Best Way to Deal with a Rat's Nest

If it ain't broke don't fix it ? 

Your wiring really isn't wrong. Standards for wire colors vary by system, nationality, manufacturer, etc.  Black as hot isn't uncommon. Neither is green as ground.(brwn, blk ,grn,white,violet,red I'd say are most common for ground "worldwide", and in that order. Green being an earth ground , if it is one, is kinda wrong I guess.   The best thing you can do is just stay consistent thru using color and grouping (size allows repeats at times ). A bird's-nest is not hard to deal with if the colors are there to follow. 

Organized or not wires cross. During deep diagnostics the somewhat organized bird's nest can be easier to deal with than a tightly wired masterpiece. (You spend all day keeping it organised or getting it back that way.)     There is a happy balance.  I like velcro straps for bundles on runs and lots of end slack. Slack loops zip tied neatly after the screw head zip strips securing bundles. (a screw zip about every 4-5')

.... I'd start with going to lever lock connectors vs suitcase. Then establishing a terminal/fuse block system for blocks, various constant voltages and turnouts,etc., focus on common, weak and longer runs first, but switching circuits over as issues or opportunity arise moving toward grouped, organized, runs.  I'd bump my main bus up to 12g, all multistrand eventually, but no hurry, and go to a blade terminal pressed into the foot and web of GG on drops. (The blackened surface must be ground off for solder to stick..some folk still have issues I guess.

One wire at a time. 

Make a picture of your layout showing the location of switches, blocks, sidings, and anything else electrical. Number or label them on the picture. Then get some wire markers. They are tough paper/plastic with a number that goes around the wire and looks like a small flag. mark each end of the wire with the same number.

Make a list of the numbers and wire function as you go. Example: wire number 22, siding 4, power. Example: wire number 34, track ground, block 3, to buss.

This will allow you to know the function of each wire and where it goes without dismantling the wiring.

Mike CT posted:

One wire at a time. 

Good answer!   It's the only way you'll really get it right.

xray, at first I thought you were describing my layout.  But, it runs and, as Adriatic wisely says, don't kick the sleeping dog.  Rewiring is much more difficult that original wiring.

xray, one more thought.  You absolutely did not make a mistake by using 14-gauge drops as well as feeds.  I have done that also.  Provides better power for trains, and helps DCS signal strength.

There are some 70+/- 14g wires soldered to center rails, plus dozens to outside rails, and failures have not been a problem.  I use Gargraves track.  I use a moto-tool with the fiberglass cutting disc to scratch the rail.  Then a Weller soldering gun to lay a coat of solder on the rail.  I push wire up through table, and bend into a 90-degrees turn, so a bare portion lies right along the top of the rail base.  I tin the wire end, and then press it onto the solder on the rail using a long nose pliers.

In addition to some of the advice above, the best thing you can do is create a diagram/plan for the wiring - to accompany your track plan.  With this wiring diagram, you can then neatly rewire each block one at a time, while keeping the rest of the layout operational.  This keeps the job manageable and you can feel the progress moving forward as you complete each block.  The wiring diagram/plan is key, as you can make decent progress in 15 minutes here and 30 minutes there without having to think back to where you were the last time and what your next steps will be.  Can you post a layout plan?  Any current pictures of the wiring or layout?

Lots of good answers to your dilemma.  Some additional pointers and/or summing up what has been said already....................

1. Learn to solder if you don't know how already.  A properly soldered joint is bullet proof.
2. Twist and solder the bare ends of all stranded wiring before making a connection.
3. For mechanical electrical connections, screw terminals are fine.  Make sure they're tight.
4. Wire nuts work well for a multiple wire connections.  Use the proper size nut, and tighten securely.  Don't forget step #2 first.
5. Round up all suitcase connectors and throw them in the trash.  Or give them to someone you don't like.  They're worthless over the long run.  Many a loss of electrical feed can be traced to suitcase connectors that have been in service for awhile.
6. Crimp connectors are probably okay if crimped properly.  If not, they're no better than suitcase connectors.  When using a crimp connector, I will crimp, solder, and heat-shrink the joint with some tubing for a neat appearance.

This is the general formula I follow when doing wiring work.  I never have electrical problems. 

I believe I am in the camp of leave it alone for now. I feel documenting and identifying the wires is the thing to do. Buy a $1.00 spiral notebook to be able to move around the train room with you as you trace wires out. There are many ways to mark the wires themselves to aid in future work or cleanup. 

