Chain link fence material

Did you try rolling it the opposite direction?

I also tried the aluminum window screen technique and had luck with gently applying heat to it using a heat gun.then placing a heavy object on top for awhile.Then after fashioning 'posts' from heavy gauge wire and attaching them to the screen they remained taut and flat.Time consuming but the results were decent.

How much do you need ?

As an alternative, Woodland Scenics makes a good looking and easily installed 48" long - O scale chain link fence with gates (signs are mine) for $19.99.

@Farmall-Joe posted:

Did you try rolling it the opposite direction?

Yep, that's the ticket!

The best thing about aluminum screen IMHO is its dimensional stability -- it tends to hold its shape without external support, which is really needed for plastic screening or cloth mesh options. It can also be a downside, as you found out. if you can, unroll enough to do your project, then reroll it a bit tighter in the reverse direction, then release. Any remaining bow can either be flattened out when attaching it to the frame, or you can place the 'low' ends on supports and put a small weight in the middle for a while, to bow it a bit back in the opposite direction. It's a bit fiddly to get it right, but the results can be worth it IMHO:

Fiberglass screen works great. You can glue it to posts with crazy glue and an accelerator. You can cut it on a diagonal to get the chain link effect.

I use Bridal Toul Fabric and Evergreen Strip/Styrene for posts and rails. Get it in any place that sells fabric. It lays flat

and is easy to work with.

I am a also fan of using tulle ( bridal veil ).  There are two white plain types, i prefer the smaller weave for fencing. 14 gauge copper wire makes fence assembly easy.

I did an article in the magazine about this some time ago.  This is very quick and easy.  It is all soldered together too so it is very strong.

This is a lumber yard I put chain link fence around. I looked for an easy way to accomplish this and I came up with using Woodland Scenics Fencing.  It was not expensive and came in sections with the fence supports. Also included in their package are gate sections.  I used a piece of sheet rock as a base and sections of the fencing came with extension's that will anchor the fencing in place. Once installed, I used a sand colored tile groat over white glue to make the yard driveway. The lumber building was scratch built and detailed.  One caution when ordering the fencing, make sure you identify you need "O" guage. I bought several HO packages not paying attention and it wasn't clearly marked.

I've used a very fine bridal toul for O scale window screens.  It comes in many different colors, one of which closely resembles galvanized steel.  I never thought about using any for a fence, but if I can find some that is "courser" I will use it in a heartbeat.  

Thanks folks, for all the suggestions.

Tom,

This maybe the same material from a fabric store…was light green.

I have used the bags from lemons/limes then painted silver.

A friend used panty hose material for fencing. It is made in many usable colors as a plus.

I have used aluminum screen as others note cut on diagonal and glued to posts I made from painted dowels, and plastic shapes.  Gluing it to the posts solved the bending issue.  

Well, I couldn't find ant toul that wasn't too fine to work.  It is very suitable for O scale window screens and is great to work with, but I need larger "holes" to look like chain link.

Maybe I'll go to Woodland Scenics after all.

Thanks again.

I'm with Alan:  Fiberglass screening is the best balance of ease of use, durability, and appearance.

Well now.  Amazon delivered the nylon screen earlier today and a short burst of color from a rattle can has convinced me that this is exactly what I need.

I have some other things to do to finish this project and will send pics when I'm closer to finishing it.

Thanks for all the help.

Alright, I may have jumped the gun on this.  I used Rustoleum light gray spray primer and followed it up with flat steel spray over that.  Here it is eight days later and the stuff is still tacky damp.

Suggestions  and comments on what I did or didn't do to create this?

@Forty Rod posted:

Alright, I may have jumped the gun on this.  I used Rustoleum light gray spray primer and followed it up with flat steel spray over that.  Here it is eight days later and the stuff is still tacky damp.

Suggestions  and comments on what I did or didn't do to create this?

Mmm, did the primer coat dry fully first (like overnight)? Was it non-tacky? Are the primer and paint both good when used on other surfaces?

I'd suggest a few tests on scraps of the screening. One (or both) of the coats may not be playing well with the plastic screen material, and/or the paints themselves may have gone bad or not been mixed properly. If all else fails, try using water-based paints like acrylic.

Steve, you just hit on every question I don't have an answer for.  Thanks.  It gives me base to start from.  

(And it looks SO GOOD, too.)

@Forty Rod posted:

Steve, you just hit on every question I don't have an answer for.  Thanks.  It gives me base to start from.  

(And it looks SO GOOD, too.)

Thanks -- IME, figuring out what went wrong and coming up with a suitable response is half the battle in this hobby!

Directions on Rustoleum spray cans say you  should respray within 1 hour or after 24 hours. I suspect you didn't wait 24 hours.

Coulda been.  I've been known to rush things.  Thanks for the info.

Okay, here are the results:  Five different paints, all are still sticky.  Temperature is at 70 degrees and humidity has been right close to 75% the whole time.

Haven't tried acrylics yet and I really like the look of Testor's (Rustoleum)  aerosol spray best

Could it be the nylon I got from Amazon?  Maybe some kind of coating?

Should I wash the nylon next time before I spray?

I'm still looking for a solution and am open to any suggestions.

Krylon (Acrylic) seems to be working.  I'll give it another day or two to make sure, but so far it looks great and is dry to the touch after a couple of hours.

Next question: this is going to be around a factory building and I'm looking at an 8 foot high fence.  Does that seem too much to anyone?

@Forty Rod posted:

Next question: this is going to be around a factory building and I'm looking at an 8 foot high fence.  Does that seem too much to anyone?

Not at all. An eight-foot fence (a couple of inches high, at O scale) seems pretty much a minimum in a commercial setting IMHO. It's really a matter of how important it is (for security and/or safety) to keep the hoi polloi out. If you're not clear, perhaps you can do some research to find photos of the prototype structures and industries you have in mind, and see what is typical IRL, to either validate your instincts or offer guidance on what *is* typical. In any event, the only result that really matters is what pleases you . . .