EP-5 parts question

New worm wheels are available and easy to replace. P/N 2328-82.

Thanks Chuck!!
Do I need a gear puller and press to do this? (I have a makeshift press I use on small gears).
I already fixed the issue with the motor mount, which kept it running in one direction at least and the worm gear is in great shape since it's made out of a harder metal than the drive gear.

My brother thought it was an e-unit issue as when the gears would jam it would act like it was stuck in neutral. I did too until I had the shell off and saw the e-unit cycling with no problems and If I smacked it, it would start to run, but only would run in one direction, but would move, maybe 1/2" in the other until it jammed. When I get it running, and I'll probably put an ERR sound board, or at least an electronic horn in it because of the abysmal "horn" in the  locomotive

No, no special tools needed. The gear will come of the shaft with a pair of heavy needle nose pliers and a small ball peen hammer. Or to make it even easier, the whole gear shaft assembly is available, and with that it is a simple drop in place. No having to replace gears. I have both or you can get from your local train repair shop or order on line. P/N 2328-78.

@Chuck Sartor posted:

No having to replace gears. I have both or you can get from your local train repair shop or order on line. P/N 2328-78.

Was going to PM you but didn't see that as an option. I saw your aol address starts with denvertrains. Do you live in the Denver area? I live in Castle Rock.

Whether this will help or not, in the Greenberg Modern Era Diagram and Parts List book, the EP-5 Little Joe (conventional with single vertically mounted AC motor) is on pages 78-79. No reference to your individual product number, but I assume this would work, since 1988 is pre-TMCC.

Whether it could be found in the downloadable supplements on the Lionel website, I don't know. The drawings in the book are dated 2/78. There's no supplement number on the illustration other than it states "Section: Loco, D&E."

The power truck illustration and parts breakdown (less motor) are on pages 509-510 of the same book.

Quietman, yes in the Denver metro area. Email in profile. Chuck

@brianel_k-lineguy posted:

The drawings in the book are dated 2/78. There's no supplement number on the illustration other than it states "Section: Loco, D&E."

The power truck illustration and parts breakdown (less motor) are on pages 509-510 of the same book.

Thanks. When you said the drawings were dated 1978, I went to a pdf file I had and found the parts list. The whole truck was listed under the 1970-1986 Diesels pdf, but I found the assembly drawing in the Motors pdf.

The truck and motor for that EP-5 are identical to the ones used in the Postwar version. You can mix and match parts no problem.

I've successfully put MPC EP-5 trucks on a postwar chassis.  No reason why it shouldn't work the other way around. 

Mitch

Update on this. First, thanks for the help everyone.

Replaced the gear today. Thought I'd post a picture of what things looked like.
I didn't know Lionel put glitter in their gear boxes!

I did fix the cause of this while I was at it.

Plus, the horn doesn't work. Hmmmm, I wonder if there might be a tiny problem with the sound board?

Nothing like a leaky capacitor and scorch marks to help you find whats wrong.

Try reversing the leads on your transformer first.  I know it's AC current but for some reason that used to work when I did repairs for a service station years ago.  Those horn sound boards are weak to start with.

The part you circle is a common diode.  Easily replaceable and pretty cheap.  Just make sure the band  on the end of the new one is in the same position as the one currently in place. 

@TedsGG1 posted:

Try reversing the leads on your transformer first.  I know it's AC current but for some reason that used to work when I did repairs for a service station years ago.  Those horn sound boards are weak to start with.

The part you circle is a common diode.  Easily replaceable and pretty cheap.  Just make sure the band  on the end of the new one is in the same position as the one currently in place.

The electrolytic capacitors need replacing too, you can see where at least one leaked out onto the board. That's the issue you can have with a 30+ year old electrolytic cap. Usually, they'll bulge before leaking but not this one (or maybe these ones).

That happening may have taken out a few components, but won't know until I get the parts in. Like diodes, capacitors are cheap too. That will be a temporary fix anyway. Plans are to upgrade it to ERR TMCC and sound in the future. Thankfully, capacitors are cheap too.