Fastrack Problems - Need Help!

I run my trains on a carpet and was having similar problems, then I was told to create a bus wiring every 7-10 feet and it works great.

Can you try AC power to run the engines? It sounds like the new track and the carpet don't like each other and they are causing a lost/weak signal?

It sounds to me as though you may have some slightly loose connections on your track. This is probably made worse by being on carpet, as the track can flex up and down a lot more than on a firm surface.

 

The weight of an engine is probably just enough to break the connection, whereas that of a caboose is not.

 

The buzzing sound is most likely some electrical arcing at the bad connection. If you push down a bit as you run the caboose over the suspect area, you should be able to discover the track joints that are causing the problems. Once you have identified them, take the track apart in that area, and use a pair of needle nosed pliers or suchlike to crimp the track ends slightly and make a tighter join. The centre rail joint is the most likely culprit. Put it all back together and see if this has solved the problem. 

Loose joints are not common with FasTrack, but it can happen with any track system.

 

 

FasTrack maintains very good connections and has very little resistance. The problem is not the track.

 

Using multiple channels from the TIU to control a block will help. You could use two channels. The carpet central presents a problem, because the TIU is best located in the center of the layout (room).

 

The loop should be divided equally using the FasTrack 1 3/8" with the center rail jumper removed. There is also a 5" piece that has a center rail jumper.

 

Make power and ground connections at every 4'-8'.

 

Put DCS filters or magic bulbs at the two farthest connections from the TIU in each block.

 

SLPRR's page can assist you.

 

Finally, it is easy enough to get confused and misconnect the power connections when a piece of FasTrack is upside down. Check and confirm all of power and common connections are on the proper terminals.

 

A diagram of you wiring pattern and the location of the TIU, the number of channels being used etc. would be helpful for the DCS folks to assist you. Just sketch it and take a photo and add it to the post.

I wonder if you were to try to support the track with some cardboard if that would help.
I’m thinking a wider footprint might keep the track from rocking.

Hope this Helps..

K.C.

Have you tried cleaning the track? There might be a thin film on it, which is dropping the power to the engines causing shutdown. Stranger things have happened!

Try running a engine in conventional mode and see if you have the same issue.  You may need more feeds and not sure on using speaker wire.  I have all ways used a  solid 14 and 16 gauge wires.  Keep us posted if you do figure it out.  Also on your long straight sections of track are you using the 10 inch straights or did you use the 40 inch straights.  Less joints.  Fatsrack is generally bullet proof, even the connections.  Nick    

I've had the same issue, but I run conventional.  The FasTrack was buzzing.  It's due to poor connections as swapping out the track fixed it for me.  Try what Nicole said and at the buzzing joints go and tighten the connections.  I've used FasTrack for carpet for years, best there is for it, and only had this problem once with new track from a RTR set.  Because I had plenty of track I swapped out the pieces to fit my issue and haven't messed with it since.

I'll second some of the suggestions above.  I've run large fastrack layouts on carpet each Christmas and have had the same issues you mention.  Caboose test usually passes, engines still had problems.  I also believe it is the track connections. Crimping the track with a pair of pliers and / or placing something under the track joint in problem areas to keep it from flexing at the joints has usually solved the issue for me. I use the 10" sections so there are a lot of joints but the issues with fastrack have been minimal and easily fixed.

Thank you for everyone's response and suggestions.  First, I will try what Nicole and Sinclair suggested by crimping the track ends slightly and see if that improves things.  I am using 30 inch straight sections.  I have tried swapping out some sections since I have a whole case of the 30 inch sections.  That worked with some sections where there were problems, but not others.   I have cleaned the track too where problems existed, but the problems continued.  I will post an update after crimping the track sections.  Thanks again.  Ken

I had some success tonight and I believe the problem is solved.  I did as Nicole suggested above and crimped the center rail joint on the sections of track that were giving me problems.  In crimping the center joint, the track connection was made tighter.  The track must have had a very slight lose connection because by appearance it appeared each of the sections were tight.  I was able to run my trains with no more problems.  Being able to see my trains go around the loop with out stopping or losing sound took away the frustration I have been having for the past week. 

 

Nicole thank you for your help and everyone else that made suggestions.  I appreciate it. 

Ken

 

Thanks Ken. I'm happy to hear that you've solved the problem and are able to enjoy running your trains again.