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I got my first Blunami project onto the layout last night, an older PS2 era MTH H10:

I really enjoyed the whole process and I think this board is amazing. I am not running any DCC hardware on my layout, just using the app on some Apple devices.

A few things:

- Bluetooth range doesn't seem to be an issue even with the diecast tender. There was really nothing special about the way I mounted the board, it's just a few mm off the tender floor. I could control the engine reliably from opposite ends of my layout (~36' feet long at its longest).

- Speed control is very much like ERR using BEMF technology. I have yet to set up a speed table for max speed limit. Speed curve is linear. There are some accel, decel, and braking settings to play with. I only have some nominal accel/decel values entered right now, will play with it some more.

- Chuffing seems pretty easy to set up but I am a bit suspicious that the rate increases at higher speeds, speeds which I wouldn't normally run at anyway. Not sure this will be an issue after I get some time to play with the speed tables. I did 'calibrate' the DDE. There are cutoff CVs one can play with and rod clank. That's what you're hearing in the video above.

- PRR whistles are on point. They really only had two anyway but trying to get those for TMCC upgrades/mods means you have to be pretty savvy about hunting for vintage RS4 boards.

- Supply voltage turned out to be a non-issue. I set up a 10amp bridge rectifier with a 470uF cap (what I had on hand) across my nominal ~18VAC track power. The Blunami app was showing ~22-23VDC during the course of operation. I verified this readout on the bench during the install and found it to be very close/close enough. I got some cheap buck/boost boards and went as far as making printed mounts for them but probably won't bother since I feel I'm below the 27VDC max limit.

- Lighting is all LED, 3mm ones for the headlight and backup light, 0402 SMDs for the markers and class lights, cab light and firebox. I used 3.3K resistors for the 3mm LEDS, and 5.8K for the SMDs. These gave me a good baseline brightness at 16-18VAC track voltage. Lighting outputs are supposed to be floated about 1.5VDC so all lighting is isolated.

There is a lot of play value in these boards that's for sure. For those that like to explore and experiment there is a lot to check out. I am only using the app and just accessing the easy CVs with the sliders, etc. You can adjust every sound for volume and reverb and there are some EQ settings too. The price is pretty good considering a full ERR setup is getting close to $300 and your sound choices are limited.   

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I am a fan of the exhaust sounds, I think they sound just right. The two vids I posted are in switcher mode so the cutoff is wide open I believe. Playing with the cutoff is pretty neat. The first vid I posted sounds a lot like some of the old vids I've watched. Lionel's chuff sounds are generally ok, but tend to be a little boomy. MTH sound is generally just awful and I am not a fan.

….I really enjoyed the whole process and I think this board is amazing. I am not running any DCC hardware on my layout, just using the app on some Apple devices.

There is a lot of play value in these boards that's for sure.... You can adjust every sound for volume and reverb and there are some EQ settings too….

I think it sounds good too! Lots to play with…



Like I said in another thread, never looked back.  

I got to tinker with the app some more last night and set up the speed table to dial down the max speed. I'm not sure if it rearranges the speed steps but this seems to run smoother than my ERR-converted stuff. The switcher mode is cool for moving around the yard. Also played around with the chuff sounds and this has some sharp, cracking exhaust sounds when using the light exhaust choices. I always wanted that sound but could never really get it before. The vids above are using one of the medium exhausts. This engine is super loud too and I am going to hunt for some higher wattage speakers. I have master volume set to around 128 or so.

I put the Lionel 50 mm Fatboy speaker in my K Line Hudson after having it upgraded to ERR with Pittman motor and all the goodies by Harmonyards several years ago.   
I know the overwhelming opinion here on the forum, is that it would not improve the ERR Railsounds, but I beg to differ.   It made an amazing difference in my Hudson.   
Lionel Part #  630 - 8029 - 536
I found it by searching the Lionel Parts database with the words:    Fat Boy
Last edited by chris a

Chris, I think that's the one I used, it's the 8ohm version for the single speaker setup. (It appears the 16ohm ones for dual speaker setups are NLA.) I've been keeping a few of these on hand for my projects.

