Custom Lionel switch covers: Update first article replacement

Jeff I could be mistaken here.  But if the switch in your photo is a postwar "O31" (31" outside curve diameter) switch, the product number is 022, not 042.

The confusion comes in because other manufacturers have made switches with a curve diameter of 42", aka O42.  And yes, I agree that it would be nice to have a smaller, more realistic and demure cover for the switch mechanism.

@Ted S: you're sorta right, but sorta not.

The NUMBER 042 switch was the manual-throw switch with an "O31" curve profile, but the switch machine cover near the track is the same height and width as the NUMBER 022 switch which is the automatic version of the 042 switch, also with the "O31" profile curve.

And even more confusing on my end, I've converted several of my older 042 "O31" manual switches to the equivalent of 022 "O31" automatic switches by replacing the lever mechanism with an automatic switch machine and soldering in a non-derail wire.

Either way, the 022 and 042 have similar interferences that I'd like to alleviate. There's a need for some of that volume under the cover, but I think I could shave those inside corners down without causing any problems inside.

If you just leave the cover off do you have enough clearance?

@David Johnston yes, and that's actually our temporary solution for now. But it looks so... Unfinished? Mechanical? The covers are a bit more classy I think.

Had the same problem with 5122 027 switches. Alco RS1's were the culprit. Since mine are right in front of me, I converted them to manual. I took the covers off and tried to keep the solenoids but the frame around the coils was in the way too.

Bob

I may be on O Gauge weirdo, in fact I know I am, and in fact proud of it, which makes me a O Gauge weirdo to the maximum extent, LOL, but I actually love the look of the classic Postwar 022 switches and their switch covers. I know that look is quite toy-like, and not realistic, but I am perfectly fine with that, eventhough I am a hi-railer, indeed soon (I hope) to be officially a NJ Hi-Railer (I'm ecstatic about this prospect because of recent events) and usually love realism.

Putting that weirdness aside for a moment, I have had the issue raised by Jeff the Coaster Kid, and greatly appreciate him raising it and the proposed possible solutions posted on this thread.

IMO, one possible solution is to use a saw, maybe a band saw, and cut off a corner of the 022 switch cover. However. even if this proposed solution would solve the problem, I choose not to do it because I do not want to diminish the charm, iMO, of the look of the O22 switch cover. Arnold

Lionel switches are not the only ones that can have switch machine covers interfere with moving trains.  I had to cut the corners off 3 of my Marx 1590 compact switch machine covers on newest train board with a bunch of track switches in an oval and dog bone tight track plan.  I could not have built my tight layout with Lionel switches with the larger foot print of the switch machines.

Picture of cut off corner of Marx 1590 track switch, you can see another Marx switch in the top of the picture.  There was empty room in under the cover and it was metal

Charlie

Update:

I drew up a replacement in my CAD software and a friend did a really quick and dirty 3D print to check dimensions and function.

First glance, seems pretty good but I still think I have a tiny bit more room to remove even more material. My engineering sample Railking Imperial ES44AC actually clears the cover now, but only just barely.

I'm going to do a second take, then I will upload the CAD files to the 3D repository for anyone who would like to replace their 022 / 042 covers and allow their bigger diesels to clear the O31 curves!

Original cover: fuel tank rides up and over the front edge of the cover and derails the engine at anything but the lowest speed:

3D printed cover with corners cut in to allow fuel tank to clear. Still close, but it doesn't interfere:

Original cover (with the hacked up corner on the backside that looks like crap and all wasn't good enough to clear the fuel tank) next to newly installed cover:

It's rough looking right now, but when I dial in the dimensions I'll get higher quality parts made:

@Jeff_the_Coaster_Guy

Looks like a great solution!!

Nice work!

Jeff,

Fantastic solution.

Quick Update:  I've uploaded the "Normal" and "Modified" switch covers to the 3D Repository.  If anyone wants to grab them and you're a member, they work well for me.

Great.   Want an Idea for an additional modification?   I find the auxilliary power plug on these switch motors easily pull out.   The flange on the plug would be better inside the cover, being held in place by the cover.   A version with slot on the side that would capture the flange on the plug and allow it to be engaged a little farther.   I know you would have to remove the cover to plug it in, but it would never come loose  after that.

@VHubbard posted:

I find the auxilliary power plug on these switch motors easily pull out...

Use 2.1mm "DC coaxial plugs" to keep this to a minimum, right angle plugs are available too. In this way, you can power the switch w/ acc power on the tip to the "booster pin"(coil commons), and then use the sleeve to make another power drop to the track using the now otherwise unused connection to the center rail via the spring tang on the 711-129 terminal plate.

@Jeff_the_Coaster_Guy posted:

Quick Update:  I've uploaded the "Normal" and "Modified" switch covers to the 3D Repository.  If anyone wants to grab them and you're a member, they work well for me.

Several years ago I did a similar mod to the corners of a few 022 switches for the exact same reason. But I covered the opening with a patch of black electricians tape which made it all but invisible. Cheap and dirty but they work just great. Still have those switches in use on the layout.

Thanks for doing up the 3D print patterns, I will download them and print off a couple to try them out! Great work.

Rod

@ADCX Rob posted:

Use 2.1mm "DC coaxial plugs" to keep this to a minimum, right angle plugs are available too. In this way, you can power the switch w/ acc power on the tip to the "booster pin"(coil commons), and then use the sleeve to make another power drop to the track using the now otherwise unused connection to the center rail via the spring tang on the 711-129 terminal plate.

Very clever idea Rob. I never thought of doing that.

Rod