Cleaning tubular track

I don't think that removing the tin plating will alter the conductivity of the track,when I solder the wire drops to the track I clean the track with a wire brush.I clean my track with Acetone on a white rag.

Mikey

I don't see much difference in conductivity between tin coating and steel rails - you have to get a good electrical contact between the rollers and the rail.  Sparking or poor engine operation would indicate a cleaning is needed.  The tin plate is corrosion protection and I have not noted old and tarnished track having a problem - the key to good conductivity is a clean, corrosion-free, surface for roller and wheel contact.

Since my "layout" is a collection of modules stored in a not so "cool dry place" between club shows, I get grunge and corrosion on exposed tubular rails.  Rather than replace track, I have been using metal polish to clean the track to a shiny surface on the rail heads.  The brand of metal polish doesn't seem to matter and Brasso works as well as the more costly brands.   Some of the track lost it's tin plating years ago (probably from aggressive cleaning with Scotchbrite pads) and the polish removes light rust in addition to oil and dirt.  Using soft cloths instead of Scotchbrite  is probably a bit kinder to the thin tinplate coating on modern track.

I also note that ever since smoke fluid (a light mineral oil) became a staple for running trains, the oil film on the rails after a show prevents rusting for a while.  Modules cleaned with alcohol or other solvent before storage begin rusting much sooner.  (There was a thread some years ago advocating wiping track with Wahl clipper oil to prevent corrosion.)  Accordingly, my modules get put away wet and cleaned immediately before the next show.

Dan,

I can see nor find any printed benefit achieved from soldering wires to tube track. In many years past wires were soldered to solid hand-laid rail. In recent years most use a solid male spade connector inserted into rail from below. Of course there's the old saying,"To Each Their Own".

Prewar Pappy posted:

Dan,

I can see nor find any printed benefit achieved from soldering wires to tube track. In many years past wires were soldered to solid hand-laid rail. In recent years most use a solid male spade connector inserted into rail from below. Of course there's the old saying,"To Each Their Own".

My take on the soldering is the difference between a mechanical connection and a bonded, it's the best way I can describe it, connection.  In my experience, a mechanical connection is prone to something coming between the two metals.  I have learned from many years of experience having a garden railway, that if you are running track power, the rail clamps available on the market are good for keeping the rails joined, but alot of guys on the garden railway forums still complain about conductivity issues after a couple of years using rail clamps alone without soldering jumpers across each joint.  That's precisely what I did before i converted to battery power in the garden.  A lot of work, but well worth it.

Now as far as our indoor empires go, your method is probably a hell of alot better than the old lock-on.  But being single minded like myself, I will stick with the soldering.  As you say, to each his own.