Here's my setup:

IMG_6993

I posted the install pics on SDIV Tim's thread a few days ago: https://ogrforum.com/topic/3rd...conversion-sp-4-10-2

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Last edited by Norm Charbonneau

Yes Norm that's it....   The Blunami makes for a really clean straightforward conversion, board set up......    it's too bad that the 16 ohm dual speaker FatBoys appear to be NLA.    I  have tried to purchase them for over 2 years, no stock, no delivery date... 

If you locate a speaker that sounds even better than the single Lionel RS Fatboy, please share with us.   I suspect the single 50mm 1 watt speaker is likely to go NLA in the near future, if not already.

Nice job Norm. Like your disappointment with the PRR Whistle choices, I share the same sentiment in another aspect.  I have a Lionel G Scale Thomas and James that got converted and are deadrail with battery power. The British and some of the single chime whistles didn't sit right with me. I like the Heisler whistle and the Frisco 1522 Steam boat whistle for those two. Some of the whistles could probably pass off as PRR whistle alternatives.

Yes, there are quite a few choices for the exhaust and many adjustments available. You can pick a few of each different type of exhaust (light, medium, heavy) and also choose articulated and three cylinder version options plus geared. If you set up the DDE it makes the exhaust match the  changing load. When just using the throttle, it’s much like TMCC and Legacy where the intensity and cutoff change with its use. There’s also manual cutoff and that’s what you heard in the first vid being set all the way to drift. It’s use is explained here on page 6:

https://soundtraxx.com/content...steam_usersguide.pdf

Great thread. We've had a lot of luck with Blunami upgrades in locomotives recently, diesel sounds are also great, wide variety of horns available on the stock board. Cheap and easy upgrades to older engines, huge improvement in sound effects. My friend Johnny Nguyen recently upgraded my 3rd Rail TA with Blunami and it is excellent. He also is installing it in a pair of older Atlas O diesel switchers I bought on Ebay. Like Norm I'm a believer and will likely use it for most if not all upgrades rather than pirating a Legacy board or using PS3. The ability to run it on anyone's layout is a feature I don't think was mentioned here. If you can run 18V to the track on your layout, you can run Blunami engines on it, just using a mobile phone since they are controlled via Bluetooth. No control system base required or special wiring. Don't want to use your phone? You can grab an older generation iPhone or Android phone from Ebay and use that as your controller. Great for clubs, or larger layouts where you let friends come over to run. You can run Legacy, DCS, and Blunami all at the same time.

Raif Palmer

@MPC1974 posted:

I don't think was mentioned here. If you can run 18V to the track on your layout, you can run Blunami engines on it, just using a mobile phone since they are controlled via Bluetooth.



Not sure if that was clear in my first post but yes, Blunami is very friendly to an existing 3 rail command control layout. No hardware needed, just a phone or a tablet/iPad. It's kind of like using the Lionchief BT app for a BT-equipped Legacy engine but way better.

Enjoyed the video. I really prefer a remote for running trains. Mostly for me there’s just to much going on with what’s on the screen. I like the Blunami approach as it looks like it covers all I need on the main screen.

I purchased a so called Legacy 0-8-0 years ago. Totally useless as a switcher with the boards they used. It now sits on a shelf. What perked my interest was the switcher mode on the Blunami and watching your engine crawl. Which I’m guessing cuts the steps sort of in half for more precise speed. Legacy does the same thing.
No antenna nor chuff switch needed. I don’t run smoke. As far as communicating with the engine. Doing switching moves I’d never be that far away from it. I may have found my first victim.

don't think its been mentioned here but the Blunami also has a socket to plug in a keep alive capacitor with helps for some of those pesky dead spots. also I am using Tang Band speakers , much smaller but they are built int an enclosure and have very good Base. the ones I am using appear to have two speakers in the enclosure one small and one larger.

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