converting Lionel scale Alco ATSF PAs to 3 rail scale#1 Pilots

silly question but why not use the OEM die cast pilot?

Not a silly question.

 

I'm making a fixed pilot. The OEM pilot is about a foot too short. I could grind the anti climber and add a piece to the top with a new anti climber, but I'm not sure it would all smooth out and paint well.

 

Who knows,,, if these don't turnout well, I may have to do that.

 

Here half the pilot is roughed out.

Good plan.  When I did mine, I made a plate of very thick brass, then soldered a single wrapped piece of .025 HH brass to it.  After that I cut the coupler pocket and steps.

 

I too have puzzled over the anti-climber.  I removed it from the body casting before making the body mold, but have not figured out how to do it on the pilot yet.

Here is mine - nickel silver A unit, bronze B.  Both MTH.  You can see that I also did new fuel tank skirts and truck side frames.  The model has since gotten springs and brake cylinders on the side frames, and after much struggling I got the stainless grille work back on.

 

Appreciate the info Bob. This is a lot of work. But, I don't want to spend 3 to 5 grand on a key model. My time is cheap.

Have fabricated pilot square holes, made solder fixture. Tomorrow everything comes together,,,I hope.

Wow!

Final shaping and getting ready to fabricate anti-climber and bottom pilot assembly

These might be of help.

Perfect Eric and just in time.

 

Thank you very much!

 

Ron

Almost finished with anti-climber. Making from bar stock and tubes.

I cannot wait to see the anti-climber.  That one has been puzzling me for a while.  I was thinking of stretching three wires, then torch-soldering them, adding the buffer afterward.

 

I solved this dilemma on an SP PA by just making a snowplow pilot.

I'm thinking that when you have the pilot complete, you should make a mold of it so they can be cast and sold to all of us that have Lionel PAs waiting for fixed pilot conversions.... just a thought

I'd buy 2 of them, if not 4

 Laidoffsick,

I appreciate the thought, but I don't know how to do all that. Mold and cast that is.

 

Ron

Ron,  Doug has made a great suggestion about making a mold. Check with a local school or college as most have an art department and could probably help. I've worked in a sculpture studio many moons ago and it's a great process and not too awfully difficult. Must be done correctly so you DO need 'knowledgable help'.

The problem is shrinkage.  There are some very expensive processes that dentists use, but otherwise you need to account for about 4 1/2% shrink.  If you make a larger master, Biob Stevenson can convert it to bronze or nickel silver for you.

I think if I made duplicates, I would go 3 D printing.

But, let's see what the finished pilot looks like. I think it is going to be OK, but my second one for the A unit will be better because of the learning curve with this first attempt.

Ron - Excellent work, very impressive.

Done with anti-climber. Made outer part with plastic solid tubing superglued. No matter how much I tried I couldn" get the bras tubes to work. At least with my limited tools and fat fumbly fingers.

 

Now I'll prime so I can see how much model bondo I'll need before painting.

I think it looks awesome. It would match perfect with the special Gold Warbonnet PA as is.

Thanks Doug.

Bye the way, I have fat fingers too. 6 ft 1 and 250 lbs.

 

Ron

Pilot is essentially finished and fitted magnetically to the chassis. Next smoothy some rough spots with putty and sanding. Next. I will paint, super detail the pilot and add front kadee coupler.

 

Here is a short phone video.

Nice work Ron!  Looks great.

Good job !!

Wonderful craftsmanship.  I second the idea of casting a mold. I am getting line behind doug!

Wow - nice work!  And the difference between the converted lead unit and the second unit is like night and day.

Man that is looking good, and the 2nd one will be even better. Like you said, you learn from any mistakes or things you don't like on the 1st one, so the 2nd one is always better.

 

There has to be someone on this forum who has the materials and know how to cast that thing for you. It don't have to be a perfect cast either. This is what the hobby is all about.... I promise I won't beg

I just built the little side climbers on the pilot. You can see the brass stantions and kinda see the the completed climber with the correct nut on the forward stantion.

This looks great!  I third the idea of a mold...

 

I'll take 5.

Great job Ron, nice to see someone doing some actual modeling

very nice craftsmanship. this really takes the PA's a step above!!!!

Tomorrow, Tuesday I think I can paint and then reveal this first pilot mounted with all the extra detail on it.

 

Thank you all for the kind words.

 

Ron 

Well, I've been delayed. The part is primed but I couldn't find a good rattle can satin silver.

 

Any suggestions????

Well, the Santa Fe always used a bright aluminum paint on the trucks and pilots of their passenger equipment if that helps. Great job on modeling your pilot for the PA.

I have always used ScaleCoat "Aluminum", #S47, for such applications.

The paint and detailing is coming along. Will post some better pictures tomorrow.

It looks pretty good.

Great job. I would buy pilot castings in a heartbeat.

Me three!  These look amazing!  I have some cables, so the cast pilot (with mounting pads for the coupler) would be great!

 

Keep up the good work!

 

- Mario

Well it looks like I'm just going to have to break down and buy an airbrush with a pump and tank. I read most of the subject posts on airbrushes and it appears Pasche and badger are favored.

 

Sooo, I'll start building the second pilot and adding fixed cab ladders and other details until I can do a quality paint job.

 

No sense in screwing up the piece with a crappy paint job.