DCC

There are many to choose from, even in a lower price range.

You could compare the NCE, Digitrax, and MRC. Then there's Lenz, Zimo, ....etc. etc.

Even Bachmann came out with a entry level DCC system.

You'll get a lot of "I prefer this one because...."

You really need to try them yourself and study up for the programming!

I have a small switching layout. I have the basic NCE system that I paid about 175.00. Although it is a 2 amp system (more or less for HO) for what I do, it is fine. I usually run only one unit at a time. Most of my locos are Atlas and with 3 or 4 cars on, pulls less that 1/2 amp. With 2 locos a bit less than 1 amp. Instructions are easy to understand. By the 

 

 

Dick

Standard advice is to get a system that guys around you use so you can ask questions if you need to.    Usually you have to ask a few when you get started.

 

Consider the amperage you might want and sound locos use more than just motors.   Basic full size HO systems are usually 5 amps which should be fine for you.  For O scale if want to someday get some bigger locos, there are 8 amp, or 10 amp systems.   Digitrax O system is 8 amps, NCE is 10 amps.  

 

You can add boosters too as you need them at least with a full blown system from NCE, Digitrax, or Lenz.   

 

Something to consider as you do all these jobs is system with radio throttles.   That way you have no plug in cables to worry about while jumping on and off the loco to throw switches or running into the tower to talk to central dispatching.

 

Alan,

From the MRC website, the Trainpower 5 manual.  There is a section labeled "Output Terminals".  In it indicates that terminals 5 and 6 are for track D.C. for connecting power to the tracks.

 

Hope this helps.

Jim

Al,

 

As mentioned already, the most common DCC systems in O Scale are from Digitrax and NCE.  MRC does have a higher amp system as well if you're familiar with the Prodigy line of products, look for the Elite model offering 10A.    MRC has a nice comparison chart located here - http://modelrectifier.com/train-controls/dcc.asp

 

A couple things to keep in mind, the 1.6A and 3A systems may be able to power a couple O scale trains but as you add locomotives, sound, smoke (if you use smoke units) all will create a spike in your Amperage as well as increase the continuous Amp draw. Certainly you can create some power districts, manage where you're locomotives are on the railroad, etc.. Now you're adding more complexity to wiring and operation. 

 

Personally I wouldn't look at anything lower than 5A even for your planned operation, because you'll want something that you can grow with if your plans change.

 

Another important factor will be what system do others around you use? They may be able to offer further support as you learn the system.

 

Look for which system offers the throttle that you like the best, offers wireless or wired operation?

 

So based on what I've heard from you a couple suggestions would be

 

NCE PowerCab + SB5 - Good

NCE PowerPro 5A - Better

 

Digitrax SEBX Super Empire Builder Xtra - Good

Digitrax SEBXD Super Empire Builder Xtra Duplex Radio Equipped - Better

 

 

 

In terms of where to install the DCC decoder in the GP15 carefully open the hatch where the dynamic brake fan is located, or the non-dynamic brake hatch, and you'll see the plugs for the DCC decoder.  I often find it easier to install if I take the whole body off the chassis.  That allows easier access to all the plugs, wires, etc...  Especially for those with larger hands, fingers.  

 

Hi Al,

In O scale, choosing a sound decoder is basically just a matter of
which of the "usual suspects" (see list below) carries the sound file
for your locomotive.  Then you choose from that subset, which sound
decoder falls in your price range and contains the sound features you
want.  Here is a list of more common large scale DCC sound decoder
manufacturers:

ESU Loksound 54500 XL V4.0 0/G Scale Screw Terminal
http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads...loksound-select-usa/

SoundTraxx ECO nami 4.0 Amp
http://www.traintekllc.com/sou...ound-decoder-diesel/

TCS WOW 505 Diesel O Scale  (not yet available but supposed to ship any
day now but their current supported sound file list is rather restricted)
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer...WSound/WOWDiesel.php

Protocraft Super Tsunami (just an HO SoundTraxx Tsunami beefed up to
handle O scale current levels - not all equivalent HO decoders are
supported either, only a reduced list)
http://www.protocraft.com/cate...9C3-7B5075C1711C30BF

QSI Solutions Titan
http://www.traintekllc.com/qsi...scale-sound-decoder/

Zimo is also in there but sometimes hard to find large scale decoders here in the states.

