Have a K-line Remote EP5 engine that I want to change motors to run Conventional. Have removed all remote parts. Motors are intact. What do I need to hook up to motors to run AC not DC ?
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bridge rectifiers
Thanks
A bridge rectifier is necessary for AC operation, and if wired properly will allow you to reverse the loco's direction with a toggle switch on the loco.
For improved slow-speed operation, you should consider rewiring the dual motors in series. There are many posts about this if you search on the Forum.
If you desire typical Forward-Neutral-Reverse operation from the transformer's circuit breaker, you'll need an E-unit. Dallee Electronics makes one, I think it costs about $50. You might be able to find a cheaper one among Lionel's replacement parts, but you'll need something that can handle 2-4 amps IMO. Along with improved slow speed operation, wiring the motors in series will lower the current draw. My $.02
if the motors are dc can motors in your engine the simplest way would be to use a full wave bridge rectifier and use a double pole double throw switch so you can reverse the dc polarity, and you would throw the switch one way for forward and the opposite way for reverse ! that would be the cheapest way to go. any module like Dallee Electronics makes one, I think it costs about $40.00 plus shipping! this costs more money a switch is very cheap maybe a buck on ebay and a full wave bridge rectifier would be around a buck also! using the toggle switch method depending what kin of switch use might have a center off position for neutral!
Alan Mancus posted:if the motors are dc can motors in your engine the simplest way would be to use a full wave bridge rectifier and use a double pole double throw switch so you can reverse the dc polarity, and you would throw the switch one way for forward and the opposite way for reverse ! that would be the cheapest way to go. any module like Dallee Electronics makes one, I think it costs about $40.00 plus shipping! this costs more money a switch is very cheap maybe a buck on ebay and a full wave bridge rectifier would be around a buck also! using the toggle switch method depending what kin of switch use might have a center off position for neutral!
To be clear with this method the switch would have to be in the engine between the bridge and the motor(s), not at the transformer.
Besides Dallee you can get E units from Williams and Lionel not mention a Post war E unit could also be used. You lose a lot of play value with an an engine you have to stop and move a switch rather than changing direction with the transformer, which an E unit would allow.
Pete
I agree with you but he asked for the cheapest method? a Dallee is 40 to 50 bucks with postage n tax!
actually To be clear with this method the switch would have to be in the engine between the bridge and the motor(s), not at the transformer!!!
This is not true you could use a reverse switch at the dc output of the transformer as long as the transformer puts out DC!
You are suggesting he turned his whole layout into DC power. Think about it. Would you do that?
A cheap source of E Units are from folks who do TMCC upgrades. They usually have buckets full. Many would probably ship you one for the cost of postage.
Pete
I have a diagram showing how to reverse dc with and e unit. The old type e unit.
Don’t they automatically run in Conventional when there’s no TMCC signal present?
Jon 
KOOLjock1 posted:Don’t they automatically run in Conventional when there’s no TMCC signal present?
Jon
I believe you are correct. All that would need to be done is unplug the TMCC base, either from the wall outlet or from the track.
I'm going to guess that the original poster's TMCC board set failed, thus limiting or preventing operation in all modes. Instead of repairing or upgrading, he wants to gut the unit and take it back to basic, reliable operation.
Ed, was there something wrong with the boards on your engine? It would just make your intentions a little clearer.
Norton posted:a Post war E unit could also be used...
Yes, like THIS.
Yap
Ted S posted:I'm going to guess that the original poster's TMCC board set failed, thus limiting or preventing operation in all modes. Instead of repairing or upgrading, he wants to gut the unit and take it back to basic, reliable operation.
That's how I read it; in which case, for (m/l) 50 bucks and a little time, Dallee is the way to go. Heck, if I can do it (and I did) anybody can! 
Mark in Oregon
