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@ThatGuy posted:

If that’s the only part broken, try locktight glue/gel. Let it sit and it might be fine.

do the parts go together perfectly?

They do go together perfectly, and I have it glued and drying overnight. If available though, I’d prefer to replace the part. It’s a pretty high stress part and if the glue itself doesn’t hold I’ll probably drill and dowel it. Thanks for the locktight tip though. May try it as well.

I'd be using JB-WELD, for something like that CA adhesive doesn't have much sheer strength.

Another option I may try. The car is pretty light so most of the force will be pulling. Strategically placing it towards the rear will probably help as well. I’m guessing at this point through research that the part is most likely not available.

I’ll try some glueing and maybe a dowel pin horizontally. Heck, maybe I’ll try to 3d print a new part for it.

If you can, drilling a small hole and sticking a pin in it will greatly help with it's strength once you glue it.

If the glue on it now fails, the plan will be to drill a hole from the broken end of each piece outward and pin (dowel) it. Should be stronger than original at that point. I think we’re saying the same thing with slightly different words. Didn’t think about it until after I panicked and stole the wife’s super glue. 😂

the one labeled "with pivot pin" looks out of stock

You can add an out of stock item to a wish list for back ordering.

This looks like a great item for a custom print job!

That’s it. Thank you sir. I’ll try to repair mine and then get on the list for a replacement.

the one labeled "with pivot pin" looks out of stock

You can add an out of stock item to a wish list for back ordering.

This looks like a great item for a custom print job!

Would you say the BNSF is brown or burgundy? I see different part numbers for each but they look the same. I got on the list for both but wonder if they will ever be made again. The yellow is in stock and I could always paint it. It’s repaired for now but I would still like the part replaced someday.

I'd buy the yellow part and try to color match it.  No repair is likely to match the strength of the new part.

I’ll probably just do that. There’s no telling if they will ever make the correctly colored part again. I can’t imagine it’s in very high demand.



*edit.
Ordered. $10 to ship a $4 part. Love it. 😂

Last edited by David K. Simpson

Love my twin stacks but the hand rails are the easiest pieces to break off trying to get them out of the box!!

Luckily none of mine broke (yet). This was a new (used) purchase and the only shipping damage is what’s in the picture. Amazed at how thin the hand rails are though as well as the fact that they are plastic! Mine are a little bent but I don’t want to mess with them too much.

If replacement parts are not available, you might try getting someone to 3D print you the part. Contact Alanrail on this forum. He was very responsive to my request. My part was not stressed, so I don't know how well what you need will hold up, but it is worth the shot.

Best of luck to you with this project.

Chris

LVHR

The thought I had was to take off a set of the good parts, make RTV molds, and use low-melt metal to make metal replacements. I had one snap on me and I've ordered replacements and spares, but I think a long-term fix would be some type of metal connections instead of the plastic ones. Lost was/lost plastic would be ideal, but expensive and time-consuming.

You are going to need a new part to fix that. Its the drawbar between cars and will take the tension load of all the cars behind it in the train.  Gluing it may hold, but probably not for long.  Its screwed on so that the screws take the load of the train.  I assume its pot metal (I dont have any MTH ones, but the atlas ones seem to suffer the same problem), and its just a poor choice of material for this application given the unreliability of the material properties of this stuff. It probably would be better reproduced in aluminum or brass, but obviously that costs money. If the part is available in MTH in any color, I'd buy a few... cuz its bound to happen again.

You are going to need a new part to fix that. Its the drawbar between cars and will take the tension load of all the cars behind it in the train.  Gluing it may hold, but probably not for long.  Its screwed on so that the screws take the load of the train.  I assume its pot metal (I dont have any MTH ones, but the atlas ones seem to suffer the same problem), and its just a poor choice of material for this application given the unreliability of the material properties of this stuff. It probably would be better reproduced in aluminum or brass, but obviously that costs money. If the part is available in MTH in any color, I'd buy a few... cuz its bound to happen again.

The part is plastic. It’s glued for now but a new yellow part is ordered and has been shipped. I’ll paint it to match. Other than that I agree with everything you’ve said.

@AGHRMatt posted:

The thought I had was to take off a set of the good parts, make RTV molds, and use low-melt metal to make metal replacements. I had one snap on me and I've ordered replacements and spares, but I think a long-term fix would be some type of metal connections instead of the plastic ones. Lost was/lost plastic would be ideal, but expensive and time-consuming.

I did exactly this with the G scale version of the Roadrailer from Aristo. I made spares because of how fragile they are.

David,

Where did you order the part from?  Upon opening a present from "Santa" one of the twin stacks had the same broken part this morning.

Darren

Straight from MTH. Part got here in 2 days. There are links posted above but sometimes they don’t link to the actual product so just search “truck support” and they come up. $4 each. $10 shipping.

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