DCS Remote Commander 50-1033 Question.

I used mine on my 12x12 layout with no problems, what transformer are you using?

Clean the front of the handheld so the beam has a clear path to the receiver.

Next, connect the DCSRC in "Passive" mode.  To do that, connect the output of your transformer to the track and the output of the DCSRC to the track.  The transformer power doesn't have to go thru the DCSRC receiver (Passive Mode).

When was the last time batteries were replaced?

Bob,

Be sure that you're pointing the handheld remote at the receiver, not the engine. The system works using infrared IR communication, which is strictly line of sight.

This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

The DCS remote commander does not have as strong a signal, so it is possible the track layout, wiring, or the remote switches are your issue.  I do believe on a previous post a while ago, some one had issues with the a FT switch killing the DCS signal.  Are the switches powered through the track or independently?  G

PUFFRBELLY,

I experienced the exact same problem that you are having.  I have a Fastrack layout with 2 switches that I run under the Christmas tree.  This year I decided to add DCS so I could get better control of my new Christmas GEVO engine.  Just like you I experienced problems.  I set up blocks and ran additional feeders.  I used aux power for the switches rather than use track power.  All to no avail...still had erratic behavior.  I finally broke down and bought a TIU and used one my DCS remotes from my main layout.  What a difference...everything worked perfectly.  I guess you get what you pay for.

I'll probably use the Remote Commander base on my main layout for switched sidings to send a watchdog signal when I apply power to the sidings. 

Hi Everyone,

First, thanks to all of you that responded to my little quandary.  That being said here's what I have done thus far.  I retrieved another MTH SD70ACe Locomotive from my inventory, (go ahead, call me a capitalist) and conducted the usual "Pre-Trip" inspection and lube.  I placed it on the track, powered up and guess what?  Everything functioned as it is supposed to.  Here's the scoop.  The SD70ACe that I am currently running is the most current model (30-4231-1E) whereas the SD70ACe that I was having issues with is a NOS (New Old Stock) purchased from a reputable vendor late last year, (30-4205-1E) and is an earlier production.  I think what has happened is the "Problematic" SD may have lost its factory settings (I have no idea how this may have happened) and may need a "Factory Default Reset".  Anyone care to comment on this assumption?   Again, thank you all.  I will try to respond to each comment individually later today.

Chief Bob (Retired)

Bob,

You stated:

Sometime the bell will work and sometime it won't.  Same with the horn, direction and "cab chatter" buttons. 

In that case, you are mistaken. Your engine has not "lost its factory settings". If it had, nothing would have worked at all.

Just to add a little more info on my situation....

Since the Christmas GEVO was brand new, when I had problems with it and the Remote Commander, I thought it might be the engine.  I took it to my main layout (with DCS TIU) and tested every feature I could think of.  It performed flawlessly.  I brought the engine back to the Christmas layout, and I continued to have the same problems.  So, I don't believe the engine was the problem.

Hi Barry,

I know you are “Da Man” when it involves this DCS Stuff so I’m glad that you chimed in.  Well here’s one for you.  I have a newer MTH SD70AEc that I tried on the SAME layout with the SAME DCSIR Commander Throttle including the Remote and it preformed perfectly.  Put the problematic SD70Ace locomotive, (an older version of the same locomotive) back on the track, hit the start-up button on the remote and she started right up, however, NO other function on the remote worked, even the “SU/SD” button would not shut-down the locomotive.  What do you make of that scenario?

Thanks,

Chief Bob

Bob,

 What do you make of that scenario?

It sounds like an engine issue.

Kinda Like F-U-B-A-R, take it to the MTH Doctor engine issue?  I really appreciate your time and attention in this matter.  I'm all set to go to York this April and perhaps I may shake your hand and thank you in person.  And get a signed copy of your book!

For the older engine that doesn't work well, are the wheels and pick ups cleaned well?  Inspect the power wires from the pickup rollers going to the 7 pin connector. Make sure not damaged.   G

The "Older" engine worked Great for a while and then it started to Act-Up.  The locomotive isn't old in the "run-time" sense.  It was Brand New (New Old Stock) that I purchased form a reputable Internet Vendor in January of this year.  So, dirty wheels shouldn't be an issue.  Loose wires, maybe.  However, since it was purchased new, I would prefer having a MTH Technician check it out rather than doing it myself.

Thanks ,

Chief Bob (Retired)

Well, I am one if you don't have one locally.  G

I'm not familiar with FT switches, but in doing a web search I found the following under-belly image of the electronics on what is supposedly an FT switch.  The circuit board shows a half-dozen or so capacitors...which are known to "kill" the DCS signal.  Adding a 50 cent 22uH inductor (choke) in line with the power feeding this circuit board might be worthwhile.

While the old engine might have a separate problem with receiving the DCSRC signal, I think the FT switch electronics might be something to look at too.

I'd definitely send it to GGG for a look if you can't find a local MTH tech.

If you're powering the switches off the track power, you can just replace the track power jumper with a 22uh choke and solve any DCS signal interference issue.  That actually had a very positive effect with my command switches running on track power.

If removing power from the FT switches is as "simple" as removing a jumper, how about this simple experiment.  Remove the jumper(s) from your FT switch(s).  Obviously the switches will no longer switch electronically but it would be interesting to see if you can now reliably or at least more reliably command your old SD70.  If reliability improves, then definitely get some 22uH chokes and install as GRJ notes.  Just an idea...

Look under the switch Stan, it really is as simple as removing the jumper.  You can jumper them for track power or leave the jumper out and connect aux power.  There's a jumper between Track Power and AUX IN to use track power.

John,

I have over twenty FT switches in my layout and erratic DCS performance.  TMCC is flawless.  Was wondering if the this choke may be what I need to do to improve DCS communications through out my layout.  Where do you put it exactly.  My switches are all powered through aux power and controlled with an AIU.

Cheryl,

My switches are all powered through aux power and controlled with an AIU.

In that case, it's extremely unlikely that the FT switch tracks are affecting the DCS signal.

Barry is, of course, right in this case.  If you're already using aux power, you have isolated the switch electronics from the tracks.