Stamp out layout boredom!

@Arnold D. Cribari posted:

"and I already have more trains than room to store them, and I hardly ever sell anything because I like what I already have, a lot."

Arnold

I haven't read all the posts on this particular thread as of yet, but Arnold, your post resonated loud and clear in my non-selling ears. I see others divesting themselves of their "stuff", but honestly, I like everything I have!! A kindred spirit indeed!

George

The HO guy's are into switching and spotting cars. They use index cards to see what cars that have to go to what industries. Never understood the system. It can be adopted to O. There is also a "Time Saver Layout" that is a switching game that can be adopted to O and incorporated into your layout. Have Fun.

Jim D.

Some Operating Accessories provide more train operating actions than others.  Here a few examples.

The Lionel 3482 Milk car and platform is very popular with all and especially kids. The Lionel 3482 Milk platform is so popular with the kids that visit my layout I have two Milk platforms installed. It lets them hand load up the car by hand with milk cans and then discharge them to the platform over and over.  Of course, the empty Milk car can go for train ride before being hand loaded again, a limited action.

By contrast the Lionel 3656 cattle car and platform cattle pen allow the cattle car to discharge the cattle to the cattle pen.  Then the cattle pen can allow the cattle to be loaded back into a cattle car.  The fact that both the cattle car and the cattle pen can both load and unload cattle make them the better accessory for train operations.  Trains, with each having a cattle car, can allow a cattle car to be unloaded to the pen and go on its way.  Then another train, with a loaded cattle car can go the cattle pen and unload their cattle.  Thus, the cattle pen and cattle cars can give several train actions at the cattle pen.

Another interesting accessory operation can involve two operating accessories and a dumper car.  I have a Lionel 6-12774 Log Loader Building that has been automated to dump logs remotely.  The building is at the mountain that is a source of logs for the log loader building.  The log loader building dumps logs to a Lionel 9303 Log Dumping car, or a Lionel 16664 Coal Dumping car, both of which are capable of dumping logs on the log platform of a Lionel 464 Lumber Mill.  The older Lionel 3451 Log Dumping car is too low to be used to discharge logs to my Lionel 464 Lumber Mill log feeding platform.  The Log Dumping car is transported to the Lumber Mill.  The Lionel 9003 Log Dumping car dumps logs on to the 464 Lumber Mill log platfrom.  Lastly the Lumber Mill saws the logs into Lumber and is discharged to the Log platfrom.

Log Loader discharges logs to log car, Log car transported to Lumber Mill by Train

Log Car discharges Logs to 464 Lumber Mill Platform

Lumber Mill saws Logs to Lumber

Charlie

Another accessory is the Lionel 362 Barrel Loader and the companion Lionel Barrel 3556 Unloading Car.  This car uses a vibrator motor to transport wooden barrels up and off the car.  The barrels can also discharged into a Lionel black plastic tray used for logs or on to a platform you can make.

What makes this car and accessory combination more fun is the fact one can load barrels on to the car and then unload the car back onto the barrel loader ramp.  The use of a second barrel unloading car on a second different train makes for lots of realist operation.  Train operations can happen between loading and unloading for more interesting, realistic railroading.

Picture shows Lionel Barrel 3556 Unloading car discharging Barrels to the Lionel 362 Barrel Loader

The Lionel Barrel Loader 362 is a long vibrating ramp that will load the barrels into the Lionel Barrel 3556 Unloading Car.

Charlie

Keep the ideas for improving train layout actions to keep up interest in operating the ole layout.

Charlie

Here's a way of changing your layout from a continuous loop to a point to point without severely altering your track. 

First option,  obtain 2 bumpers and attach them back to back on the straightest section of track.  Hooray!! You just turned your layout into a point to point and now you have a reason to use the direction button.

Second option,  use the 2 above bumpers and attach them to one track (back to back again) next to a passing siding.  CONGRATULATIONS,   you have just made an interchange where you can drop off a car on the siding and pick it up by a different road engine on the opposite side. You also have a situation where you can have a run through agreement between the 2 roads for continuous running.

SCENERY ENHANCEMENT:

Get a good sized piece of cardstock or thin plywood or such and paint both sides a light sky blue.  Attach some sort of footing so it will stand upright on its own.  Cut out a profile of your track work at the bottom and then place it on your layout in between the 2 bumpers.

HOORAY,   you've just created an "end of the line " or a scenic divider as what the 2 rail boys call it.

Now your train has a reason to turn around and head back to where it came from.

