Cab 1L vs Cab 1 Replacement? Or Maybe repairs?

The Cab 1L will not work with the Cab 1 base. I am not sure of repairs for the hand unit but I'm sure others will chime in here. You might consider though the Cab 1 you have being old, might look pretty much as it did new, but all these will eventually wear out even though it looks the same on the outside. I would seriously suggest you consider the purchase of a new unit, be it Cab 1L or Cab 2.

Ray

Thanks for the tip Ray, I would get the Cab 1L but I just don't want to purchase an entirely new base when only a remote is not working.  My TMCC base is working fine, and I only own two legacy locomotives out of the 5-6 command locomotives in my fleet so I don't see the advantages of getting a quillable horn.  

If you have a clean pencil eraser, you can dissemble the CAB-1 handheld, clean the small pads that make contact with the printed area in the location of the button that does not work.

It is one of those, no harm no foul things.

choochoopaul posted:

If you have a clean pencil eraser, you can dissemble the CAB-1 handheld, clean the small pads that make contact with the printed area in the location of the button that does not work.

It is one of those, no harm no foul things.

 

Hmmm.......

I've never tried that before.  I'll give it a shot.  I actually have an art eraser that would be perfect for the task.  I'll let you know.

You should use a non-abrasive eraser like an artist's gum eraser to clean the black smudges off the circuit board.  Next, apply some Keypad Fix to the ends of the rubber posts on the back of the buttons.  Let it dry overnight, then put the Cab-1 back together.  I have done this with a few and they work like new again.  It only takes a light touch on the button to make it work.  Here's a link to the Keypad Fix that I got (it was mentioned on another thread on this forum).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/290658760252

So I've taken the back off the remote and I've removed the two screws holding the circuit board into the remote, is there a special way to remove and reinstall the board so I can clean it?  This is my only remote and I don't want to break it.  I'm great at weathering and layout wiring but when it comes to taking apart trains and remotes and fiddling with circuit boards I get paranoid.  Here's a picture of the remote opened if that helps.  

Bob posted:

You should use a non-abrasive eraser like an artist's gum eraser to clean the black smudges off the circuit board.  Next, apply some Keypad Fix to the ends of the rubber posts on the back of the buttons.  Let it dry overnight, then put the Cab-1 back together.  I have done this with a few and they work like new again.  It only takes a light touch on the button to make it work.  Here's a link to the Keypad Fix that I got (it was mentioned on another thread on this forum).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/290658760252

 

Do you think I could pick that up at staples or another office supply store or somewhere?  I'd rather not shop on Ebay.

It’s not using those carbon coating on rubber pads setup? If that carbon gets rubbed off, it’s pretty much hopeless.

The new units, are actually upgrades to train control...you could look at replacing the base in that light .

cjack posted:

It’s not using those carbon coating on rubber pads setup? If that carbon gets rubbed off, it’s pretty much hopeless.

The new units, are actually upgrades to train control...you could look at replacing the base in that light .

Again, I don't really feel like spending the money to buy the new base when my old one works perfectly fine. I'm not sure what you mean by the carbon coating on the pads, but the in the picture, the side facing the floor is the front of the remote.  The pads you are talking about are on the other side.  

I just meant that I’ve had many remotes that used a carbon coated pad on rubber which shorted across two closely spaced copper pads to select an action. Once that carbon had worn off, there was no fix.

i understand the logic of not replacing something that works, but that also severely limits one’s horizons to the past.

PR&NJRR posted:

I would get the Cab 1L but I just don't want to purchase an entirely new base when only a remote is not working.  My TMCC base is working fine, and I only own two legacy locomotives out of the 5-6 command locomotives in my fleet so I don't see the advantages of getting a quillable horn.  

One other factor you may want to keep in mind. As has been noted by many (including Lionel), the Legacy control system not only allows access of Legacy features, but with Legacy the operation of TMCC engines is improved as well. 

I too had the problems with the pads not working.  I got the replacement pads to put over top of the squiggly PC board icons and it works great.  Here is the thread that I had started and with the replies.  There is also a video with the pads on how to doit.

https://ogrforum.com/...tecontroller-6-12868

Well I go back to college at the end of the week and come back two weeks after.  I could probably take it to a store and have them look at it while I'm gone.

"So I've taken the back off the remote and I've removed the two screws holding the circuit board into the remote, is there a special way to remove and reinstall the board so I can clean it?"

In addition to the 2 screws with washers (one on either side of the board), there is a 3rd screw (no washer) next to the black box that holds the radio crystal.  Remove that screw and you can tilt the circuit board up, clean the surface and remove the rubber keypad.

"It’s not using those carbon coating on rubber pads setup? If that carbon gets rubbed off, it’s pretty much hopeless."

"I’ve had many remotes that used a carbon coated pad on rubber which shorted across two closely spaced copper pads to select an action. Once that carbon had worn off, there was no fix."

I used to think so, too until I tried the Keypad Fix product.  The difference is amazing.  There are lots of positive reviews by people who used it to fix TV remotes.

"Do you think I could pick that up at staples or another office supply store or somewhere?  I'd rather not shop on Ebay."

How about Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/Keypad-...Copper/dp/B0026PRMVM

PR&NJRR posted:

Bob posted:

You should use a non-abrasive eraser like an artist's gum eraser to clean the black smudges off the circuit board.  Next, apply some Keypad Fix to the ends of the rubber posts on the back of the buttons.  Let it dry overnight, then put the Cab-1 back together.  I have done this with a few and they work like new again.  It only takes a light touch on the button to make it work.  Here's a link to the Keypad Fix that I got (it was mentioned on another thread on this forum).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/290658760252

 

Do you think I could pick that up at staples or another office supply store or somewhere?  I'd rather not shop on Ebay.

Same item on Amazon Keypad Fix.

Sure, but the Amazon price is higher.

$12.95 if you're a Prime member on Amazon.

$5.95 + $3.50 shipping or $9.45 from a US supplier on eBay.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Sure, but the Amazon price is higher.

$12.95 if you're a Prime member on Amazon.

$5.95 + $3.50 shipping or $9.45 from a US supplier on eBay.

That is true, I only showed that option because he complained about ordering from EBay.

A new cab 1 with base is $149 online and a new cab 1L with base is $200.

i didn't find a new 1 without the base and a used one would sorta defeat your purpose since you have a used one. Ha

There are a number of new Cab1s without base for sale on ebay.

spend the extra dollars and get the cab1L

don't get old technology

I do like the idea of a cab-1L for backup and kids/guests although I have no legacy locos as of yet. 

GVDobler posted:

I do like the idea of a cab-1L for backup and kids/guests although I have no legacy locos as of yet. 

I agree, it would be fun for when my cousins come over or something, but I think I'll try the keypad fix or take it to my local train store and have them look at it.  

Gentlemen,

  I agree with picking up a Cab1L and Base 1L also, then if it's not real expensive have the original Cab1 repaired also.  Then after you are fully addicted to the Legacy Engines, invest in a 990 Legacy Unit farther down stream.  Eventually having both the Ca1L and the Legacy 990 being the ultimate goal for Lionel Control, then circle around and pick up the DCS and you got it all.  Even better if you already have FasTrack, because both the Cab1L and the Cab2 will operate the FTCC Switches remotely with absolutely no wiring. This Lionel engineering is some of the best ever developed.

Go for it.

PCRR/Dave