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I just took delivery of the Lionel Gateman accessory, new in the box from the Lionel store.  Item # 681083'

I purchased the activation track from Trainworld, sku 81317, the manual says that is the correct package (page 4)

My layout is humble just 4x8 oval, but its the space I have to work with and I think it looks pretty good, after a year of work.

I can't for the life of me get the gateman to work on automatic.

My layout is powered by 2 units that come in the sets.  I have several.

The shack is lit up, and the light on the lock is red, noting the track is charged. 

I have the 2 short tracks at each end of the lock on fast track, making sure the rails with the 2 slits are on the same same outside rail, but when my train passes by nothing happens. 

If pressed manually he will pop out.

What else do I need to check?  Is my problem the power source?  I think the wall thing is 35 watts is but I have 2 in the line does that make 70? Or does it not work like that?  I'm a old guy (65) but new at this hobby.

When I bought this I did not anticipate any problems just plug in a play yes?  I worked on this all afternoon, and now my head hurts, someone pass me a beer.

Thanks for any help.

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Barrister,

This method of connection, i.e. the Fastrack activation trackset, provides power to one or two circuits.  Your postwar gateman (No. 145?) most likely has only one, but there were at least two versions of it.

Can you look at it and see if it has two binding posts/fahnstock clips for electrical connections?  Or does it have three?  This will tell us what we need to know in order to proceed.

Mike

I can chime in on this, I recently had a issue but mine was with using a plug n play signal bridge. I was getting all types of advise and with no luck. Getting super aggravated I chucked the activation track across the room…. Not my finest moment… but it landed upside down. It never clicked , but Lionel manufactured the track with the silver tab connecting the rails thus making the split rail isolation block into. Long story short check to see if Lionel removed the rail tab.  I purchased 4  of the activator track pack and three of the four of them were manufactured wrong.

Rick,

Absolutely.  But it appears that they're too busy with more important things prior to shipping out the product.

Good situation?  Definitely not.

Can we live with it?  We have to.  Unlike so many other markets, i.e. automobiles, personal electronics, housewares, appliances, etc., there's not enough competition left anymore in our market for any one player to use quality as a competitive advantage.  They can get away with poor quality -- and they are getting away with it.

Mike

Last edited by Mellow Hudson Mike

This method of connection, i.e. the Fastrack activation trackset, provides power to one or two circuits.  Your postwar gateman (No. 145?) most likely has only one, but there were at least two versions of it.

Can you look at it and see if it has two binding posts/fahnstock clips for electrical connections?  Or does it have three?  This will tell us what we need to know in order to proceed.

Mike



Mike, My 145 has three clips. Mark

Bama,

Do you have the remote switch and the activation track set connected at the same time?

In other words, don't do this:

7228781063250PEPAutoGateman_Page_2_cr_tu_ex2+

Instead do this:

7228781063250PEPAutoGateman_Page_2_cr_tu



M.H.M

I have the polar express gateman. Is there any reason /need to use the 3-pin pigtail as the gateman male connector connects directly into the activator track jack? I note also the wiring on the Fastrack activator is NOT as indicated in the polar express gateman instructions for use with the activator track. Should I just make the wiring connection changes ( I also have different color wires than thoes noted in the instructions) or does using the pigtail (if required) change the need to make the wiring changes? Thanks!

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