ENGINE OUT OF RANGE

Try it in conventional with no DCS signal.

If it does anything, then try and reset it.

It maybe scrambled or more likely, something fried? You may have melted some power wires?

Watch for the power (amp) draw to stay low.

I agree with Joe.

Ok Joe, so do I have to switch my track power fixed?

@mike g. posted:

Ok Joe, so do I have to switch my track power fixed?

??

I don't know how you're wired here. You either run jumpers to a spare piece of track from a transformer, or shut off the DCS signal to the rails.

You may have the ability to shut off the signal if you're wired to say fixed #2 on a loop. Killing the power to fixed #1 and the aux in power, would do it.

I have a spare Z1000 on my bench that I wire direct to an engine when needed for a test.

Using your Z4000 handle you'd power up directly and then do the reset if it starts.

As mentioned Mike, first check if it runs conventionally. I don't think MTH ever really made those responses better/more accurate for the DCS remote when they decided to go wi-fi.

you may have damaged the engine electrically from the breaker trip ps3 and ps 2 engine boards do NOT LIKE SHORTS the shorts send high voltage transients that can damage the tiu and engine boards easily! you might have an mth asc test your engine! Sometimes you can do a conventional reset with z4000 that may or may not correct the problem but it's something t try!

Alan

Thanks guys, I haven't got out to the train room yet today but am working at it. If I have to have a MTH Tech check it out I will have to send it out as I dont know of any near me here in Washington State.

Ok guys, I hope you have some other ideas for me. I disconnected everything from my Z4000, fallowed the reset directions on line, the numbers went up to 18, but never heard any noise. no clinks clanks  horns nothing!

Is there anything else I can check? I am open to phones calls also! LOL

Hey @mike g. I have had a similar problem with my MTH engines where they short and then stop responding to my remote system. Here is what I have done in the past that has worked. Not sure if it will work for you. 1 - Remove engine from track. 2 - Delete engine from DCS remote 3- Place engine back on track (with no other MTH or Lionel engines on track) 4 - Add engine back into remote. If adding the engine to the DCS remote is successful, you should be back up and running. If not, I have to agree with the folks here that something may have been damaged when the engine shorted out. Also note - if you already factory reset the engine than you have likely performed my steps as the Factory Reset deletes the engine from the remote.

@Chris1985 posted:

Hey @mike g. I have had a similar problem with my MTH engines where they short and then stop responding to my remote system. Here is what I have done in the past that has worked. Not sure if it will work for you. 1 - Remove engine from track. 2 - Delete engine from DCS remote 3- Place engine back on track (with no other MTH or Lionel engines on track) 4 - Add engine back into remote. If adding the engine to the DCS remote is successful, you should be back up and running. If not, I have to agree with the folks here that something may have been damaged when the engine shorted out.

Thanks Chris, I will give it a shot! Right now it seams as if I have nothing to lose! I will have to hook things back up to my TIU. But I would have to anyways!

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

Good plan, Chris!  I have read before someone suggesting that method.

Not good. If it doesn't do anything, something's wrong inside. Did the amp draw go up?

You would have to go inside or send it to someone.

Well I did what Chris suggested and nothing! I don't know where to look here in Washington for a MTH Tech. I would open it up, but dont know what I might be looking for except maybe a burnt board.

But then again I am open to all ideas! LOL

Just talked to a service Tech, and he stated that because I split a switch with one end of the engine on one track and the other on a different  track that maybe I might have pulled a wire lose from one or both of the trucks. There were no shorts and none of my in line breakers popped so tomorrow I plan on taking the shell off and having a look! Wish me luck! LOL

nothing to be afraid of in this one. Just double check as you put the shell back on, that no wires get pinched.

Agree with Engineer Joe. Sorry my advice didn’t help! This is definitely a hobby that requires an insane amount of tinkering and troubleshooting...

Mike,

Not sure about the clinks and clanks reset, never attempted that. It did not operate conventionally with the Z4000 hooked to the track bypassing the TIU? Did anything light up?

