Hi, so while plugging in the power cable to the wiu the power “socket” came loose from the wiu internal board...is there an alternative way to power up the wiu short of soldering the connection on the board again? Thanks in advance for everyones help.
ken
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How good are your soldering skills!! It can be reconnected.
Something to ponder for discussion....
As the larger USB A connector does output the same 5 volts that comes into the smaller B connector can the WIU be powered via the larger A connector with something like this:
This cable has one male connector to pass data & power and the other male connector is used to supplement power only.
Yes, was thinking same thing with the larger A connector as well, also even “laying” the brolen piece on top of snapped off portion of board produces zero results....as far as my soldering skills, they suck 😄.
This happens so often that MTH issued a service bulletin addressing the replacement. 
I've received quite a few of these boxes to repair the jack. If it were soldered on properly at the factory, this wouldn't be such an issue.
The arrows show where the jack should have been soldered, and the other shots show what I did to make sure it didn't come off again.
The replacement jack is Digi-Key P/N - WM3756CT-ND.
Make sure you solder both sides of the PCB where the support tabs come through, that's what was missing in the original installation.
You may also have to solder a jumper from the 5V to the jack if that trace has been ripped off the board. It goes to the pin of the chip next to the U1 designation. The other four connections are all ground, so don't worry about solder bridges between them.
I went through Barry's DCS WiFi companion book and I don't see any other way to power it other than that mini-USB port.
It looks like one of the pads broke off on the left side of where the port used to be. To fix it, you'll have to follow the trace to the next component and solder a jumper wire there - or carefully scrape off some of the insulation over the trace and solder to that.
I would send it to an ASC or experienced tech for repair. That connector should really have been reinforced some more IMHO.
Edit: I see GRJ beat me to the punch... He knows what's what, and can probably have you fixed up quickly. 
I had one fall off, I dropped by a local electrical repair shop and he soldered it back on in 5 minutes for $20 seems the fastest way to get it done.
@kj356 posted:I had one fall off, I dropped by a local electrical repair shop and he soldered it back on in 5 minutes for $20 seems the fastest way to get it done.
Just curious as I have zero tech experience...would a local repair shop know automatically where to solder it back on just by looking at the board?
@gunrunnerjohn posted:This happens so often that MTH issued a service bulletin addressing the replacement.
The arrows show where the jack should have been soldered, and the other shots show what I did to make sure it didn't come off again.
The replacement jack is Digi-Key P/N - WM3756CT-ND.
Make sure you solder both sides of the PCB where the support tabs come through, that's what was missing in the original installation.
Thanks so very much for your info...extremely helpful!!
@gunrunnerjohn posted:This happens so often that MTH issued a service bulletin addressing the replacement.
The arrows show where the jack should have been soldered, and the other shots show what I did to make sure it didn't come off again.
The replacement jack is Digi-Key P/N - WM3756CT-ND.
Make sure you solder both sides of the PCB where the support tabs come through, that's what was missing in the original installation.
You may also have to solder a jumper from the 5V to the jack if that trace has been ripped off the board. It goes to the pin of the chip next to the U1 designation. The other four connections are all ground, so don't worry about solder bridges between them.
John
How old is that service bulletin? I bought a new WIU last year. Should I be concerned that this may happen?
Yes tech showed me it was pretty simple to figure out that they had not soldered the mounting tabs at the factory as shown in the pic above. Any electrical repair shop should be able to do it.
Well, I'd define "electrical repair shop" before you turn it over to them. They are soldering on a PCB, and if they don't have a decent soldering iron, that may be curtains for the WIU.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:This happens so often that MTH issued a service bulletin addressing the replacement.
The arrows show where the jack should have been soldered, and the other shots show what I did to make sure it didn't come off again.
The replacement jack is Digi-Key P/N - WM3756CT-ND.
Make sure you solder both sides of the PCB where the support tabs come through, that's what was missing in the original installation.
Hey gunrunnerjohn, quick question as I have zero skills in soldering but have a basic “common sense” question. I ordered the replacement jack (got 3 in the event i mess up any) and placed it on the board where old one was (no solder) . It sits flush and feels like a solid connection...i then slipped the power end of the power supply into jack and held it tightly onto
the board....nothing lit up. Am I wrong to assume that something on the board should have lit up as the points of contact seem to have been made even WITHOUT the solder? Before I order a soldering kit and delve into something I have never done before just want to ask. Thanks so much for all your help so far!
Nothing lit up here either, no picture.
It's probably not realistic to think it'll work without soldering, truthfully I've never considered trying that. All they're looking for is 5VDC from the adapter.
@Maverick0394 posted:
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Nothing lit up here either, no picture.
It's probably not realistic to think it'll work without soldering, truthfully I've never considered trying that. All they're looking for is 5VDC from the adapter.
Tried the soldering the tabs with zero results...definitely due to my amateur skills lol...@gunrunnerjohn, any chance you do this type of stuff for a price? Am desperate at this point. Thank you so much in advance my friend.
Send me an email and we'll work something out. 
Same thing just happened to me as I finished connecting all accessories and ready to Run My Trains. Tried soldering and no success. Would it work to remove the connector and solder the wired from the power source directly?
@Curtf posted:Would it work to remove the connector and solder the wired from the power source directly?
As long as you solder to the correct places and get the polarity correct. If not, you'll get smoke instead of WiFi.
Thanks, will try carefully to see if the wires can be direct.
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