Bill T

Yes installing two bumpers will work on a loop if one uses, say a Lionel 50 Gang car with the car bumpers set up to reverse the car.  I do it that way every time I operate my gang cars and it is a good change of pace.

Thanks for calling attention to those neat little motorized cars.

Charlie

That lumber mill is amazing!  Where do the logs go?

My only operating accessory is an MTH operating freight platform.  The wiring setup for it is cumbersome and easily damaged, so it's just on static display.  

Mark

The lumber boards are stored in the saw mill building and that building also receives the logs from the log platform.  There is a loop of movie film that has metal projections that push the logs into the building and pull the lumber out of the building.   The loop of film is moved by a Lionel type vibrator motor.

Charlie

I will have to figure out how to integrate one of those into my layout. Thanks for the description.

Another way to add action and operations to a loop layout is to install a 2 trains on 1 track relayed system.   This can be done on initial construction or after the layout is installed.  It is easy to do on installed tubular track by cutting track at track pins, with a Dremel with cut off saw blade.  This can be done to intall outside rails for trigger section and middle rails to cut power to the train.  A 12 volt AC relay is then intalled to cut power on and off on the rails to stop a train and let get ahead of the trailing train and never let it catch the front train.

The link below shows how to build a 2 trains on 1 track system on page1, post 8d.

https://ogrforum.com/...fties-era-027-layout

My layout is made for switching and operation and has 31 switches and 18 uncoupling and operating track section and can operate 3 separate track diagrams and 3 or 5 trains at once.  The layout has dozens of operating accessories including a homemade turntable with pit.  A Table of Contents is on page 1, post 1.

Charlie

For me, the secret is to build models. I’ve got trolley models under construction in both O scale and 1/24, I’m working on a scratchbuilt boat model to work out the bugs for a potential full size boat build, I’ve got locomotives that need to be converted to fixed pilots and rewired for Blunami and battery power, and various other things cooking or in the dreaming about stage. I still buy things now and again—I’ve got a MTH Pioneer Zephyr coming, but building things keeps the interest level high…

Jeff C

Another way to add interest is to install lots of switches and un-coupling and operating track sections.  I did a good job on those as the layout has 31 switches and 18 un-coupling and operating track sections.  These keep the engineer or engineers busy moving trains, making up trains, adding and removing cars and working operating cars.

They switch and un-coulpling track locations can be seen in my earlier post which shows my two track diagram control panels.

Charlie

I agree that couplers in 3-rail O leave a LOT to be desired.  Unless you're prepared to invest the time like Bob did (and assuming you can find a source for the springs), you can't expect that any two random freight cars will couple or uncouple automatically.  Sad, but inevitable given the proliferation of manufacturers, eras, poor quality control, etc.  However: the lack of automatic coupling between cars ISN'T a deal-breaker for operations, as long as your sidings and yards are within arms' reach.  When my brother and I conducted regular operations on our old layout, we would give a car one "bump" at reasonable speed, or one pass over the uncoupling magnet.  If it didn't couple or uncouple on the first try, we would just close the knuckles and engage or disengage them by hand.  That might spoil the illusion for some, but IMO not more so than poking HO-scale Kadees with a wooden skewer or chopstick.

The key to varied operation is the track plan.  At minimum there has to be one station or siding to give the train a sense of purpose.  A yard with a lead long enough to double a cut of cars without fouling the main line; alternate routes, and the ability to run multiple trains simultaneously adds to the fun.  I like a lot of the suggestions here about "skyboards" (view blocks), hidden staging tracks, etc.  On my next layout I'm going to try hard to make some scenery modular on a removable base so that I can change up the look without rebuilding the whole layout.

A few months ago I posted about a train board game that I made where multiple RDCs simultaneously try to pick up and deliver passengers over a tangled network of track routes similar to Choo Choo Charlie's layout.  The concept, and "spaghetti bowl" track plans aren't necessarily prototypical.  But given the room-sized space many O-gaugers have to work with, a layout like this with a couple of command-controlled trains should keep a couple of youngsters (or oldsters) entertained for a while!  Good thread!!

Some 15 years ago, I was able to convert an underground garage to "basement" space which meant I could set up a 4' by 12' layout that had an outside loop. I added an inside loop using traditional Lionel 0 gauge track, It did get kind of boring running 2 trains round an round. After about a year I doubled the size of my setup by adding a second 4' by 12' section, separating them by about 14" for a roughly 9' by 12' setup but only the same 2 loops with one now running around the outer edge.  One Christmas, my wife surprised me with a Harry Potter set. Where to run it as one loop was for passenger and the other for freight.  I solved the problem by adding an upper level including a mountain for the original 2 loops to go under and the upper level on top.

