Debating on switching to 2-Rail

Suggest that you (1) get a copy of "Guide To Modern O Scale – 2nd Ed." and (2) go visit a goodly number of 2-rail layouts, get a good feel for what you are seeing, ask lots of questions, and gather as much information about you as possible before jumping into the deep end.

With 2 rail and a plan for switching, you probably want to go with larger number switches.   In 2 rail a #6 is about equal to 9 degrees from straight.   These are most reliable and are somewhat equivalent to a 72 inch radius.   But 2 rail switches are not curves, the track is straight through the frog.   

 

I would recommend as long a length as you can.   Maybe use the 24 foot leg plus an L off of it.

 

I would also recommend:

1.   An interchange track or staging track to connect to the outside world.   This is where cars come and go (in your imagination) off your layout.   This could be more than one track, and should have enough capacity to hold as many cars as the industry tracks on the layout hold if possible.   It could be 2 interchanges, one at each end.   This means a session would be pulling all the cars off the interchange/s and swapping them for cars in the industries.

2.   The #6 switches.

3.   A run around track or basically a passing siding, to allow you to work both facing and trailing point sidings.   This should be long enough for 2-4 cars plus your locomotive and a caboose if you plan to use one.

4.   Industries with both trailing and facing point sidings to require the use of the run around mentioned.

5.   consider your era.   Earlier era 40ft cars take less space.   And more industries such as lumber yards and coal dealers used rail service up through the 50s and into the 60s.    This means you could get as modern as second generation diesels (gp30, 35 etc) and still use mostly 40 ft cars.   

 

An area that had industrial spots on multiple sidings for 20 or so cars would probably require an operating session of well over an hour, maybe 2 to do all the switching moves needed.

 

I switched in 2012 with no regrets.

Go to Lance Mindheim's website and study the layouts, especially his small switching layout, the East Rail layout. Read everything you can on the site and you'll have a good understanding of 2-R track planning and layout concept.

 

Jeff C

i agree with MWB get the O scale guide its well worth the price of admission; it will answer most of the questions you have. next go to o scale resource excellent information there as well.

i started in 3 rail went to 2 rail then because of a smaller home with no basement started buying 3 rail scale but looking at the tight radius large flanges and the center rail and the purchase of a larger home went back to 2 rail and selling off the 3 rail. once you start in 2 rail the track makes so much difference.

you won't regret the switch to 2 rail.

I started out in 2 rail way back when then switched to 3 rail.  Now, I'm switching back to 2 rail where I should have stayed in the first place.

 

Rick

I would get one of those Atlas SW switchers or a Williams 0-6-0 in 2-rail, a pair of box cars, and a caboose, two lengths of flex track, and a switch, and just try it out.  Minimal cost, and if you find yourself missing the elegant looks of that center rail, you can probably recover your investment.  If you like 2-rail, then you can add more!  Your Lionel power pack can be used with a simple bridge rectifier and a DPDT switch.

On3 two rail !

The die is cast . . . . . 

I kinda stepped into No Man's Land. I'm trying to relocate and honestly don't know if the layout I build will be 2-rail, 3-rail or hybrid. I buy MTH scale-wheeled locomotives almost exclusively and have run them both ways (I'm still part of a 3-rail club). I only buy 2-rail rolling stock now (and converting select 3-rail rolling stock I already had), which is making the transition easier.

 

My advice would be to look at where you want to be long term and proceed slowly and deliberately, gathering as much information as you can and maybe start by acquiring some rolling stock and/or converting some you don't use much. The 2-rail side of the house has been very helpful (and tolerant of my ignorance on some matters) and they'll be very helpful.

Bruce,This is just my personal observation,but O Scale is tailored to 3 rail. Engines come to mind 1st. I can find so many diesels in 3 rail that aren't there in 2 rail.Changing freight cars over to 2 rail vs 3 rail is usually not too hard,but definitely costly.The realism of 2 rail can't be beat that's why I finally switched to 2 rail after investing in 3 rail rolling stock that will be sold as I don't want to "hack it up," converting over to 2 rail. The 1 item that comes to mind is a Lionel I-12 Wagon top Baywindow Caboose. It's a beautiful car,but the lighting is tailored to 3 rail & the trucks & lighting would have to be changed over to 2 rail. I'm reasonably sure it can be done,but Lionel Equipment isn't easily changed over to 2 rail.I LOVE the size of O Scale,but my financial condition has changed dramatically having to put 10 grand into medical expenses that was unforeseen when I started getting ready to switch from HO to O,so I'm leaving O Scale staying with my HO as everything in rolling stock & diesels are waiting for me to build benchwork for them. Finances rule in this decision.Hope this helps,don't mean to be discouraging.Enjoy 2 rail & railroading 1st.Alan Hummel

On Sunday, January 4, 2015 8:35 PM, O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:


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| Subject: Debating on switching to 2-Rail By: bag09 In: Train Forums / 2-Rail SCALE | |

Hello,      After several years running/collecting Postwar and Prewar trains I'm debating about switching to 2-Rail. Not getting rid of what I already have but going in a different direction. I was thinking about a switching layout. Have plenty of room for a basement layout. Thinking about going with a 24' x 3' switching layout or a L shaped 17' x 12'. Looking for advice on where to start plus any ideas on a layout plan. Just remember I am only use to three rail so some of your terminology may seem like a foreign language to me. Thanks. Bruce   View This Topic
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I'm in a similar situation and there's some good advice posted here already.