For example, a friend who was downsizing gave me a couple thousand feet of 12ga low voltage wire on a spool. So I have plenty of wire, as long as you like blue. So I found black, green, red, brown, and gray electrical tape. I mark all the ground feeds with the black tape approximately every six feet, and since I common all the grounds, keeping grounds separately identified is not important to me (I may be sorry for this later). For mainlines, I have used the other color tapes, so one mainline is marked with green tape, another with red tape, etc. At each riser to the track, I make sure the wires are marked at the riser to main wire connection. I can use two colors or more to keep marking unique - example: using a green tape next to a red tape to mark another unique wire.

But there are other marking ideas, like colored shrink tubing, colored zip ties. Again, you can mix tap with shrink tubing with colored zip ties to create a unique identification. Example, you could use green tape only to indicate mainline 1, then green tape plus one orange zip tie to indicate block 1 in mainline 1, green tape plus black zip tie to indicate block 2 in mainline 1, green tape plus two orange zip ties to indicate block 3 in mainline 1 ==> I think you get the idea, and your imagination can dictate how you do it. 

In addition to the above, you can also add tags at strategic spots (your pick) on which you write what the wire is - I am sure you know the tags I am talking about, the paper tags with the string loop that you can write on, the put the loop of string around the wire and pull the tag through the loop.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

I agree to just leave it alone and fix what needs to be fixed from time to time.

If this is your "long term" layout maybe you want to consider the following.

However....if you are motivated....get a good quality wire cutter and proceed to cut short every wire below the table top that either connects to the track or switch motors. Rip it all out and all you have left are short stubs hanging down.

Nothing will work on the layout until it is re-wired.

Next, using the suggestions above, start to wire your isolated block sections with color coded wire routed in a neat fashion. Next, tackle the switch motors in a similar fashion. Connect the newly routed color coded wire to the "drops" and either use a mechanical fastener (posi-locks come to mind) or twist and solder every connection for trouble free performance.

Your motivation will be the ability to run trains again and operate your switch motors once the new wiring is installed.

That is what I would do. I am in the process of building my new layout. While not a "neat freak" under the layout, I do use color coded "stranded" wire track, switch motors and accessories. I use all stranded wire (14GA for track, 20GA for DZ2500 switch motors and 18GA for everything else).

Donald

Thanks for all the comments & suggestions. So from what I can ascertain from your ideas I’ve formulated a (very) preliminary plan of attack which can be summarized as follows:

1. If the wheel ain’t broke, don’t fix it…or in other words, leave things alone for now and deal with what has to be dealt with if and when it becomes necessary.
2. In the meantime I like the idea of adding color coded tape to the power feeds. I’ve got the insulated track sections color coded on the schematic on my control panel so I can get matching color bands. That way, I don’t have to be that concerned about the different wire color combinations I used. I can also mark the terminal blocks in the same way.
3. You all seem to think the 14 gauge solid wire leading from the terminal blocks to the tracks sections is OK even though there isn’t enough slack to create the tidy bundles I’ve seen in the pics.
4. Eventually, I should replace the short 14 gauge solid wire from the power feeds to the track with 18 gauge stranded wire and replace the suitcase connectors. I’m not sure, but I think Ace Hardware carries the Wego Lever Lock connectors. I might give them a try.

Admittedly, I didn't really know how to solder when I first started. I've learned but some of the original connections are really ugly. So, is there a Dremel bit that’s actually effective in removing the black from the Gargraves center rail? If so, which one exactly (product # would help) because the bits I’ve tried (wire wheel, drum sander) haven’t worked at all.

"I should replace the short 14 gauge solid wire from the power feeds to the track with 18 gauge stranded wire. "

Now THAT would be a very big mistake.  Better to prefect your soldering

Agree, tomtee.  One constant issue with the Weller guns is that the set screws start making poor contact with the tip.  Occasionally they need to be loosened slightly and retightened.  Also there has been some confusion regarding the 2-position trigger.  The Weller instructions say the first click is high heat (135w) and the second is low (100w).

   I don't see any reason to go with smaller 18 gauge drops. You could, but why? Your supplies put out enough to cook that wire real quick during a short.  

  What is the biggest loco you want to be ready for? I can draw 7a constant on one postwar steamer and pass. cars . Thats close to an 18g limits.  Go to 16g or step up the bus to 12g (if convenient) and stick with 14g.

