ERR AC/DC commander

If you're following the programming instructions to set not only the ID but also the engine type, maybe there's a problem with the R2LC or the Commander board.

@Tom J posted:

Can program to different engine ID and it responds from one to another but does not move in either direction

I have no idea what this means.

I can program the engine as no1 or no31 that part of the program works. I did set the engine type still no motion or lights. The commander I used I bought from Trainz on eBay about a year or more ago came with r4lc board do not know how to troubleshoot or if you could

Hello change Commander to cruise Commander everything works must have been a bad board or r4lc board don't know which one. Changed it all . Are the old the old boards just scrap or can you send them back to e e r for credit? Thank you Gunrunner John

Looking to convert mth's 10 wheeler to cruise Commander as well . Don't know if the smoke unit that is in the locomotive can be adapted to the commander. Or if the lights are LEDs and need to be adapted to the commander as well. The only light on the engine is the front headlight though. Maybe it cab light I could figure that out but the smoke unit is a little bit tougher for me. I included attachment with pictures of the smoke unit I appreciate any help I can get on this thank you. Tom

@Tom J posted:

Hello change Commander to cruise Commander everything works must have been a bad board or r4lc board don't know which one. Changed it all . Are the old the old boards just scrap or can you send them back to e e r for credit? Thank you Gunrunner John

No credit from ERR for old boards.

You can put the suspect R4LC board into that working engine and program it to test it.  If it doesn't run, it's probably a bad R4LC.

Thank you for all your help. When I do something new like this I always doubt myself first but never the product that I installed until I have some kind of confirmation or pointing into the right direction.

As for the MTH 10-wheeler conversion, one issue with TMCC smoke upgrades is you need a chuff switch and a smoke fan controller.  You will also have to change out the two 16 ohm resistors for one 20 to 27 ohm resistor in the smoke unit.

I developed the Chuff-Generator and Super-Chuffer II specifically for upgrading TMCC steamers, and they work really well with the MTH steam.

I was looking at the Super chuffer . Will it work with the existing MTH smoke unit by changing the resistors? I plan on using the cruise Commander along with the rail sound steam board will the Super chuffer be a easy wire in? Thank you

@Tom J posted:

I was looking at the Super chuffer . Will it work with the existing MTH smoke unit by changing the resistors? I plan on using the cruise Commander along with the rail sound steam board will the Super chuffer be a easy wire in? Thank you

Super chuffer only controls the fan. It in and of itself has nothing to do with the resistors.

Yes, if you change the resistor to 20-27 Ohms (total) and then power that off the smoke TRIAC output of the R4LC of the Cruise commander- then that's how the heater power works.

But again, the super chuffer only "powers" and controls the fan- it senses when the smoke resistor has power to turn on the fan (so the fan doesn't run with the smoke off, and does run with the smoke on) but that's sensing a voltage- not providing a regulated voltage.

And yes, very easy to follow the wiring diagrams that specifically show the super chuffer and Cruise commander.

Highly suggest you read this manual https://ogrforum.com/...%20Documentation.pdf

Read the manual seems like it would be not too complicated. Can I purchase the resistors from the same place I buy the super chuffer from. So the board reduces the voltage to 5 volts so the fan motor can run and and c h u f f. All this is new to me I have confidence I could do this but I still will probably need a help along the way I appreciate it very much. I want to thank you guys for helping me online like this. This means a lot to me thank you.

The smoke heater is powered from the smoke output of the Cruise Commander directly.  The resistors I use are the Yageo SQP500JB-20R 5W resistors.  I crack the ceramic shell in a vise and out pops a perfect 20 ohm smoke resistor.

If you read the SuperChuffer II documentation, you'll see that it manages the fan and also gives you some upgraded lighting features.

Ordered the Super chuffer today and the resistors. Swapped the r4lc board out unit still works must be bad Commander. Ordered new Cruise Commander today to replace it going to try to use that in the 10-wheeler when it comes in along with the chuffer thank you for your help

When you crack the resistor ceramic shell in the vise, put it in diagonally compressing it across the corners.  Also, wear safety glasses, pieces of ceramic can fly out at a good clip.

