curve?"

That's what I would do. Cutting the Atlas track is easily done with a cutoff wheel and a rotary tool, Dremel or otherwise. I used a lot of the pieces I had left over after cutting the tracks to fit RR-Track dimensions (± 1/32"), but some did not have a place, so I kept most of these. I kept some of the ties to use as loads, or as junk . . .

(Practice makes perfect)

Good luck!

Alex

Zett....To try to help answer your question about the "O-54" dilemma.  Because I wanted more tracks in my yard, I broke down and decided to use O-54 turnouts.  Just like you, at first I worried about the locomotives that required O-72 curves.  Well, what I found out was that many of my O-72 locomotives didn't have a problem going through the O-54 switch because there simply was not enough of the O-54 curve for the wheels to bind before the locomotive entered straight trackage.  Regardless, I realized that prototypically large steamers would not be working the yard so using a tighter radius would be OK.  On the prototype, not all motive power could negotiate all trackage.  While it can be done, if you design your layout so that the largest locomotives can go everywhere...well....there is nothing wrong with that but you may limit yourself as far as being able to fit other elements into the track plan.  Heck...I have fun bringing a large locomotive into the yard throat, dropping off the train, and then bringing in a smaller switch engine to break up the train and shove the various cars into the yard sidings....  Bottom line, you have to decide what you want to do in the space you have to do it in....in other words, you decide on your "druthers"..

Alan

Atlas switch machines can be thrown with a toggle switch and 2 capacitors as shown here.

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowT...1&categoryId=426

Dale H

Thanks for the link. That's a great way to throw solenoid switch machines. Might work with MTH ScaleTrax machines, too.

Zett -

Note Mike's (CT) post, above. I wish I had known about these!

6057 Atlas 3-Tie Snap-Lock-Clips Wood (8pack)
 

I certainly would have used them. BTW, I just looked, and TandK Hobby has the 8-pack for $3.85.

Thanks, Mike.

Alex