Balky Cab 1 buttons

Related topic with some cleaning tips and suggestions https://ogrforum.com/topic/tmcc-cab-1-issue

And then from this similar topic https://ogrforum.com/topic/79142442409597504

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

If that doesn't fix the key pads, you can go for the silver bullet.   This renews the conductive pad on the rubber keypad contact surface.

The bad part is, reviewing those topics, there may in the past have been more detailed topics but the links are broken indicating the posts may have been removed. Common problem with forums- they are valid for a point in time but over time information is often lost or forgotten, external links broken.

Because the CAB-1 and many remotes use rubber conductive pads, they all kind of need cleaning over time and eventually with enough use wear the conductive pad part of the "switch". Youtube has tons of videos and the concept is basically the same https://www.youtube.com/result...mote+button+cleaning

I'm doubting that "set" got used so much it's worn. More likely it's just dirty being near the bottom of the remote and just needs cleaned.

Also, just a note, you can buy the rubber replacement keypad for your DCS remote.

Good luck finding a new keypad for the long discontinued Cab-1. Just saying, take care of it, clean it, don't leave the batteries to leak in it, and hopefully your CAB-1 can hang on a little longer.

And, that's another sore point on the CAB-1 I am aware of because I've had to repair my fair share.

The 3 places on a CAB-1 are:

• the antenna getting broken or the connection,
• the battery tray contacts (between corrosion and just not a strong design over time) getting loose or failing to make good battery contact,
• and the rubber conductive buttons.

I was told that North Lima had some of the battery tray contacts at one point, but their website is down and has been down for a while.

I've used the rubber keypad fix on a number of old CAB1 remotes, it works really well.

These handhelds are going to be obsolete and COLLECTABLES!

Replaced by smart phones and pads.

The TECH got you this far; you now need to move a bit more into the future!

@AlanRail posted:

These handhelds are going to be obsolete and COLLECTABLES!

You bet, that's why I'm collecting them!   BTW, I'm using them as well, I have no desire to phone in my train operational commands.

John,

When your commands are phoned in, do you have to call an operator to make the connection for you?

Number Plee-uz?

Mike

@Vernon Barry posted:

The 3 places on a CAB-1 are:

• the antenna getting broken or the connection,
• the battery tray contacts (between corrosion and just not a strong design over time) getting loose or failing to make good battery contact,
• and the rubber conductive buttons.

I was told that North Lima had some of the battery tray contacts at one point, but their website is down and has been down for a while.

The Keypad-Fix mentioned above works like magic to fix the buttons.  There is also an easy, inexpensive fix for the battery contacts.

The little spring tabs that press against the "-" pole of the battery do get weak or break off in time.  The fix is to buy a sheet of 0.008" thick "hard phosphor bronze."

Cut a small piece as shown.  It's easy to cut with regular scissors.  Make a dent in the center using a center punch, Phillips screwdriver head, or whatever you want.

Here's the other side of the dent.  The raised center of the new piece will take the place of the original spring tab.  Note the top corners are cut off.  This is so the new piece will fit in the battery compartment and clear the sliding cover.

Place the new piece as shown (clipped corners on top), install batteries and enjoy continued Cab-1 use.  The battery will wedge the new piece against the contact plate at the end of the compartment.

I also replaced the antenna on my CAB1's with a BNC connector and connected a shorter but more robust connector.

@Vernon Barry posted:

Also, just a note, you can buy the rubber replacement keypad for your DCS remote.

Good luck finding a new keypad for the long discontinued Cab-1. Just saying, take care of it, clean it, don't leave the batteries to leak in it, and hopefully your CAB-1 can hang on a little longer.

Is the Cab-1 keypad different than the Cab-1L?

@BobbyD posted:

Is the Cab-1 keypad different than the Cab-1L?

A somewhat moot point as the CAB1L keypad parts are all listed as unavailable as well.

AAMOF, virtually everything for the CAB1L but couple of screws is listed as not available.

Sadly I've noticed that with a lot of Lionel parts John.

As to the button issue, why do so many refuse to just touch them and instead attempt to push it all the way through the remote?

@BobbyD posted:

Sadly I've noticed that with a lot of Lionel parts John.

As to the button issue, why do so many refuse to just touch them and instead attempt to push it all the way through the remote?

Because some remotes, even when new, require you to push the button out the back side before they respond.  Some only require you to do so with some of their buttons.         j

@JohnActon posted:

Because some remotes, even when new, require you to push the button out the back side before they respond.  Some only require you to do so with some of their buttons.         j

The Keypad-Fix goop fixes that problem.

@Bob posted:

The Keypad-Fix goop fixes that problem.

I bought a lifetime supply of keypad goop many years ago. However you should not have to use the goop on a new remote. Wiping the contact pads down with denatured alcohol on the printed circuit board most often fixes the problem on new remotes.   I just despise having to crack open a remote especially the ones which snap together.       j                           

I will also attest to the miracle-like properties of keypad fix. Absolutely a must have...(I have no connection to this product)...

John

@JohnActon posted:

Because some remotes, even when new, require you to push the button out the back side before they respond.  Some only require you to do so with some of their buttons.         j

Been lucky then, never had that issue with any new remotes. Had Cab-2's that didn't work and some engines, not remotes.

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll try the cleaning tips and if that’s not enough the stuff John recommends. I’ve never had a Cab 1 apart, but assume it’s pretty straightforward getting in and putting it all back together.

RM

A quick follow up: A simple cleaning of the keypad contacts was all it needed. Works like new. Thanks again, all.

RM

Following this with interest.  I am fearful about disassembling my cab 1 for fear of ruining it.  What should i be wary of?

I've not had any luck with the paint type stuff. Mine get repaired with those little disks that can be found on eBay. The trick was finding some glue that will hold them. Original RTV works for me.

When assembling/disassembling, remember which screw goes where. There are four different sizes of screws - two different for the case and two different for the circuit boards.

Also be aware of the LED circuit board around the throttle wheel. Don't bend the LEDs and make sure the board is in the right place in the case slots.

Just be careful and mindful.