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I'm pretty good with squares and triangles - but circles and arcs and degrees are spinning me 'round and 'round. So, here's my question:

 

How many pieces of 40" flex with one inch cut from the 'inside' rail would it take to make a 1/2 circle? (outside rail left at 40" in all cases)  And, how large the diameter of that 1/2 circle?

 

Is there a formula that can be applied for the length of the inside rail to know the arc/degree, # of pieces, etc?

 

If you decide to use a set number of pieces, how do you calculate the length of the inside rail to ensure that quantity will form a 1/2 circle?

If you want to be able to mate up to smaller pieces (all at 22.5° or 11.25° ) how do you calculate the length of the inside rail with the outside rail at 40"?

 

(Note: I tried a custom radius in RR Track but the largest diameter seems to be constrained to 101.86")(and, I'm not sure i am using that function correctly)

Last edited by Mark440
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David -

That's pretty much where I started. Somewhere i think I have it twisted in my head as the result I am getting just doesn't 'seem' right. Working with 16 pieces I get a circumference (i.e.  16 x 39.75" = 636), that result divided by Pi....then divide by 12...to yield a diameter of 16.871 feet.

 

For a 40" piece of track....well, it just doesn't seem "large" enough.

 

FWIW - this isn't all in vain. I'm trying to plot post positions for an outdoor setup. Flex track might/should/could be a bit more forgiving to work with (and yield a larger turn) than pre-defined track.

Assuming that the outer rail is not cut and each section is 40", your first question is what diameter curve can you get.Your first hurtle is bending the track without kinking it.

 

2 sections 80/pi = 25.46

3 sections 120/pi = 38.19

4 sections 160/pi = 50.92

(I wouldn't even try these)

 

5 sections 200/pi = 63.66 maybe

6 sections 240/pi = 76.39 probably

 

O gauge track is spaced at 1.25". So 76.39-2.5 = 73.89 (inside diameter)

 

73.89*pi/6 = 38.69 the length of the inside rail on each section.

 

There's the math. If I'm wrong on any of my assumptions, I'm sure we'll hear about it. Good luck.

 

Gilly

 

BTW, there are benders you can buy for use with flex track. If I were doing it, that would be my first purchase.

Gilly, I take it O gauge flextrack is significantly different from HO gauge flextrack in workability? I've seen comments saying ScaleTrax flex is easier to work with. Is that true or do you recommend a tool for that too? I assume the tool is only needed if bending it for curves rather than just for sweeping curves on straight runs?

Mark - that's what I also got. Somehow i co-mingled (synapse mis-fire!) the number of pieces and the diameter...and well, my visualization hit a snow bank.

 

Still. 16 pieces to the full circle is based on 22.5° bend for each piece. I don't know that I am on the right path in that regard.

 

Ultimately, I am trying to get to about 30 feet diameter on the one end of this loop. The area of yard is a curved cone shape and lies between a retaining wall and a brick pathway. The wide end is about 35 feet and the narrow end is about 10 feet, with an overall length of about 80 feet. Hence the need for the cut measurements for each piece for the end loop backs. Once I know the lengths of the loop backs, I can then plot the post placement based on X distance between posts for support.

Last edited by Mark440
Originally Posted by Gilly@N&W:

Dave,

 

My limited experience with flex track is Atlas solid rail, nickel. It is a bugger to bend. I would assume that everything else is probably easier to handle. And yes, if I were doing it, I'd invest in a bender. Kink or mess up just a few pieces of track and the bender is "free".

 

Gilly

Gilly - are the benders so equipped that you can set a degree of bend, or are they more of the variety of trial and error? I should note that all of the track is Atlas.

 

I had considered buying a planetary bender for the support structure but opted out due to the expense of it.

Last edited by Mark440

Mark,

 

The more common approach to track bending is to mark out the position of the centerline of the track as desired on your property. Some large plywood templates of the desired curve may help with the accuracy of the plotting. The curves themselves are "drawn" using string of the required length (radius) as a compass to swing the arcs.

 

Then bend your curves to follow this arc. The number of track pieces is immaterial since you will be cutting and bending as required to follow the centerline you plotted.

 

Very often, the last couple inches of each flex section cannot be bent accurately and should be cut off to achieve a smooth curve and avoid kinks. Trying to use every inch of every track section may be an exercise in futility.

 

Jim

Last edited by Jim Policastro
Originally Posted by Mark440:
Originally Posted by Gilly@N&W:
Dave,

My limited experience with flex track is Atlas solid rail, nickel. It is a bugger to bend. I would assume that everything else is probably easier to handle. And yes, if I were doing it, I'd invest in a bender. Kink or mess up just a few pieces of track and the bender is "free".

Gilly
Gilly - are the benders so equipped that you can set a degree of bend, or are they more of the variety of trial and error?


This one looks pretty trial and error, if this is what he's talking about.

Originally Posted by Jim Policastro:

Mark,

 

The more common approach to track bending is to mark out the position of the centerline of the track as desired on your property. Some large plywood templates of the desired curve may help with the accuracy of the plotting.

 

Then bend your curves to follow this arc. The number of track pieces is immaterial since you will be cutting and bending as required to follow the centerline you plotted.

 

Very often, the last couple inches of each flex section cannot be bent accurately and should be cut off to achieve a smooth curve and avoid kinks. Trying to use every inch of every track section may be an exercise in futility.

 

Jim

Good point, Jim. I was edging toward being able to pre-cut the pieces for easier assembly/controlled waste rather than piece-by-piece custom cuts. The support structure will force some conformity...and I still have concerns about the ends of each piece.

 

As for the exercise in futility, I'm one of those guys who - at leisure - can get covered up in analysis paralysis...and all so that the hind site isn't quite so regrettable! The former costs me only time, while the latter has chewed up more than I would mention! I guess it comes from an old boss who drove home on every project to plan for what we don't know for certain.

Mark,

 

I totally understand the "analysis paralysis" syndrome!

 

I was a victim for quite a while until I adopted a more practical - plan less, just get going with it - mentality. I have been getting much more accomplished that way in recent years.

 

Just an added note on rail benders - these require you to remove the rail from the ties for bending, then reinsert back into the tie strip. This is not always possible with some brands of O gauge flex track. For example, the tiny plastic nibs holding Atlas rail are prone to breaking when this is attempted.

 

Jim

 

 

Last edited by Jim Policastro

I will toss in that ScaleTrax does not need a tool to bend, the stuff is like a noodle compared to other brands.  I can bend it down to O-20 with my hand.

I highly recommend the Videos at  www.toytrainsontracks.com for working with flex scaletrax. I have the first 2 and they make it look easy. There are lots of other layout tips in them as well.  And some decent video of trains running on ScaleTrax to see if you like it.

Jim -

It took me awhile - but I was finally able to work through the issue. The key was the desire to be able to mate up to pre-defined curves from Atlas O - all of which are at 22.5° or 11.25°...which dictates either 16 or 32 pieces of track for a circle. From there, the rest was an easy formula.

 

And while just forging ahead has validity - these days i am more apt to plan..and plan some more. I really like just taking steps forward.

Originally Posted by DoubleDAZ:
Russell, are those the Black Diamond videos you are talking about? That was all done in ScaleTrax? $80 for RR-Track and $50 for videos, $30 for the DCS book, when do I get to lay some track? 

Yep. Besides the lifetime supply of motor grease, ijust picked up for $4 and the coal I glued to a coal car last night, I haven't found the inexpensive part of the hobby yet . I do think track planning software pays for itself, in extra track not bought though.

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