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In a previous post I reported that my new Rail King EP5 locomotive was derailing on the Real Trax switches throughout my layout.  After watching the EP5 crawl through the switches, I discovered that the lead wheel jumps to the wrong side of the switch frog because the guard rail is ineffective.

 

As shown in the sketch, the fix is simple and I am reworking all of the 14 switches on my layout. The solution is to reduce the space between the guard rail and the curved main rail. Although my issue is with Real Trax, it's very likely this problem exists in other brands of track. This situation highlights the need for 3-rail O-gauge standards that are tried and true.

 

Switch Guard Rail Mod

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  • Switch Guard Rail Mod
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When I was learning to make my own turnouts . I was talking to a guy that had made hundreds of them in HO. He said more than half the time that a problem on one side of a switch will show itself on the other side of the switch. Which is exactly what happened to you.
It's a given the 3 rail trackage has a heck of a lot of slop but those guard rails do serve a purpose .
A word of caution don't reduce the width between the stock rail and the guard rail to less than 1/4 inch or you may have your wheel climbing up on the stock rail.

I use a spare wheel set and lightly push it thru the switch . It lets me see and feel exactly whats going on.

David

What is missing in our hobby are published standards.  For real trains we all know that the track gauge is 4' 8 1/2".  But there is more important information used to keep things on the track.  In a wheel shop eveything is focused on the back to back dimension.  This is the distance between the inside of the wheels.  That dimension is typically 53 3/16".  This is the dimension that interfaces with guard rails and gets the cars thorugh the turnouts without derailing. The clearance between the running rail and guard rail should be 1 7/8".  So the gauge between the working face of the gurad rail and the point of the frog would be 4' 6 5/8".

 

In this case the gurad rail was shimmed to keep the flange from climbing the point of the frog.  But was this really the problem?  The problem could just as easly been that the pilot truck wheel set was not the proper gauge.

 

I sure hope the manufactures of this equipment have standards and they are all using the same standards.  I wish they would share the standards with us.

Originally Posted by David Johnston:

What is missing in our hobby are published standards.  For real trains we all know that the track gauge is 4' 8 1/2".  But there is more important information used to keep things on the track.  In a wheel shop eveything is focused on the back to back dimension.  This is the distance between the inside of the wheels.  That dimension is typically 53 3/16".  This is the dimension that interfaces with guard rails and gets the cars thorugh the turnouts without derailing. The clearance between the running rail and guard rail should be 1 7/8".  So the gauge between the working face of the gurad rail and the point of the frog would be 4' 6 5/8".

 

In this case the gurad rail was shimmed to keep the flange from climbing the point of the frog.  But was this really the problem?  The problem could just as easly been that the pilot truck wheel set was not the proper gauge.

 

I sure hope the manufactures of this equipment have standards and they are all using the same standards.  I wish they would share the standards with us.

O scale 3 rail is the only one that doesn't use a strict set of standards .I guess thats a left over form their pre war roots . In the other scales if you put a NMRA track gauge on the wheel sets, the track or the switches they are going to be the same doesn't matter who made it,it will be the same. In 3 rail you have 5 or 6 making track and all of them will run the trains but all are slightly off from one another. Why?
Same reason we have 2 command systems and they're so far into it there's no turning back.

David

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