Electro coupler melting

Ok first quest is what’s the Exact Model number of the model ?

im thinking it should be 6-11207 but needs confirmed.

while we wait for that one other thing you can check. Leave power off to the track but power up the cab-1L and watch the Red light on the base and press the “R” for the rear coupler and release

if the red light continues to blink after you let go then the button is sticking on the remote if not then we know it’s in the tender but won’t be able to speculate what went wrong there until we confirm a model number  

@JackBricker posted:

Has anybody encountered this at all?  I already ordered another coupler but I want to make sure that will fix the issue.  

That will NOT fix this issue!  You need to closely examine the wiring for the coupler to start.  It could be the engine sending continuous coupler commands or a malfunction in the tender.  Usually what I do to isolate something like this is swap tenders.  If it follows the tender, that's where I look.  If a different tender has the same issue with that engine, the engine is the problem.

If the CAB1L button is sticking, you'd hear continuous uncoupling sounds and the coupler would pulse at about a 1 second cadence.  I did that for ten seconds, and I didn't heat up the coupler much, so I think it's something in the engine or tender.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

That will NOT fix this issue!  You need to closely examine the wiring for the coupler to start.  It could be the engine sending continuous coupler commands or a malfunction in the tender.  Usually what I do to isolate something like this is swap tenders.  If it follows the tender, that's where I look.  If a different tender has the same issue with that engine, the engine is the problem.

If the CAB1L button is sticking, you'd hear continuous uncoupling sounds and the coupler would pulse at about a 1 second cadence.  I did that for ten seconds, and I didn't heat up the coupler much, so I think it's something in the engine or tender.

Interesting.  I have used that same remote with all of my other engines with no issues.  Stupid question.  Do I have to use a T1 tender or will any legacy engine tender work?  And to confirm 6-11207 is the item number.  

Any legacy tender will work, even if the drawbar won't actually go in the slot.  Just line up the sensors 1/2" apart and test.  If the remote uncoupling works with other engines, obviously it's not the remote or the command base.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Any legacy tender will work, even if the drawbar won't actually go in the slot.  Just line up the sensors 1/2" apart and test.  If the remote uncoupling works with other engines, obviously it's not the remote or the command base.

I will admit I don’t really have a tender to spare.  I did see that the motherboard for the loco is in the tender according to Lionel’s parts breakdown on their support page.  Would that limit the issue to the tender then.  

Im assuming of course that the control and power for the coupler would be between the motherboard and the coupler.  

John I kinda thought that if the locomotive was getting continues commands it would pulse but couldn't confirm that today,

I think the most likely the problem is in the tender were just trying to cover all possible causes so your not buying a $100 PCB you don't need.

You might try firing the coupler then when it sticks pull the tender away or block the IR sensor from the locomotive, that will ensure that if it is still going it's in the tender. Hopefully John will pop back in and should know what board handles the rear coupler on RS 6.

@zhubl posted:

John I kinda thought that if the locomotive was getting continues commands it would pulse but couldn't confirm that today,

I think the most likely the problem is in the tender were just trying to cover all possible causes so your not buying a $100 PCB you don't need.

You might try firing the coupler then when it sticks pull the tender away or block the IR sensor from the locomotive, that will ensure that if it is still going it's in the tender. Hopefully John will pop back in and should know what board handles the rear coupler on RS 5.5.

Thank you I appreciate that.  I’ll try your suggestion tonight or tomorrow as time permits.  The rest of the loco runs fine but I want it to be fully functional.  I was hoping it was some kind of old production issue that’s easily fixed but it seems more complex then that.  Really glad I asked on this forum.

I'd be very closely examining the wiring, but failing that, it's likely the RailSounds 6 board as that's the one that handles the coupler.  I like the idea of separating the tender from the locomotive, an easier way is to just stick a piece of cardboard between the sensors to accomplish the same effect.

I had this issue with a new 1922010 - *SHERMAN HILL BIG BOY SET I bought from Charlesro. I sent the engine & tinder back and they sent me a new one.