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I am considering converting my 031 Tubular Track layout to Fastrack 036 (to accommodate modern Engines). However, I want to confirm I can manipulate, if needed, the pin out on Fastrack.

A specific example is what one may call an "S" configuration. As such, I have an 031 curved section of Tubular track turning "left" and immediately connected to an O31 section turning "right". This typically "messes with" the pin out on one end of the curved sections. With Tubular Track this is easily accommodated by removing or adding pins on one of the curved sections. Summary question - can a Fastrack section accommodate this configuration/modification?

Another "experience" related question is - fabrication of a Fastrack "Fitter" section or simply purchase smaller Fastrack sections to equal a "Fitter"?  In the 036 Fastrack layout design using the "SCARM" tool I require 3 each 1 3/8 Fastrack sections connected together to fill "the gap". Summary question - is purchase of the 1 3/8 Fastrack sections the least invasive and time consuming approach versus attempting to create a fitter section of Fastrack? (With tubular track I simply needed a miter box and hacksaw.)

Thanks for you comments and suggestions.

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It's possible to hack Fastrack for any length piece, it's been posted here a few times.  However, I have to agree with John H. in this case, I'd probably use the factory fitters.

Other than the fact that the greedy idiots at Photobucket stamp their logo all over the graphics, here's a thread describing the process of making fitters.

How To make Custom FasTrack Fitters

Because all Fastrack track pieces have pins in this configuration:

        IMG_1618

it is possible to install the next track piece in either direction so S curves are accommodated without removing any track pins.

I would definitely use three fitters in your case. As you can see from the Link GRJ put up it is quite possible to make custom-length Fastrack pieces it is a non-trivial undertaking.

Personally I like Fastrack and the track switches are pretty much bullet-proof but if you go with Fastrack I would recommend Lionel's "fix" for poor track-joint continuity. That is, bending the center-rail track-pins at a slight angle insures a good friction-fit with the adjoining track piece:

         IMG_3518

CAREFULLY (the pins are "pot metal" and will break if abused) bend in the direction of the screwdriver tip. I also SLIGHTLY crimp the hollow outer rail end to ensure a tight friction fit with the adjoining track pin.

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  • IMG_3518
  • IMG_1618

9318B58A-2835-4C84-B4C5-617BB1B75378Lew has good advice. A lot of the problems stem from Taking the track apart by hand. Some times that last shot to pull it apart puts a large angle on the remaining pin, spreading the rail again. I recommend using a utility knife to spread the track, working evenly from side to side to separate it. It's very hard to do it by hand without angling back and forth.

Then there is the one in the picture. Only used once; took me a while to find that problem.

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  • 9318B58A-2835-4C84-B4C5-617BB1B75378
Last edited by John H

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