hello all, I am trying to take the ugly handrails off my locomotive so I can put in full length handrails, but I cant seem to pull the old wiring out of the body. is there any method y’all use to pull the unrealistic hand rails out of the locomotives body?
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LoganUP, have you checked the inside of the shell to see if the end of the wire is bent at a right angle preventing it from pulling back out through the hole? I have seen this several times over the years. If so, you can carefully straighten it out...or nip it off.
One other thought is that there may be a drop of CA glue on the inside that needs to be removed so the wire can be pulled out of the hole. I’ve also seen this several times.
LoganUP1982 posted:
If I have the shell off, I use needle nose pliers to straighten the over bend inside holding them snug. But maybe just as often I snip the railing someplace in the middle and then manipulate the pieces until they work out.
Im making replacements I work from the top down, bending and test fitting as I go. Some people suggest trying to straighten the three-rail bend on the factory end rails to get something approaching full length, but I find that rarely is a better option than just making new ones of my own.
you can use a thin-blade screwdriver to loosen the stanchions for the end rails too- then replace with full-length rails. Bending the old ones out usually results in a broken piece of wire as the wire is brittle when re-bent. Plus using new wire just plain looks better than having a slight crease along the length. Good luck-
Thanks all!!!
when I get home from school I will try yall’s methods
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That looks great! Much better than the short handrails and large couplers, nice job!!
How do you make full length handrails for a GP type with one piece of wire all the way down the side of locomotive?
Clem
clem k posted:How do you make full length handrails for a GP type with one piece of wire all the way down the side of locomotive?
Clem
Maybe purchase them from MTH or Atlas for their 2-Rail Scale models.
Clem, you don't need to do the entire length. Cut the handrail in the middle of the last stanchion then bend your end handrail, threading it inside that same stanchion. Use a strong CA adhesive, super glue etc to secure it and the two join
Works perfectly and looks awesome.
Very nice work. Someday when I get the spare time, I have to do that on my engines!
Like Jeff says. For example:
The same procedure obviously works on the shorter rails on standard cab diesels, though I increasingly do replace the entire rail, like on this Dash 8-40B:
Now the end rails on this one were a little harder because the railing doesn’t stop at the innermost stanchions. It turns and extends all the way to the deck.
Logan, your railings and pilots look good. Keep up the good work.
RM
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What size wire are you guys using for the hand rails? I've got a pair of SD90MAC's I want to change over.
Matt, I use .025" brass wire available from Tichy Train Group- it works perfectly.
Jeff78rr posted:Matt, I use .025" brass wire available from Tichy Train Group- it works perfectly.
I am surprised you use such malleable wire. I would have thought you use Piano wire for its sturdiness.
prrhorseshoecurve posted:Jeff78rr posted:Matt, I use .025" brass wire available from Tichy Train Group- it works perfectly.
I am surprised you use such malleable wire. I would have thought you use Piano wire for its sturdiness.
Maybe he doesn't pick the locomotive up by the hand rails?
I use the same thing Jeff uses on his engines
i found some at hobby lobby to do the engine above
prrhorseshoecurve posted:Jeff78rr posted:Matt, I use .025" brass wire available from Tichy Train Group- it works perfectly.
I am surprised you use such malleable wire. I would have thought you use Piano wire for its sturdiness.
You don't need to use heavy wire as the engine doesn't get picked up by the handrails as Hot Water stated- the heavier wire is tough to bend. I presume you've not tried to do these handrails yourself?