So for your GP15-1, you'll need to look from the list above (go to
respective manufacturer's web site and browse their sound file list)
and look for a diesel sound file that supports an EMD  "non-turbo" 645
12 cylinder prime mover or they may list the actual GP15-1 loco model
that the sound file supports (a GP15T is a different animal so don't
fall into that trap) - basically if the sound file supports the more
common SW1500 then that will work for the GP15-1 as well.  Now...
you'll notice that not all of the sound decoder manufactures listed
above will support a sound file for this GP15-1 (EMD  "non-turbo" 645
12 cylinder prime mover) loco, so your choice becomes that much
"easier" as to which sound decoder you end up going with.

As for plug-n-play or DCC Ready, well...that sounds like it means that
the DC circuit board in the loco is ready for an "Atlas sound board"
that is made for that loco which uses sound technology from 10 or more
years ago, if you can even get one of these older QSI sound boards.  I
would stay away from that old stuff as the new sound from 3rd party
suppliers has much better sound quality and motor control but going the
Atlas sound board route would allow as close as plug-n-play as you are
going to get in O scale.

If you'll notice from the photos of the above sound decoders, all these
3rd party large scale decoders have pretty much a generic board design
with screw terminals around the perimeter so what that means you are
probably going to need to just rip out all the existing circuit boards
from your loco until all you have left is just bare bones wires coming
from the track pickup, motor leads, lights, and speaker (if it is a DC
loco, you'll need to source a speaker that fits in the GP15-1 fuel tank
speaker opening - Atlas generally carries these in their parts
department or find a similar size from a 3rd party).  You can just
attach the new decoder to the empty space on the frame between the two
motors with some double stick foam tape and then start reconnecting all
these wires to their respective new sound decoder screw terminals. 

Getting the motor connected and the sound piece up an running is
easy-peasy.  Follow the instructions and take it slow and you won't let
out the magic smoke that they package with the decoder when they make
it .  Also note, you may need some little pieces of small wire and
some heat shrink tubing to cover the solder joint if you have to grow
out some of the shorter wires left over from removing the old
electronics but not a big deal "if" you even have to do that.  Lights
are a little more involved because you are probably going to have to
put a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resister inline with one of the two leads going
to "each" LED so you don't turn the headlight LEDs into onetime "flash
bulbs".   You can get the heat shrink tubing (all different sizes and
colors available) and resistors off eBay - like $5 for 100 resistors or
even $0.99 for 100 if you are willing to wait a couple of weeks for
shipment  from China. 

Then once the installation is complete, you just put it on the program
track and program it up, such as: decoder address (usually just give it
the loco number), set the volumes, sound mixers, function mapping
(which button on your throttle do you want to control which sound
function), and its just that easy.  Or you can just program up the
address and leave the rest set to the factory defaults.  Also a note on
programming, some of these sound decoder manufacturers have special
programming modules and custom software that hook up to your computer
(such as QSI Solutions) that are a onetime purchase for their brand of
decoder so remember to factor that into the cost but they do make
programming their decoders much, much easier, especially when programming all the
volume controls, functions and mixers.

Go for it... it is not really that hard to install a sound decoder from
scratch and with all the big empty space in O scale, wiring is way easier
than HO.  Once you hear the first prime mover cranks, you'll never look
back.  There's a lot of You Tube videos on installing and programming
DCC sound decoders (mostly HO installs but the principles are the same
for any scale) so browse these vids too.

If you are not comfortable installing one of the sound decoders
yourself, then just box it all up and send it to one of the DCC decoder
installers like Alex at DCC Train in Cincinati, OH and I'm sure he'll
fix you up - he has a bunch of You Tube videos for reference as well.

Scott Kay
Austin, TX

Missing from Scott's list is the new ESU Loksound L - a 3Amp decoder smaller (and cheaper!!) than the XL, and being smaller it fits easier in the hood of US diesels; the XL as far as I'm aware is a bit too wide to be located 'flat' in the hood.
The Loksound L can be programmed with any sound file in ESU's lists, just like the XL.
I've just recently installed a Loksound L in an Atlas Trainman RS3; it sounds great!!
I have also used the 1amp/'HO' TCS Wowsound decoder in an AtlasO GP35. I wired the china-drive motors in series so they don't overload it, although my layout is pretty small by US standards and speeds are mostly slow - full power is not required. Again the TCS sounds are really good.
I also have a Protocraft 'boosted' 3Amp Tsunami. Be aware these have an extra heat-sink plate added which must be attached to metal. Tsunami decoders have great engine sounds but to me they are let down by rather poor, 'flat' horn sounds.
My first choice now is the Loksound L.

hope this helps.