I also fell into  deal for K-Line Supersnap tracks that were much better looking than the old Lionel 0 gauge ones, I bought quite a lot, which is lucky as they are now hard to find.  In a sense, your layout always can be improved. My biggest problem now is many accessories that need to be wired to work which means crawling under the layout. Unfortunately, at my age (80) this is not so easy.

@John F posted:

My biggest problem now is many accessories that need to be wired to work which means crawling under the layout. Unfortunately, at my age (80) this is not so easy.

Amen, from a 76 yr old! I'm facing the same issue right now. Not sure if enlisting the aid of my grandson will help, or potentially slow the situation

George

What I don't understand about those of you with display layouts, why are you not running two engines on the same track.  With advent of Legacy (2010) and DCS (2000) you can run two or more engines on the same track.  This increases the interest considerably. I have a modest layout 5x14 and regularly run two engines on the same track or do lash ups.  I use DCS which is very easy.  Even if you are clinging to conventional you can use relays to accomplish the same effect.  Lets get out of the one loop, one track mindset. 

@Yellowstone Special posted:

Add a freight yard for switching. 😉

Right on. You need to earn your "loop runs" by building the consist using switchers and spurs. You can't use your hands except to place cars on the spurs (or if there is a stubborn coupler connection). I have a small layout with multiple loops but really just one main one and its about 6 x 8. But there are spurs all over the place. Also all the switches and un-coupling buttons I need. Never get tired of switching cars and swapping cars and engines on and off the track. Also if you are bored you need to BUY MORE STUFF!

@Scott J posted:

Right on. You need to earn your "loop runs" by building the consist using switchers and spurs. You can't use your hands except to place cars on the spurs (or if there is a stubborn coupler connection). I have a small layout with multiple loops but really just one main one and its about 6 x 8. But there are spurs all over the place. Also all the switches and un-coupling buttons I need. Never get tired of switching cars and swapping cars and engines on and off the track. Also if you are bored you need to BUY MORE STUFF!

The idea of spurs is a good one. I have several spurs with 6 freight cars each and a caboose that are already coupled. I also have two spurs with coupled passenger cars. I simply back up an engine to the coupled cars and then the engine pulls out the 5 passenger cars or freight cars. The sidings are separately powered. Sometimes the coupling doesn't couple forcing me to manually attach the engine to the coupled cars. Unfortunately the many switches are 031 (K-Line supersnap)  limiting the engines to that curve. I have not been able to find 042 supersnap switches.

@John F and @GeoPeg, may I suggest adding enough wire to the accessory leads to reach to the edge of the layout? Feed the wires through a hole in the layout where the accessory is to go.  Pull the wires toward you with a yardstick or other implement. Then do your wiring at the edge of the table instead of under it, sitting in a chair. You could also mount a terminal strip on a piece of benchwork at the layout edge and let the wires meet there.

I second what Ken said about drilling a hole and pushing the wire to under the layout.  I then route the wire to the control panel and solder it there.  I have been doing this since my layout is up on legs.  When the layout was portable and only down on the floor 2 months a year, all wiring was done with the train boards leaning against a wall in the shop, making it easy to wire.

Another thing to do is make one common for the whole layout, including all transformers (track, switches, lights), outside rails, common on all switches, light, etc.  That way I just grab any common, including outside rails,  near say a new accessory, thus making running commons usually very short wires.

Charlie

I enjoyed reading suggestions on avoiding bordum with the layout.

One was "walking away for a while" and I have used that for 30 plus years as a necessarity.  The layout was portable and moved to many states and also used for only 6 weeks or so, on the den floor, as we did not have a room for it.  It spent over 10 months leaning against a wall in the shop.  Other interests and jobs where done including grass and yard maintanence, other hobbies, travel, etc. took up the time.  Limited interest in trains continued with attending train shows and planning and installing changes on the train layout that only could be maid on the underside of the layout.  Also, making and modifing cars and buildings, as well as few weeks make layout underneath changes were done.

Charlie

Yet another idea is to pick a layout theme. I grew up during the 1960’s and the space race. So a space theme related layout is an option.

Steve

I’m approaching 80. My solution to the wiring/crawling under the layout was to run 4 bus lines around the circumference of the layout. Ground,track power, fixed DC and variable DC.  These wires are run just inside the edge of the layout. My layout is around the wall and narrow so it’s pretty easy to fish feeder wires and accessories to the edge and connect to the bus lines with suitcase connectors.

