Clear Coating: To Clear Coat or not

@marshelangelo posted:

Good Afternoon OGR Members:

This one is an info/educational question, I’ve  custom painted two post war F3 locomotives with the intent to make them NYC F7 locomotives. I’ve painted one with a primer, one without - both came out looking the same so far. I’m about to put on decals and grab irons but I’m concerned on whether or not to Clear Coat the trains. So far they have a nice satin finish, I don’t want to add on a gloss finish. I also want to add on Cab Interiors to both engines, one with Crew members, one without. You kind of see where I’m heading. Should I Clear Coat these ?  I’ve attached a photo of my locomotives and a photo of what I want my end result to look like. Thanks 🙏🏽 for sharing your expertise. - MARSHELANGELO

@marshelangelo

Greg:

After weathering locomotives and rolling stock, I spray them with Testors "Dullcote" to seal decals plus any pastels that are used in weathering. Hopefully, this suggestion helps solve your quandary.

Hey Randy, thanks for tuning in, I’ll have to get me some, more so for protecting my work and to avoid scratches etc., and to seal my paint.  Thanks again, I believe that’s the answer I need. - MARSHELANGELO

Yes you should clearcoat over the decals, both to protect them and also to hide the edges. Clearcoat comes in a variety of sheens, so just pick the one that you want.

@Randy Harrison posted:

@marshelangelo

Greg:

After weathering locomotives and rolling stock, I spray them with Testors "Dullcote" to seal decals plus any pastels that are used in weathering. Hopefully, this suggestion helps solve your quandary.

I do the same

I think you need somewhat of a gloss finish for the decals to stick properly, THEN weather (pastels, paint, chalk) and finally overcoat with a dull finish.   

Any should be OK over original production train paints.  For repaints, it is always recommended to use the same brand of clear as your brand and type of color coat. 

But if you re-paint, in all cases take care using the lacquers (read the can!) over acrylic (water based) paints - they can attack the paint.  (They will not damage oil-based paints like Tru-Color or others.)  You can use a lacquer over acrylics-  but spray VERY light misting coats for #1 and #2, then do a final.  And laying a laquer on thick might also damage decals.

Testors Dullcote is the long-standing "go to" dulling finish, but is now shown as an enamel when it was  (I thought) a lacquer in the past.  I have found that the Tamiya Flat Clear (lacquer) works well, and is easier to find in hobby shops and some Hobby Lobby stores.  The Testors Dullcote seems to be harder for LHS (local hobby shops) to keep in stock.  Both Dullcoat and Tamiya Clear are in very small cans, and therefore pretty expensive in use.  A single can might work for just a couple of cars or locos.   

Hobby Lobby had Dullcote but lately has another product that I do not recognize, (Mr. Super Clear) has good ratings.  The Krylon and Rustoleum "Matte Finish" acrylic enamel products are in larger cans  -  less costly to use, so great for scenery or buildings.