Scott Kay,

Thank you many times for the valuable information,it is priceless. I'm afraid the installation is where I'm lost,as at best,all I've ever done is block wire in my HO days.

I suppose like block wiring,it's just a "hands on" process that has to be tackled & done several times. I'm in an O Scale Desert in my area,so there's no one to help me in my area for lack of O Scale modelers,though I can't think it's that much different from HO?

 

Thanks again!

Al Hummel

Al, If you were installing decoders in HO, plug and play or even hard wired, you'll have relatively little issues in O Scale.  In fact, I think you'll find it's easier in O Scale.

 

With the decoders available today, screw terminals, etc.. less soldering is required, even easier to get a locomotive converted to DCC.  Don't be afraid, take your time and I think you'll be surprised at how easy it really is, especially with that Atlas GP15.  Did your GP15 come with any wiring harnesses ?  Often DCC ready Atlas locomotives come with 2 wiring harnesses that plug into the Atlas dogbone shaped board that use in their locomotives.  One harness has pickup and motor leads, while the other is primarily for lighting.  Remember at the core all you have to connect are the left and right rail pickup wires and the motor leads to the decoder.  Once you have those you can test your work and proceed from there. 

 

All I'm trying to say if don't be afraid to try an install.  There are numerous threads on this forum and others around which decoders guys are using now for installs, almost cant make a wrong choice, and go for it.

The NCE-025 DCC set can be bought for $137.00 and though it's only a 2 amp system it is a full DCC set. Can read/ write cv's with the PowerCab remote which has a LCD screen. Can always add-on to it with extra boosters etc. Plenty of help with the NCE users group over on Yahoo and/ or a phone call to NCE.

 

http://www.hogtrainz.com/NCE.htm

Mike DeBerg,

Thank you Mike,for the great encouragement. I was all DC in

HO,DCC was barely heard of. I bought a PBL Foreground Sound & Power System which I waited on for 2 years,with a separate radio control. Then DCC began to grow & now it's the future as well as present. Sound was my big issue,thus the PBL system. Now it sits in it's original box,unopened,a $1400 investment that can't be given away now days,as with many of the "in the day" car kits before RTR. Thousands of dollars sitting on shelves.

My gp15 has a green circuit board plus wiring & to me it looks like a plug of some sort,should say plugs-1 is 9 openings the other 4 I believe. I need to take pic's which would help you fellas identify what I'm looking at.

Got to go to hospital to see Brother-In-Law who had triple heart bypass last Friday,who's doing well.

Thanks again,

Al Hummel

Thank you Casey Jones2. Does this unit have separate radio control,nothing teathered? I'd go with the 10amp unit if funds allowed now,but well we all know the end of that story.

Thank you for the info.

Al Hummel

Hi Al,

Yes, O scale DCC is pretty much identical to HO DCC, the two major differences are that O scale uses bigger bus wires under the layout to handle the higher current (you can probably even use the same size feeder wires that run from the bus wire up to the rails as HO gauge – 22 Ga. depending on how frequently you add drops)  and the second difference is O scale decoders are larger, again, to handle the higher the current draw of the larger motors and speakers.  Now, as Mike pointed out in an earlier reply, the larger scale decoders do have some benefits over the HO counterparts, e.g. screw terminals (no soldering on the decoder) and usually more function outputs available to control more things like lights, smoke units, etc. – big bonus for us O scalers there.

 

Below are two web sites that are excellent DCC resources.  The first being a presentation on “O scale DCC” at this year’s O scale West convention – a good general overview of DCC from an O scale prospective and lots of helpful DCC web links near the end of the presentation.   And the second link is to Allan Gartner’s Wiring for DCC site.  Allan’s layout is HO but, again, the principles are the same and his web site is a go-to resource for all things DCC. 

 

http://www.siliconvalleylines..../OSW2015DccIntro.pdf

 

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm

 

Scott Kay

Austin, TX

 

 

 

Al

 

I'm a very pleased owner of an NCE system. One of the very nice things about NCE is that they support upgrades to existing hardware when new features come out.  My system was purchased 15 years ago and has been upgraded twice.  For a modest fee they sent me a new EPROM chip that I installed in the base unit in a matter of minutes. I even retrofitted radio boards to my old wired throttles when they came out around 12 years ago.  If you can swing the cost I'd recommend a 5 amp PowerHouse ProR system.  If there are going to be multiple people in the layout room wireless is the way to go- no cables to get in the way and eliminates the need to install a cab bus/plug in points around the layout. 

 

Ed Rappe