 

I have a 3RS layout that is 100% track work completed and 75% sceniced (at just 2 years old).  I am reluctant to destroy it, and furthermore, my grandkids love it - so it has to stay.  Or, at least part of it.  I've played with the track plan and am going to operate both 2R and 3RS on the same 24'x28' layout. Will leave a loop on the outside and start the 2R on the inner portion.

 

As the grandkids age out of the 3R equipment, I'll eventually convert all over to 2R.

 

The first plan below is a DRAFT of the 2R primarily switching layout, with a loop (it's not connected int his plan).  The last plan is my current 3RS.  The middle is how I plan to remove some of the 3RS track to allow room for the 2R.  Will be a work in progress over the next year.

 

The 3RS was built with #6 and #8 switches (exception is the yard) with O96 curves.  The 2R plan is for #8's (maybe #10's) and 54" minimum radius.  I plan to model transition era, but I know that some long psgr cars will creep in; steam will be kept small.

 

I second the suggestion to review Lance Mindheim's work - he also has a couple of good books on shelf layout design and operations.  I know my layout is not truly a shelf, but it will essentially act like one - may have one remotely controlled turnout (as well as the turntable <g>.

 

 

Lots of people think 2 rail is scary and expensive, my experience has been over 18 years after switching from HO very different. O scale needs more space, so you need less equipment.

 

The reality of modeling trains of size, girth and click it t clack is what got me.

 

Quality over Quantity,

 

ncng

There are a lot of myths that are perpetuated about 2-rail O scale, and you managed to nail 2.

Gregg Laiben:

 

You and I are interested in very similar themes.  Here's a link to an old (now locked) thread in the S scale forum of my theme, you'll find/see some familiar road names therein!

 

I'm migrating to HO, so the S scale layout is no more, but the HO will still use the same theme.

 

Hopefully this link works...

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...t-bottoms-in-s-scale

 

I switched from 3-rail to 2-rail in my 40s after accumulating a vast train collection.  Made up my mind 100% and proceeded slowly, but insistently.  The change was completed after about 2 years with a nice scale layout in my basement to boot!  All I have left is my undying love for Lionel post war steam, which I continue to collect and run on the carpet or out on my deck from time to time. 

Do it.  You'll be so glad you did!

Thanks for everyone's input. Can anyone give some advice on a good width for a switching layout? I was thinking maybe 30 inches wide. How about track and switches? I see Atlas has both. Thanks.

I much prefer Micro Engineering code 125; you will need turnouts from BKO and Peco 711-FB to pin the track together.   I will warn you: it is work but looks great!

http://www.troutcreekeng.com/bko.html

 

http://www.microengineering.com/products_ta.htm

Bag09:  After you switch to 2-rail, in a short while you will realize there really isn't any such thing as '3-rail scale.'

 

 

Gregg:

 

The S scale S-2 has been sold several months ago. I'm still in the process of selling off my S scale. I have gone back to HO. I now have two HO Atlas Gold Master series S-2's to become KCT engines, circa early 60s, and am likely going to pick up an Atlas HO Gold Master series Alco HH to also become KCT.

 

The current layout in that locked thread (mainly bench work and backdrops) is getting ready to be dismantled. I have made the decision to construct a 16' x 20' out-building to house my hobbies. Therein will go my workbench for my control line airplanes, some power tools, a new around the walls HO layout still based on the same KC Lines theme, storage shelves/bins for hobby supplies under the layout (around the walls), store the control line airplanes, et al.  I will then reclaim this cram-packed small room that has to accommodate all of the above to return to simply become a computer/library room, and possibly a small roll top work bench for HO modeling.

 

The KCT pic you posted: Is that your view from where you work, or a picture of your layout???

 

Have you consider hand laying track? It's not for everyone, but it can be great for customizing depending on our space. For hand laid switches you can use Lou Cross' Right O Way castings, they work and look great. You may also use fastracks (handlaidtrack.com) jigs and parts.

 

Check this thread for reference:

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...aylew-cross-turnouts

 

This was my first hand laid switch, all build from right o way parts.