Hi Bobby, nothing happened.

When you get the shell off, see if you can trace power from the pickup wire to the board. If not, you may have pulled wires apart.

I hope it is a wire pulled off, Mike!  If not, I think you are going to have to ship it out.  I had to ship one out before, the guy here in Pennsylvania (not a Forum member to my knowledge) had a fast turnaround, once he got the parts he needed from MTH.  That is the issue if you service technician doesn't have them on hand.  I know guys like GunrunnerJohn and GGG George keep parts on hand, but you can't have everything on hand.

Mike, you can remove the PS-3 board and send to a tech to test.  There are some faults repairable on the PS-3 diesel board.  There are no clinks and clanks on PS-2 or 3.  No hi current draw indicates the board is non responsive and doesn't have a major fault.

No sure how the tech thinks you pulled wires out because the truck turned different way  G

George, Does Mike need to use a grounded wrist band and static bag for pulling and packing the board?

Hi George, is there any thing I can check before sending the board out? I checked and I am getting power from the rail to the screw that holds the wires on top of the truck?

If not can you give me an idea what the cost could be and send me an email with your address?

What happened is I was backing the train up in the photo below and the back truck stayed to the right and the front truck went on to the track to the left. No short indicators went off and none of my inline breakers popped.

Any help would be great!

@Mark Boyce posted:

George, Dyes Mike need to use a grounded wrist band and static bag for pulling and packing the board?

Thanks for thinking about me Mark, I would have never asked that question.

For Mike and others reading, I would suggest putting at least a fuse inline after the Z4000 for events like this. You can't possibly react anywhere as fast as needed. It may or may not have saved this engine? It wouldn't hurt! It would save equipment that bridges the rails in derail events.

I just have an auto blade type fuse before every TIU channel on mine. Cheap insurance that will pop before you can think that fast. The Lionel 180w bricks will also pop even before the fuse does. The Z4000 that I have, doesn't react as fast.

Thanks Joe, what size fuse do you use? I have 10 Amp breakers inline between my Z4000 and TIU.

I use 10 amp auto blade fuses.

If your breaker didn't trip, you may have the wrong ones? You should test them before you have another derail.

Great idea!

So I pulled the board in my engine and sending it off to George. Nothing else goes on the tracks till I am sure I have done what I can to make sure this doesn't happen again!

The breakers on the Z-4000 handles are 12 amp . I use the remote receiver than plugs into the side of the Z-4000 and it shuts down the voltage between 9 and 10 volts by just dropping down the volts to zero. One little spark and it drops out the voltage. You can bring the power back up using the remote. I used this system before DCS came out and it ran my PS1 and Post War trains GREAT!

P.S. Mike,

The feature 18 with the Clinks and Clanks reset is for PS1.  I was going to suggest a recover engine, but if it doesn't work in conventional, don't take the trouble.

@Joe Allen posted:

The breakers on the Z-4000 handles are 12 amp . I use the remote receiver than plugs into the side of the Z-4000 and it shuts down the voltage between 9 and 10 volts by just dropping down the volts to zero. One little spark and it drops out the voltage. You can bring the power back up using the remote. I used this system before DCS came out and it ran my PS1 and Post War trains GREAT!

P.S. Mike,

The feature 18 with the Clinks and Clanks reset is for PS1.  I was going to suggest a recover engine, but if it doesn't work in conventional, don't take the trouble.

Hi Joe, I have the remote receiver also. Maybe I am just don't have it set up right.

Mike,

When set up right you use the DCS remote or the Z-4000 remote to set the voltage. You leave the handles in the off position on the Z-4000 transformer.

Would it be ok to call you or me call you, maybe you can help me makes sure everything is set up correctly. If so I will PM you or you can PM me.

Sure Mike, My e-mail is in my profile. send me your number

Hi Joe, I sent you a private message. I will look for you tomorrow.