Bad Board, how to confirm, Replacement installed

Try more voltage and see if that makes a difference.

What wireless system did you install in the loco? Since the motor is OK, it would suggest that the wireless PCB has a problem. I have done a significant number of wireless installations and have learned to always pretest the board before installation.

Bob, the install is a first generation lionchief.  My thought was this would provide me with a tried and board and remote.  John's suggestion of more voltage is worth a shot.  I will try 18v track power as a test. 

Finally returned to this project and can absolutely verify the PCB board is the problem.  Not unexpected, the original bay listing said the donor loco was problematic.  There are no visible problems with the board that my untrained eye can see, time to move on.   So what should I look for to use to control a battery powered loco that will not break the bank?  Would one of those under $25 RC cars I see out there be an option for donor electronics?

A new LC board isn't expensive and would drop right in.  I converted my LC+ Camelback to battery power by simply adding a battery, it's the easiest way to do the job.  Here's the thread, easy-peasy.

LC+ Camelback Upgrade to Battery Power

I designed my first battery powered wireless system in 2011. I used a 2 channel 49Mhz receiver pulled out of an inexpensive toy car and a 12V NiMH battery. It was featured operating in the LCCA website and is still there. It is still running perfectly today.

Yes Bob, but my Camelback has fan driven smoke, electrocouplers, full sound, and of course, remote control of all of that.  It all depends on what you expect to end up with.  It was also dirt simple to convert the LC+ locomotive to battery operation, not everyone is able to start from scratch and salvage boards and get them running.

John, the part from the donor loco is not available on the lionel web site.  Not being familiar with how they sell their parts it appears I would have to buy a board and a controller to match.  Correct me if I am wrong here.  I see small RC cars for under $25.  all I want here is movement and speed control, no extra features necessary. 

As long as you don't mind the roll-your-own aspect of tearing apart the car and extracting the electronics, it would likely work.

necrails, check out this video to see if it meets your needs. Total cost is around $47.00.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAXGeeQj-K8

Thanks Bob, I think once I get the first one out of the way the next conversion will go better.  My mistake was buying the loco that was listed as problematic, I figured it would be the motor that was the issue.  Funny thing is it ran bad, then ran fine so I thought I had a good PCB.  In any event I still have a nice little switcher and I know the battery John used works fine for this application, just need the electronics.  The only way I learn is by tearing things apart so this has been educational.

Henry

It's a shame that sometimes the education is expensive.

In this case not overly expensive but learned some things so money well spent.

In searching the Dead Rail web site I found an older article describing how to use a LED rc dimmer switch to control a motor.  Six dollars later the tiny device is installed and working as described.   Motor control isn't as fine as i would like, there is no reverse but this loco is designated for track cleaning, no special features required.  Thanks Bob and John for the support.  Total cost of conversion under $40, 9.6v battery and led rc dimmer were the only items to purchase.