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Since MTH doesn't seem to make the non-powered units any longer, I pick up any of the Santa Fe units when I can find them. I like to run multiple units, but don't always need the extra power, or want the hassle of MU "issues". I've picked up the Dash 8, Dash 9, and even an older Dash 9 tooled non-powered diesels. That gives me four Dash 8's and five Dash 9's now, but all my powered units are the -2 type with fixed pilots and Kadee couplers. Time to convert some dummies.

 

The Gap

The "GAP", the "CLAW" and scrawny hoses.

 

 

Front Frame

Both ends of the frame have to be cut. It's a different frame from the -2 fixed pilot models, but once it's cut, I used the same pilot mounting holes to attach the pilot with #4 x 1/2" screws. Once the pilots are removed, you can remove the claw without taking the trucks off the frame. The pilots also have to be cut or ground down in order to clear the frame. Since the pilots get screwed to the shell, they must clear the frame if you ever wish to remove the shell, not to mention mounting the pilots flat.

 

 

Rear Frame

This is the rear of the engine and you can see where the frame was cut (Dremel w/ fiberglass cutoff wheel) along with the pilot being ground down with the bench grinder to allow the clearance between the frame and the shell/pilot. A ton of back and forth between the grinder and the frame, taking off a little at a time. If you take off too too much material, you'll lose the mounting holes in the diecast pilot.

 

 

IMG_20140122_114659_268

Much time was spent fabricating these two spacers. .125" styrene was used to fill the "gap" between the shell and the pilot. A combination of the band saw, bench grinder, bench sander, Dremel tool, files, and emery boards were used to cut, sand, or remove material to the right shape and size.

 

 

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The spacer sits in place with "through" holes drilled for coupler and shell mount screws. A lot more time was spent figuring out the correct thickness for the coupler mounting pad in order for the Kadee to sit at the proper height. Turned out I used .100" and .080" styrene glued together to get the proper mounting height. The pilot has the screw holes for Kadee couplers already, so I just had to line them up, drill them out, and I also re-tapped the screw holes in the pilot for 2-56 1/2" screws.

 

 

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The front pilot was completely rebuilt with improved hoses, re-located grab iron on the plow, and of course filling in that huge hole in its face.

 

 

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This is a good time to drill new holes in the pilot for the full length handrails. Be patient as it's not easy drilling a #68 hole in this hard material.

 

 

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Pilot is in place, coupler is at the right height, but the handrails are still an eye sore.

 

IMG_20140122_163730_466

 

 

 

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A couple of the handrails broke when I tried to straighten them out (I think it's piano wire) so I had to make 4 new handrails total, the 2 on the nose, one of the long rear and one of the front front rails. All the others were straightened and re-bent without breakage. Paint touched up and it's ready for the weathering station to match its three sisters.   

Attachments

Images (10)
  • The Gap
  • Front Frame
  • Rear Frame
  • IMG_20140122_114659_268
  • IMG_20140122_114816_896
  • IMG_20140122_160818_403
  • IMG_20140122_160849_527
  • IMG_20140122_163521_562
  • IMG_20140122_163730_466
  • IMG_20140123_121117_068
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Nice job Laidoffsick 

 

I am doing my SD40-2's now, have four done, two more to go hope to have one more done today. I see the pilot mount is different on yours, on the SD40 there is no mount on the body in place. Pretty much did has you except for mounting the pilot.  The rear gets mounted to frame and the front gets attached to the front porch with counter sunk screws. I pull the floor of the porch off first, on early models it almost falls off.

 You guys gave me the information and encouragement to try this 

 

Clem

Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:

Filling that gap was a pain in the butt. It's 7 different individual pieces of styrene cut, sanded and glued in there. I sooooo wish MTH would sell those 2 rail pilots separately, it would of saved me hours of work.

Great job/Great tutorial, Doug.

 

One thought was you could get some Composimold material and make a mold of the spacer. That would allow you to use resin to make the fill plates for the pilots and save some filing.

Originally Posted by AGHRMatt:
Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:

Filling that gap was a pain in the butt. It's 7 different individual pieces of styrene cut, sanded and glued in there. I sooooo wish MTH would sell those 2 rail pilots separately, it would of saved me hours of work.

Great job/Great tutorial, Doug.

 

One thought was you could get some Composimold material and make a mold of the spacer. That would allow you to use resin to make the fill plates for the pilots and save some filing.

I thought about making a mold but it wouldn't do me any good. The Dash 8 is different from the Dash 9, and once I make the 1st one, the second is easy. The only thing I could do after having a mold is give them to others who want to do the conversion.

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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