The actual wire gauge you should use depends on availability from supply for bus, &/or requirements by equipment at drops.  Length of a wire per amp at x voltage is a given in gauge. A large gauge means less voltage drop per ft too. (in some applications over gauge is an issue, usually feq./sound based though)

Choose wire big enough for handling the max a supply can ever push and/or fuse it for just over what you actually use on a normal day.  Your wire, and hopefully equipment ,will never toast that way.

...So for the ZW-A bus a10-12a fuse (Thats maybe pushing it on 14g for delivery, check it..?). . You may want to use smaller gauge for cost or easier fitment, but there is no "scientific need" or benefit to go smaller gauge for drops. It actually places a fine link inline that might pose a danger should it become isolated at max load imo.   I.e. smaller drops assume all is well and always will be. Larger drops aimed at a max can handle an oops.

Where we get into gauge step down for drops, it really isn't a step down. It is stepping the bus up during design, but we are just addressing it now.  The real reasons to step up the bus is power loss through length or addition power draws not connected by commonality of the track drops, like an accessory, or switch that doesn't directly draw power from the rails, etc.  i.e. any draw on the circuit thats not track.

Solid 14g vs stranded, standed 14g will actually deliver more power , but 14g solid delivers a decent enough current to not whine about, especially if there are not accessories on the same current thats going to the track. The 14g drops will do a great delivey, better than 16-18g  (about equal to 16g stranded I think). So unless it is convenient or the connection gremlin insists, don't bother. Going to a WEGO for the present connections will help tremendously as is, I'm sure.l

  Wherever you have indented the solid wire with suitcase connectors you have cut its current carrying capabilities. Try to trim these nicks away if you can.  Same for cut off strands of wire during stripping ... did you loose two strands or 6? Big difference and even 1/20 means up to 8% less. 

The ZW could USE 10g bus wire and 12g drops if you really wanted to be ready for anything.

Sorry if this is "scattered", it took well over an hour to compose as is; the composer size, auto spell-wreck and auto word-wreck all had it in for me. 

If it ain't broke.....

The solid wire is ok but stranded gives you better connections and will take solder better. If you are going to replace, then consider all stranded for track power and multi conductor cables for switches and accessories, and lights. It helps to reduce the mass of wires under the table.  I use Cat 5 and old 22-4 telephone wire, even some 6 conductor intercom cable I had. Standardize colors and document as you go.

Good quality terminal strips are great for terminating wires at common points. Nothing wrong with wire nuts as long as they are the proper size. Look at the packages and they will list wire size and max # of wires on the box.

I've committed many of the sins mentioned here just because I've changed and added a lot since the original build.

Good luck- Bob

Ha. Some years ago here, I was talked out of my thoughts of solid wire carrying more current. Evidence and reference was good. But I just just came across a fact that puts me back to my original position. The gauge must be 2/3" around before that truely becomes a factor. AND dc crosses via crossection, ac on the skin, making it highly effective for dc (we do piggyback dc) while still having good enough skin for ac. (??.. see wire skin density in wikipedia... not my fact origin, but it's proof if you want to dive that deep.)

It also reverses some things really, though as mentioned, not too much difference in a gauge solid to stranded low volt 60hz, the solid IS "heavier" in ways for our delivery uses. The command environment signals would probably like stranded better though.

Adriatic, on my DCS/conventional layout, I just use 14g stranded, have the soldered joints on the side of the rails so I can see them or readily access them when necessary, run trains without problems, and sleep at night.  (As do the rats in their nests.)

Actually Skin Effect doesn’t really enter into uninsulated stranded wire considerations. To be effectual, each strand must be insulated from the others. I think stranded wire is excellent on all layouts simply because it’s flexible, doesn’t break because of a nick when you strip it, and bundles nicely.

As to using 18 ga at the track point, a short length doesn’t have significant voltage drop, but as was mentioned here, could be hot from a short, my answer to that is to have multiple drops on a block and very fast electronic breakers on the power supply. Cleaning and a little bit of acid free liquid flux will make to soldering easier. I prefer a very hot iron, get on and get off quickly.

Tom Tee posted:

Try the cutting disk.  Just dance it, lightly skim it across the  surface.  Go easy, that tin cuts quickly.

A cutting disk to remove the black?? Which one exactly? Dremel makes several.

I would have thought one of the grinding bits or sanding drums but those haven't worked for me.

I use any of the fiber reinforced discs, either the regular or the easy-lock.  Just lightly touch the rail.  The discs and drums are hard to get into the space.  The thin edge of the cutting disc is just right.  I never use the non-fiberglass-reinforced discs, because they shatter too easily.

Skin effect in wire is real, but is negligible at our frequencies.

