Dcs what do I need

Liam,

 What else do I need to get it going?

You need "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site! Click on the link below to go to MTH's web page for the book!

The Z500 may run your setup but you are on the edge and may have strange problems. If the Z500 comes with the set you get keep it to run the TIU and buy a Z1000 transformer brick in addition to run the train. If you have the money, forget the Z1000 and go for the Z4000 from the start but you will not need that much power for a while.

Al

What about a postwar ZW? Do those work well if so can it power all 4 channels fixed and variable? Thanks 

It will if it's on the list of approved power supplies found in the back of any MTH owners manual. 

I generally run off a Z750 or 1000 transformer supply via Direct connection adapter to the TIU. The fixed voltage is good for DCS work.

I do run some proto sound 1 engines with a throttle (Z500) that has it's own lock on to the track.

Eventually I will sell the Proto 1 engines and move up to Proto 2 to better be able to manage the railroad without having to switch power packs.

Finally, I recommend a Z4000. It is purpose built to match the TIU etc.

I have not tried to run TMCC engines yet with DCS, the option is present in the remote.

Barry's book in softcover is the single best item for you to learn. Just keep in mind again Proto One engines are obselete and it's best to run Proto 2 and 3 engines. You can connect Lionel etc to it.

Good luck!

Hi Liam,

A post war ZW will work fine as long as you add fast acting circuit protection (fuses or breakers).  The old bi-metal breakers are too slow to properly protect modern electronics.  It can easily power one channel or all four.

Dave Hikel brought up a interesting point.

The Power supplies do have a breaker on the side that is pretty fast. If not quite faster than that which protects the Outlet (GFCI)

I have yet to decide if I wish to install power breakers to the buses under the layout. I would not want a fat short to fry everything.

Where can I get the breakers? If a fuse what kind should I use?   I think I have decided on a zw because those are the king of post war transforers and I always liked the look of them. I see Trainz fully refurbishes them and adds new cords and components if needed.  I also checked and mth manual and it said it was fine.

Thanks 

Liam, here's my article on resettable circuit protection that may have helpful info.

http://www.slsprr.net/technical/CircProt.htm

hmm 6 helpful replies and one advertisement

As for what you need, is there an LHS in your area? You might want to see if they have DCS set up, sometimes it's easier to see the components working together than read about then in a catalog, helps get the big picture

Chris,

hmm 6 helpful replies and one advertisement

One could argue (with your input, no less) that the "advertisement" was the best suggestion of all.

My LHS is terrible and they wont even talk to anyone and sell Lionel over retail! My other LHS the trading post is a great store everything I could wish for except not much or at all MTH there. It is a great place for Lionel repairs and sales though, Barry I did not consider it an advertisement I think it is very helpful and I will order it once I get my first mth set. Right now I am selling a lot of Lionel stuff that is pristine that will fund my journey into the mth world although I still have 25 traditional lionel and other locos   Here is a link to anyone who wants some http://www.ebay.com/sch/liam98...rksid=p3686 All of it is in super condition. I have another ps2 question. Out of the box do you have to charge the battery if it is a 2010 or 2009 set if so how long and does the set include the charger?

Dave Hikel is correct:  the postwar ZW is superb for running DCS---not quite as good as a modern Z40000 due to the latter's internal breakers, but fine.  I use 2 of them.  As fo breakers, google marine circuit breakers.  West Marine, who is not the cheapest has some reasonably priced.  See also Defender Marine: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|296553|299262|1311366&id=1308063.  For $5.79, they have push button breakers in 3, 7, 10, 15, 20, & larger.  I've been using these.

Liam,

Out of the box do you have to charge the battery if it is a 2010 or 2009 set if so how long and does the set include the charger?

Typically, yes.

A first charge should be long enough so that when the engine is started up making sounds and track power is turned off, sounds persist for at least 6-7 seconds. This can take 8-12 hours for a completely dead battery.

Somehow, when I open that box with a shiny new loco, I can't bear to leave it hooked up to a charger.  I plop it onto the track. add it to the remote, & run.  By the time I'm finished playing, it's probably got an hour or so on it, so there's enough power to save settings on shut down.

Wholeheartedly agree on the Z-4000!

Jim Barrett suggested that to me and it was/is the right choice. Dave G.

dgauss, you're right that the Z4000 is as good as you can get.  But, if you already have a postwar ZW, you don't need it.  It is a tad expensive.  On the other hand, I'd be wary of going looking for a ZW, unless you can open it up & check the rollers and windings.