Fastrack question for a beginner

The easiest is to use the Fastrack insulating track sections. They are about 1 3/4" long, the center rail has a break in it, and there is a small wire underneath that jumps the break. Install one at each end of the section you want to park on, and disconnect those small wires. Then run a wire to the center rail anywhere within that siding, and include an on/off switch between the track and the power supply. Then you can just turn off the section when you want to park, and flick it back on when you want to run on it. 

Keep in mind you will need to account for those extra track pieces elsewhere in your track plan. Lionel has lots of filler sections to work that out. 

Cut the center rails at the four points noted by the X, and run your switch to power either one of the two insulated sections, depending on which train you want to run.

This is exactly how my outer loop works on my layout (with tubular track). With tubular track, I simply used fiber pins to isolate the two sidings and then run a lock-on to each with a wire through a switch as the others suggest above. Only difference is that you'll need to (a) cut the center rails or (b) use an insulated piece of track. Same principle for yard sidings if you want to run them off the same transformer as the nearest mainline.

Jeff4643 posted:

 I have an 072. lay out with an inside loop and an outside loop. I have two remote switches one left one right.  I want to be able to run two trains not at the same time, so one is parked on the outside loop and one is running on the inside loop or what is parked on the inside loop and running on the outside loop. I know it can't be done but I can't figure out the blocking to do it. Again I remind you I'm very new at this so please keep your answer is not too technical if possible. Thanks 

I you have O72 switches, the 1 3/8" pieces with half-roadbed that fit on the end of the turnout and the thru already have the jumper wire and the cut center rail.

Remove the wire on the switches on both sides and using gunnrunnerjohn's diagram, connect those pieces together with a wire and run a second wire to a switch and track power.

This is only working with the center rail and the A or RED wire for power.

There was a recent thread a day or two ago about how to put a switch into the track to accomplish this. But, you can do it with the switch located anywhere. A simple on/off switch is all that is needed.

The insulating track sections are easiest, but the extra length will throw off the geometry of the inside loop.  So, the easier way to do it is to use the insulating sections on the outside loop, and cut the center rail near the switch on the inside loop. OR just cut the center rail at each end of both loops near where they join to the switches (like GRJ says..)

I  have the exact same setup for my Christmas trains. I removed the center pins from the fastrack at each end of the turnouts. Not to hard to do, flip the track over and bend up the silver tabs holding the track in place

lift the rail up and remove the pin, press the rail back in place and fold the tabs back down.

Do this on both tracks where you want to isolate the tracks. Wire it as GRJ's sketch shows.