For 14ga solid copper wire. (DC resistance .009 per meter)

     For Lionel's 455Khz, skin effect adds .036 ohms per meter.

     For MTH's 2.37Mhz, skin effect adds .093 ohms per meter.

For 18ga solid copper wire. (DC resistance .018 per meter)

     For Lionel's 455Khz, skin effect adds .059ohms per meter.

     For MTH's 2.37Mhz, skin effect adds .15 ohms per meter.

For 24ga solid copper wire. (DC resistance .078 ohms per meter)

     For Lionel's 455Khz, skin effect adds .129ohms per meter.

     For MTH's 2.37Mhz, skin effect adds .312 ohms per meter.

The skin effect is in each strand of stranded wire, and while the skin effect resistance in each strand in a 14ga stranded wire is higher that of 14ga solid wire, you have many strands in parallel, which means each strands skin effect resistance is in parallel with the skin effect resistance of all the other stands, effectively reducing the skin effect resistance below that of solid wire.

I used this site to get wire diameter https://www.rapidtables.com/ca...ire-gauge-chart.html

and this site to do skin effect calculation http://www.chemandy.com/calcul...tance-calculator.htm

Frequencies for Lionel and MTH gotten from a post in this forum https://ogrforum.com/...el-and-mth-frequency

You can’t ignore that  the uninsulated strands short against each other reducing the additional surface to almost nothing effectively. They make insulated strands stranded wire just for that reason, and it’s called Litz wire.

There is no improvement due to skin impedances in parallel with uninsulated stranded wire. Not really a useful part of this particular  discussion.

Boys, boys...as the O.P. I would just like to say I don't give a rat's patootie about "skin effect" or any of that other crap you're bloviating about. It has nothing to do with what I asked originally which was basically how to take a mass of messy wiring and organize it into something a bit more coherent so that in the event of an electrical problem, and thankfully over the years I've had relatively few of them, it would take less time to trace and fix.

If you want to argue, go start your own thread.

  It's not really an argument; and does reflect on the accuracy of my post on the wire choice your considering. The rest is "fluff", my thoughts on the subject as a whole, and a few odd points (skippable )

  Is it critical here ? Not likely. If you plan with some overkill and fusing it likely won't really matter   Just an interesting fact (to some) more useful elsewhere, (like in a command thread), than here.   

  As much as it seems anything electrical should be a given; it's not. The variables are immense and because of it, techs tend to dwell over the various means to an end, reminding each other of their experiences , odd & forgotten circumstances, etc.. They aren't ''jumping on me' if that is the worry.

  It may be boring but served a purpose. These guys have sensed a weak point in the theory I've learned, and so the debate began. But it's really just listing facts, not a debate; "an exchange of varied knowledge". I welcome it because of conflicting info from my past teachers. 

  Sorry if it bugged you, but consider that the answer to "which carries more current, solid or stranded" has been flipflopped on me by teachers, supervisors, and peers,.. 5 times in my life and I feed myself with electronic repair for over a decade (not proud I'm wishy washy here)...and I did comment with it somewhat in mind as I was going over your gauge questions.

  I don't assume to be the last word in anything, but I'm not normally easily swayed from a position either... these skin "facts" have had me flip flopping "forever".  I think it's because the knowledge comes from various sects with thier own criteria; high volt, low volt, ac, dc, and signal/ serial all have thier own set of ideal circumstances and conditions, and yet still overlap in so many ways. 

  The important thing for you to draw from it all, if at all, is that signals are most likely gonna like stranded, and using an oversized gauge is usually a good thing for power delivery. (that's all I'm comfortable with spouting about for now.. )

Sounds like someone is mad as an old wet hen.

I too developed a rat's nest over time, I too never had an issue.  When I switched to command control (TMCC) i took the one wire or one block at a time method to simplify things.  It took some time, it eliminated my control panel since I did not really need one.  ALL turnouts (17) are manual.  Power is now routed through two 3 gang blue outlet boxes ($3) each and controlled by inexpensive light switches that can handle up to 15 amps.  Each switch has a label but those are only for when I develop memory loss.  I had no interest in spending time building a control panel that would make NASA proud but I did need an easy to modify solution that only required a screwdriver.  Original power feeds were all either soldered, any grinding tool will remove the black from gargraves track, or mechanically attached to the track by spreading the ties, opening the underside of the rail, inserting the wire along the newly opened space and locking it in place by sliding the tie back.  In 20 years I have NEVER had a problem.  The goal was to get trains to run, not become an electricians apprentice.  I think I succeeded.