When all of that stuff arrives. Would you mind if I contacted you if I need any help installing it? Or if I run across any problems installing it. This will be one of the most complicated installs that I have tried to date. Real clean 10-wheeler B&O bought it with fried Electronics looks like new. One of the few made of cast that I have found. I was going to use the tether that comes with the motor for going back and forth to the tender. Thank you gun Runner John

Just post here, lots of us will be glad to provide an assist.

Hello I started putting a cruise commander in the 10-wheeler. I change the resistors from the ones that were in there to 20 watt 5 ohm they were ran in parallel. Is that the correct way. The smoke unit was an MTH one. I received the Super chuffer today boy is that thing tiny. Glad it came with the ribbon wire. Well here goes nothing. Thank you

@Tom J posted:

Hello I started putting a cruise commander in the 10-wheeler. I change the resistors from the ones that were in there to 20 watt 5 ohm they were ran in parallel. Is that the correct way. The smoke unit was an MTH one. I received the Super chuffer today boy is that thing tiny. Glad it came with the ribbon wire. Well here goes nothing. Thank you

Yes, factory the MTH  smoke unit had 2each 16 Ohm resistors in parallel for 8 Ohms total load.

No, do not put 2each 20 Ohm resistors in parallel, that's 10 Ohms. I am thinking you made a typo (20 watt 5 ohm)

You only put one 20 Ohm, not 2.

10 Ohm combined load would overheat the smoke TRIAC on the ERR Cruise Commander R4LC board.

I put the single 20 ohm resistor in the holes closest to the stack and cover the other two holes with solder.  Space the resistor about 3/16 from the PCB and make sure there's airflow between the fan chamber and the stack over the resistor.  Also, make sure the resistor is in firm contact with the bottom of the smoke resistor, but not totally covering it.

That kind of makes sense to me I checked it with an ohmmeter and it was 10 I kind of thought I should have to remove one. Was not sure but thank you very much for the confirmation. Easy enough I could just cut one out the holes were already be filled with the solder. Thank you

Well, yes, if you already have two resistors installed.

This engine has a 12 volt light in the boiler. Can I use the cab light feature in the H1 unit to power the light in the boiler for the effect. It's a white light with a red plastic opening in the boiler. Thank you Tom

The cab light of the Super-Chuffer only lights when the locomotive is stopped.

Thank you I could just hardwire it to track voltage in that case

What magic do you use to solder those wires into the chuffer board cleanly? Looks like kind of a challenge.                          Tom

I use a standard Hakko FX-888D soldering station with a needle-point tip, tip temperature 550F.

Just purchased the FX 888 d Hakko did not have a good soldering iron to do this job I was wondering what was used can't wait to give it a try. Thank you for letting me know what type of unit to use on this. The soldering irons that I have are way too big for this kind of job or inaccurate temperature control. Almost done just have to solder the wires into the board and I can finish the job thank you Tom

The iron is a key element in good soldering.

Finished it everything works as it should. Smokes great everything functions on the board . The only problem I'm having is the soundboard as soon as you turn power on it chirps and hisses and does not stop. Checked all the connections made sure everything is connected properly. Still does not sound very well. Or function very well Pretty sure the board is bad will get a hold of sunset models and see if I can send it back for warranty. Other than that nice system.                                                                                       Thank you very much for the help. Tom

Were can you get plastic screws to isolate the tender for the antenna have the plastic washers but the screws I cannot find .

I do like the three volt output for the headlight have to convert the headlight in the locomotive over to LED. But I use 3 volt for almost everything on the layout building lights track lights I just ran a 3 Volt Bus line all the way around under the board and powered it and just tie into it as needed. There's a character on eBay called we honest kind of funny in China but his lighting I find is a pretty good quality and made out of brass. Also inside the passenger cars converted to 3 volts.           Again thank you guys very much for the help you've given me Tom