Steve

Good idea on the space theme.  I have several space/military cars that shoot missiles and I run and shoot them.  I do not have room for space accessories to go with the cars.  I should have added that to the anti boredom list, those cars and others themed cars and trains with special cars is a neat and popular way to keep up train interest.

I have enough specific cars to make unit trains for cars like tank cars, milk cars, coal cars, flatcars, coal cars, stock or cattle cars, gondolas, auto-loaders, log cars. alumina covered hopper cars, Aquarium cars, Christmas Train cars, old west General engines and cars, and operating cars like giraffe cars (kids favorites) track maintenance cars, space and missile cars, wrecking train cars, enough operating cars to make a train with log cars that can be loaded with logs and discharged to the saw mill and make lumber.

Charlie

Narrative, narrative, narrative even the largest of layouts will turn into watching a dog chase its tail if that's all you are doing with it. Reading about the layout sounds like there isn't a shortage of trains, track, accessories or buildings  should be enough action for hundreds of stories.  what business will have 20 guys sitting around doing nothing if that shipment doesn't arrive? Who is waiting at the station for there granddad or sweetheart? get other people  involved  wife, family, friends.  

I like the idea of building in the living room with sidings going into the kitchen and dining area. With an intricate track plan, the Mrs/Ms of the house could load snacks onto flatcars and gondolas via a time-table. And while eating meals or just relaxing, trains would run on programmed schedules providing countless hours of train watching. Also, the idea of building above grade makes so much sense, plenty of natural light and no steps to go up and down. Plus, we could still have our basement layouts, with each layout having a different theme.

@dakw posted:

Narrative, narrative, narrative even the largest of layouts will turn into watching a dog chase its tail if that's all you are doing with it. Reading about the layout sounds like there isn't a shortage of trains, track, accessories or buildings  should be enough action for hundreds of stories.  what business will have 20 guys sitting around doing nothing if that shipment doesn't arrive? Who is waiting at the station for there granddad or sweetheart? get other people  involved  wife, family, friends.  

I think this nails it. If you don't have a job/jobs for your layout, loop running will get old in a hurry. By adding lights, spurs, sidings and scenery (that's a whole hobby by itself) you not only give trains something to do, you can also "fool the eye" into thinking that even a small layout is much bigger than it really is. You'll need trains you can control though (Atlas, MTH DCS and Lionel). My conventionals (WBB) are great to watch but travel too fast for switching (even after series wiring) and don't have electro couplers. Watching a consist run loops is more satisfying when it takes two hours to build from cars scattered over the layout.

Has anyone simply laid wires under the scenery instead of under the layout, ala real life underground lines.  I've considered it for the hard to reach areas using some kind of simple conduit (plastic or rubber hose) or just laying the wire and concealing it under the turf. And of course drawing a map for future use and repairs. It should be easy to entrench it in foam boards. Connections could be made at above board boxes or under removable buildings.   I too am getting too old to crawl under.   ET

My two pair of WBB F7s are completely suitable for switching after wiring the motors in series, with great slow speed running in mainline service. I also installed jumpers between powered and dummy so there are four pickups over about 18 inches, eliminating contact problems over switches, crossings, and the occasional dirty rail. Very helpful with very slow speed running.

I rarely use electro couplers since many of my older locos have none, and I can't remember the different button sequences for the ones that do. As mentioned above, I mostly do hand uncoupling using tabs or thumbtacks, just as I do hand uncoupling when switching on the 1:1 Wilmington & Western. Most switching uncoupling is not at the loco anyway.

I do wish I had a B&O steamer suitable for local freight that had a working front coupler. I understand there is a thread on this forum somewhere about how to install a regular coupler on the front of a steamer, but I haven't investigated this yet. Lot's of other fish to fry.

Also want to emphasize that operation is much more than local freight switching. I have yet to develop the local freight part of my operating scheme, but have plenty of operation with route switching of both freight and passenger trains, and terminal switching of passenger trains.

I have been reviewing old copies of Classic Toy Trains and O Gauge Railroading magazines and most show many home layout reviewed, with mostly loops that are not connected.  The emphasis was on the scenery, and not operation features.  These layouts are mostly for observing trains just looping through the great scenery showing the trains in very beautiful scenery but this style layout will quickly become boring to owner and frequent guests.

One easy way to add interest and operating options stand alone loops, is to make the loops interconnected, allowing the trains to be moved and operate on other loops.  If some sidings are included, some trains can be side lined, allowing one or two trains to be routed around the whole layout giving much more interesting train operation and variation of the trains operating routes.

Charlie