Is this what you consider a "rat's nest"? Red 14 gauge stranded for all track power blocks, 14 gauge black for track common, 16 gauge green for accessory light common (tied to the 14 gauge black), 16 gauge white for accessory light hot, 16 gauge blue for operating accessory common (tied to black and green so everything shares a common), 16 gauge yellow for operating accessory hot. Track power is from a Postwar ZW, accessory power from a Type Z. DCS signal strength of 10 everywhere on the layout, no TMCC issues. It works. That's all that matters. 

RJR posted:

Sounds like someone is mad as an old wet hen.

I'm not mad. Any frustration peaking out is really self directed as I find myself without the words to simply explain it IS related. I  have an incomplete sets of facts for it, but the theory isn't beyond me. If not a full explaination, at least one that simply shows how it is related. I think I failed and ticked folk off "just like Charlie-freakin'- Brown"...Arg!

Didn't mean you, Adriatic.  Never had a problem with what you have said.

Just for the record, I'm not mad either. I'm just saying if you want to talk about skin effect, loss of resistance, or the Theory of Everything for that matter, start your own thread and title it "Theory of Everything" or "Skin Effect" or whatever you want. As for the effect of wire gauge on signal strength...I couldn't care less. I don't do DCS or Command Control. 

As for me, I've got 7 insulated blocks each with an average of 3 drops per block. In the 10 years since I've had my layout in it's current configuration I have had to replace 7 or 8 drops, either because the tension or spring effect from the 14 gauge solid wire has been stronger than my miserable solder joints and they've popped off the track or the suitcase connectors failed. Each time I've replaced them with 18 gauge stranded wire and wire nuts and have had no problems since, at least with those particular wires. My original point was because of the mess underneath the layout, figuring out where exactly the problem was located was a real PIA and I was simply looking for the best advise to correct this without ripping everything out and starting over.

The advise of "one wire at a time", different color electrical tape to color code the wires and removing the center rail black oxide with a Dremel cutting disk will be heeded. 

As regards removing the black from my Gargraves center rails over time, I have always dipped into my plumbing box and used emery cloth and my finger/stick to clean it .

I know I am even past obsolete but this step with heat of course, followed by rosin flux always got me good solder flow and and using a tinned wire melded the wire to the rail nicely. My ballast covered the site. 

Also see below--don't go railing without your jumpered terminal strips,powered from the transformer enroute to the rails. Not only provides many screw heads for multi- connections to hot and common rails for good railpower, it is good spot to mount an inexpensive Track  Voltage Suppresssor (TVS) betweern Hot( green) and Common( white):

I save those plastic bag ties.  You know, the ones that are about 3/4" flat plastic squares with a hole on one side that you slip onto the twisted end of the bag.  It just keeps the wires up near the bottom of the layout.  And they don't cost anything.    

xrayvizhen posted:

Just for the record, I'm not mad either. I'm just saying if you want to talk about skin effect, loss of resistance, or the Theory of Everything for that matter, start your own thread and title it "Theory of Everything" or "Skin Effect" or whatever you want. As for the effect of wire gauge on signal strength...I couldn't care less. I don't do DCS or Command Control. 

As for me, I've got 7 insulated blocks each with an average of 3 drops per block. In the 10 years since I've had my layout in it's current configuration I have had to replace 7 or 8 drops, either because the tension or spring effect from the 14 gauge solid wire has been stronger than my miserable solder joints and they've popped off the track or the suitcase connectors failed. Each time I've replaced them with 18 gauge stranded wire and wire nuts and have had no problems since, at least with those particular wires. My original point was because of the mess underneath the layout, figuring out where exactly the problem was located was a real PIA and I was simply looking for the best advise to correct this without ripping everything out and starting over.

The advise of "one wire at a time", different color electrical tape to color code the wires and removing the center rail black oxide with a Dremel cutting disk will be heeded. 

You could start at the rails and work back to the control panel. Bundle the block wire sets as you go. Electrical tape is the cheapest solution.

No "skin" off my back .....sorry, couldn't resist.

   I am aware that I write kind scattered, long winded and it's boring at times for some folk. But I've also (very surprisingly for various reasons) gotten unexpected praise for it in private.  I do take effort to curb my length believe it or not.  

  The 18g at under about a foot is ok. Over that doesn't really meet my personal criteria for worse case scenario design, which is a direct short to the end of each 18g drop wire while it is isolated.  It also helps pad any negative variances from specifications by a crap manufacturer or distributor.  (where is the wire from?  )

    ....I like the velcro for quick open/close access to a loom(s).  I also used tab-opening zip strips for supporting the brunt of the weight early because velcro usually isn't as handy during stringings; which is more of a tool organizing trait than design preference

Lou,  I'd grade you at mild, but organized birdsnesting. No worse or better than most of my own. I use a wider wire variety is really about the only difference. " But that looks "red-y" to run to me 

   Approaching it from an asthetics aspect (which I hated to do to the next tech in some cases) I like to go straight as far as I can starting from my first common&fuse terminal block and turn at a left or right in groups as needed. So... The two terminals com/fuse are about a 1-1/2' apart and 2 groups stream out straight ,maybe bending , but remaining as a single stream, until a wire set must comes from each and forms a new branch .  Ideally ending wires at a terminal to make use of short drops. Going over or under at branches I base on likelyhood of needed access and lengths; short, and low wire count groups covering longer after likelyhood consideration because they are easiest delt with if anything HAS to unburied. (also where ending at terminals vs other spliicing shines. And speaking of, I don't like wire nuts on stranded wire and am especially careful to tap them in place when I do use them.    I feel layout vibration isn't exactly house wiring; too much vibration.   I think the SAE methods work better most of the time; vibration is pretty much a given there. 

Adriatic posted:

  The 18g at under about a foot is ok. Over that doesn't really meet my personal criteria for worse case scenario design, which is a direct short to the end of each 18g drop wire while it is isolated.  It also helps pad any negative variances from specifications by a crap manufacturer or distributor.  (where is the wire from?  )

Jeez....Now I gotta worry about where the wire comes from?? I went to Lowes yesterday and picked up a Dremel reinforced cutting wheel, a package of electrical tape with 6 rolls of 5 different colors in it, wire nuts, velcro strips and wire. It turns out, they only carry 18 gauge wire as "lamp cord wire - 18/2" so I got 16 gauge stranded instead from a company called Southland.  Hope it's OK.

#16 gauge will work just fine also.

xrayvizhen posted:

Adriatic posted:

  The 18g at under about a foot is ok. Over that doesn't really meet my personal criteria for worse case scenario design, which is a direct short to the end of each 18g drop wire while it is isolated.  It also helps pad any negative variances from specifications by a crap manufacturer or distributor.  (where is the wire from?  )

Jeez....Now I gotta worry about where the wire comes from?? I went to Lowes yesterday and picked up a Dremel reinforced cutting wheel, a package of electrical tape with 6 rolls of 5 different colors in it, wire nuts, velcro strips and wire. It turns out, they only carry 18 gauge wire as "lamp cord wire - 18/2" so I got 16 gauge stranded instead from a company called Southland.  Hope it's OK.

You mostly have to know whether the wire is copper clad aluminum or 100% copper. Much of the speaker wire (red/black) is copper clad and is twice as resistive as pure copper. What you bought at Lowes, is most certainly just copper since it is meant to be used in residential wiring. And it would be plainly designated what it is as opposed to buying off the internet.

I'm a little late to this conversation, but I've read most of the posts. In dealing with the "rat's nest", there is one key, which is establish wire routes. Have all your trunk wires follow a set path. You'll always have wires branching out to tracks and accessories, but it doesn't have to look messy.

I do this on my layout by screwing small nylon loops to the benchwork, then running a zip tie through the loop to form a hanger. I never drill holes in the wood for wiring. This makes changes really easy. Even after you've tightened the tie, if you have to add wires to the trunk, you just put a second tie through the loop, run your new wires, clip off the old tie, and tighten the new one. Everything stays nice and neat.

Contrary to the opinions of some here, I NEVER solder any wires under the layout. My entire layout is done with crimp and suitcase connectors. Never any problems.

You mentioned that you may move to a couple of Lion Chief + Engines.  I did not see anyone address that issue in regard to your wiring.  And, further to be totally transparent, I do not have any LC+ engines, but the communication vehicle for them, I believe, is Bluetooth.  Bluetooth is an over the air communication protocol.  I therefore see no issue with your wiring being a "Rat's Nest"  The commands from the Lion Chief application goes right from the LC+ remote to the engine over the air.  There is no signal through the wiring as is the case for TMCC or Legacy.  If you were thinking of going to TMCC or Legacy protocol engine, I may suggest "Kicking the Dog" and doing some rewiring but I am in the group of "Letting the Sleeping Dog Lie".  Don't worry about what is, if it works.